Chris W

Bruce Try here Maplin: flashing LED @ 83 pence. Just connect to the battery and a switch - nothing else needed. or here (which includes the led & dashboard fitting @ £2.29) here Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Chris What's the voltage (with ignition ON) between the sender wire and ground? Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Noddy One more thing. Mick's circuit is great but it will not work if you have the original Caterham MBE ECU as that ECU doesn't contain the fan switching pin. With an MBE you will need to use my circuit or similar. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Noddy If you click on my website below, there's a circuit diagram for a fan-override switch. If it's not clear enough on the website, please email me and I'll mail you a proper copy. The circuit incorporates an LED on the dash which illuminates whether you choose to switch the fan on manually or if the fan comes on automatically via the temperature sensor. Chris (edited for typo) 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 3 Mar 2006 23:53:25

Chris The gauge will show full deflection if the sender wire is short-circuited to ground. If you have a multimeter, pull the wire off the sender and (making sure the wire is clear of the chassis) measure the voltage on the sender wire with the ignition ON. If it reads zero volts, then the gauge has a short-circuit inside it OR the sender wire has broken insulation somewhere and the bare wire is touching the chassis. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Even a battery with a cut-off switch WILL still self-discharge and should be kept on a conditioner unless the 7 is run reasonably frequently a couple of times each week. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Paul Note that battery conditioners are designed to keep a fully-charged battery fully charged. They are of no practical use in actually charging a depleted battery. Once charged on a normal charger, the battery can then be left connected to the conditioner. I leave my conditioner on all year round. (I have the Draper version sold in Halfords but there are several on the market). Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Steve Look at my website photos (click below). I drilled and tapped the oil sump plug to install a sensor for the oil temperature gauge. No problems. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Yeah but I managed to lose over 20kgs in MY weight over the last year so I'm virtually even on the deal. 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Voltmeter, ammeter & oil temp I find the most useful additional. All 3 have the potential to enable one to spot issues arising before they become real trouble. I added a voltmeter and ammeter on the dash with an oil temp gauge, clock and vacuum gauge mounted over the tunnel. Click below to see photos of the installation. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

If you join the wires together, the instrument panel fuse will blow when you switch on the ignition. One end of the alternator light is connected to the ignition and the other to the alternator. With the engine off, the alternator-end connection is effectively just a route to ground so the alternator lamp lights. Once the engine turns and the alternator produces volts, both ends of the alternator lamp are at the same voltage (~13.5v) so the lamp extinguishes as their is no voltage difference across it. On most installations, the initial small flow of current through the alternator lamp is used to provide some initial magnetism in the alternator field coils in order to kick-start the alternator into life. Thus, removing the alternator lamp can cause all manner of problems! Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Paul A "normal" type is fine. Unless the battery is way down, only leave it connected for a few hours. An absolutely discharged battery only needs 24 hours of charging. It's worth buying a battery conditioner as well if the 7 is only used occasionally as car batteries do not like being left in a discharged state; it shortens their life. This is a battery charger that only delivers a 100mA or so and means that it can be left connected 365 days a year. Available from Halfords et al for about £15. It is not the same as the "trickle chargers" which you will also see advertised. These latter devices are like normal chargers albeit with a lower charging rate but not low enough to be left on permanently. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

The major benefit is from electrically disconnecting the alternator because the engine is having to turn the alternator against what is known as the "back EMF". In simple layman terms, it's like trying to pull two magnets apart, which takes some considerable force. This effect only occurs when the alternator is producing an output. Unfortunately, disconnecting the warning light won't create the right conditions for this in the vast majority of alternators. In theory, the current through the warning light is used to "kick-start" the coils inside the alternator to produce some initial magnetism which allows the alternator to start producing output. Once the alternator is up to a reasonable speed, it self-generates the necessary larger current to keep on going and produce full output. (This is not perpetual motion BTW because the engine is doing work in turning the alternator). What happens in reality however, is that most alternators have some permanent residual magnetism in them which is sufficient on its own to kick-start the alternator once the alternator gets up to some middle range revs. Ergo, if you simply disconnect the warning light, the alternator will still kick into life the first time you rev up. So actually, it turns out the best way to prevent the alternator's turning is by removing the belt. This will definitely prevent any output from the beast and thus nullify any opposing force on the engine. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

