BigCol

Fine by me!

They’re yours…. I’ll drop you a message.

more pictures as would’ve maxed out!

fog light - carbon back box, carbon wedge and edging, inc lens, cabling and econoseal connector with classcarleds bulb £80 reversing light - carbon back box, carbon wedge and edging, inc lens, cabling and econoseal connector with classcarleds bulb £80 or £150 the pair rear lights; pair - carbon wedged back box, inc lenses, cabling and econoseal connector with classcarleds bulbs (indicator and stop/tail) £120 any +£10 postage (or collect from Chiswick, London W4) or the lot for £250 posted.

It was covered in a past Low Flying…. might be in the archive.

I had this late last year. I got a replacement gasket from Burton. Fitment as you say, is easy. I also tightened/torqued it down as per this: I haven’t driven it much since, so can’t comment on its efficacy…

@graearea…?

Coolant is available is both concentrated (ie needs diluting) or ready to use (so doesn’t); as far as I know they will be equally effective. Think there are discussions elsewhere regarding the benefits of orange/red and blue coolants… 😳 (the only silly questions are the ones you don’t ask!)

According to Caterham, you only need a grommet on the inside wing - was always thus (well, since 2013 when I built my car). As above, many of us disagree and add another one (or an equivalent) to the rear wing too.

Nothing to do with me - I’ve got one and don’t need another but given that as I post there have been no bids, this could be a bargain for someone…

In retrospect, it was a rite of passage to have succeeded!

You’d think they’d do that wouldn’t you…? Guess what, amongst other things you’d have thought they’d check, my post-PBC car failed its initial IVA for… 🤦🏻‍♂️

ain’t that the truth… 🤔 but needs the benefit of hindsight to appreciate this being the case! and so’s that! 🤔 bar putting the diff in single-handledly, it was the worst bit of the build - a right bitch of a job!

Uncle Albert has retired, is well and enjoying two new knees!

Oh yes! Last time we were there, our Aussie mate served me a bottle upon arrival and later we visited a Bottle Shop in St Kilda (outskirts of Melbourne) and they had ten different Fuller’s beers, including Vintage Ale cheaper than the Brewery Shop in Chiswick were selling it for!

I did suggest that one of us had an Australian wheel (and car?)…

One of us has an Australian wheel I guess!

My steering wheel has the holes as per the apices of a Give Way sign, rather than a Warning road sign…. is that the case with yours too?

Last time I fitted Econoseal connectors, I bought spare set of ten of each of connector pins, female equivalents and wire seals just as contingency. Was glad I did! Given they’re <£4 between them, would recommend you do too for the peace of mind!

The crimping tool I use, from Polevolt who also supply the connectors, is linked in the first post. I got a set of car terminal de-pinning tools (various shapes and sizes on a key-ring) from Amazon. The ones I bought are no longer available but there’s a wide choice there or on eBay.

A very thin, guess 1, maybe 2mm, wide tool inserted here along the edge of the connector pin will release it and it can be pulled out undamaged.

Yes please…

I have just fitted some third-party rear LED lights to my 7 and terminated the wires with Econoseal connectors to match those of the OEM lights. It’s been a while since I fitted any of these connectors so I had to “relearn” how to! Initially I wrote this as an aide memoir of what I had forgotten last time (and would probably again!) but thought it might be a useful guide for anyone doing this for a first time (how can this become a Technical Guide?) I use a specialised Econoseal crimp tool like this one and also sourced the connectors from Polevolt. The Econoseal connector consists of four parts - wire seal, connector pin, connector body and yellow seal. This is what you do… put any necessary grommets on cable strip cable outer so ~25-40mm of wire shows put wire seals on wires - wider bit on first strip ~4mm of insulation from each wire move wire seal up so it is by the end of the insulation squeeze outer tangs of connector pin so roughly parallel, this enables it to sit in the tool better put connector pin into crimp tool - the tangs should be within the tool and connector pin emerging to the right squeeze crimp tool so connector pin is just held holding crimp tool in right hand, insert wire so small diameter bit of wire seal is within the connector pin (no photo as I only have two hands!) squeeze tool until ratchet releases connector pin’s tangs should neatly grip the wire seal and the uninsulated bit of wire insert the connector pin into connector body with the crimped bit away from the lumpy bit on the connector body (or with the plain bit facing the lumpy bit if you prefer) the connector pin should click softly in place with the wire seal sealing the back of connector might need some minor fettling so connector pins align insert yellow seal bit so it clicks in place (no photo! 🤦🏻‍♂️) sorted - job’s a good un!

At the Yeading test centre for mine, they said they couldn’t use the rollers as the sump would ground getting the car on, so they “road” tested it - and identified that the rears locked-up first.