I usually go to Wendover most years. Remind me nearer the time and we can exchange details. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Where's your narrowboat Tom? I have a boat on the Grand Union near the Tring summit. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Phil It could be that your switch isn't actually switching properly to each position. ie: although it mechanically moves, it might be electrically corroded inside. You should have 3 wires connected to the back of the switch. Normally these are green (+12v input), green/yellow (slow speed) and green/grey (fast speed). There will also be a black and a red/white on either side of the switch but these are only to control the illumination of the switch. Having pulled the 3 wires off, switch on the ignition and touch the green wire to the other 2 wires in turn. If the heater runs at two different speeds depending on which wire you connected the green one to, then the heater itself is working perfectly and the switch is at fault. If the same symptoms persist as before, ie: the heater only runs at one speed, then the heater resistor or an internal connection in the heater is the most likely cause. I suspect you will find it's the switch. If it is, spray wd40 inside the switch and flick it through its various positions many times. This may get it working again. Be careful not to touch the green wire to the chassis while you have it dangling (!) or else you will blow the heater fuse (fuse 2, 10A) Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Yep, the Maplins one is here but not many people will spend £20 for the odd joint or two - unless it's the other kind of joint! Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Bri You didn't read my post properly. A crimped joint is great PROVIDING you have a professional crimping tool. Most people will buy a standard off-the-shelf jobby which will NOT make a reliable joint. Try it for yourself with a normal crimping tool; one good tug and the wire comes out of the crimp. The problem on the cheaper tools is that one can't get enough pressure on the crimp as it relies on hand strength rather than a geared and levered ratchet. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Most solder sold now is lead-free. It's becoming increasingly difficult to buy solder with lead in it. Mainly tin and copper now. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

I disagree about crimping. Soldering gives a very strong utterly reliable joint if you twist the ends of the two wires together so that the solder is not acting as a mechanical bond as well as an electrical bond. Crimping is reliable IF you have a proper (usually expensive) crimping tool. Most people have the toolbox specials which cannot be relied upon to give a strong consistent joint. I always solder all my connections. You could also use a terminal block (screw connection) to connect them and cover with heat shrink. This is probably the easiest reliable method. Ensure you discover why the cable is currently chafing or I guess it will happen again. The yellow/green wire is indeed the fuel pump wire and runs between the live side of the fuel pump and one side of the fuel cut-off inertia switch. The other side of the cut-off switch also has a yellow/green wire and goes to fuse 13 (15 amps). 17 amp wire will be OK. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Steve The numbers you came up with for the volts mean that your battery is in great condition (or at least was!). With the alternator functioning the voltage across the battery should increase to around 14v even at idle. The 9v reading on cranking means that the internal resistance of your battery is very good (ie: very low). If one assumes that the starter motor is drawing around 200-300 amps to turn the engine then the internal resistance is 9/200 to 9/300 ohms or around 30 to 45 milliohms. Ergo, don't junk the battery. I don't know what is wrong with the alternator, other than a faulty diode pack would be a good guess. If you have an ECU then the alternator voltage regulator is normally contained within that. Although you have swapped alternators occasionally, has anyone checked the alternator regulator in the ECU? Is the wire OK to the ECU from the alternator? Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Sandy I have fitted a clock along with an oil temperature gauge and a vacuum gauge to the dash in a 3 meter frame (that's 3 meters not 3 metres ❗) click on my website below to see photos (page 2 , last photo) Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 18 Feb 2006 03:34:39

Kevin That's exactly how I thought it would be. Use ric's instructions, but where he says brown wires, use the WHITE wires instead. The red/white is the same as in his instructions. The other method of achieving this with less wires is to: 1. Disconnect the red/white wire from the ignition switch and connect it to one side of the BRSB 2. Run a wire from the other side of the BRSB and connect it to any of the white wires at the ignition switch. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

With the MEMS ECU immobiliser, you can push EITHER button on the plipper 4 times and you'll hear a series of clicks. The immobiliser will now be fully functional again. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

ric With respect, your wiring is correct in that it will cause the BRSB to function BUT your instructions as written mean that one side of the BRSB is connected to the brown wires whether or not the ignition switch is closed. The brown wires are normally DIRECTLY connected to the battery (or should be). It may be that your wiring is different in that the brown wires are connected AFTER the ignition switch, in which case your instructions (for your car) are correct. Normally the brown wires connect to the battery side of the ignition switch and WHITE wires carry power from the switched side of the ignition switch to the ignition circuits. It may be that cars with the VX engine have different wiring colours but I think it's worth double checking as otherwise the car will start everytime the BRSB is pushed regardless of the position of the ignition switch. This is a potential danger in that an accidental touch on the BRSB could career the car forward without warning if in gear. Kevin If your ignition barrel has white and brown wires, it is normally the WHITE wires which are connected AFTER the ignition switch. Check with a meter which wires on your car have 12v on them at the ignition switch when the ignition switch is ON and have no power on them when the ignition switch is OFF. If it turns out to be WHITE wires (or even some other colour) use ric's instructions but connect to the ignition-switched wires instead of the brown ones. If indeed it turns out to be the brown ones then use them but make sure you know which are the direct battery connection wires and DO NOT use those. I thought this was worth pointing out as the consequences of getting it wrong could be potentially tragic. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 10 Feb 2006 17:37:28