Chris W

🙆🏻 😬 😬 😬 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

John The short answer is yes; I could integrate almost any other system into the design. However, I have no experience of actually designing these into circuits so would have to do some reading up and learning about the different systems available. I have no doubt that I can do it but I don't know at this stage what the price or timeframe impact would be. I would guess that the cost would go up significantly, but I will look at being able to add it at a later stage to an existing CatStart. That way people have a choice as to whether to spend the extra or not. Obviously, the existing immobiliser is not affected by the CatStart and so will still inhibit starting if activated. Cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 12 May 2006 10:30:56

I have modified the CATSTART software to give the following additional functionality. By means of an internal jumper selection, you will now have the choice of: 1. The first push switches the ignition ON immediately (great for track days etc) or 2. The first push needs to be held down for 3 seconds before the ignition switches ON. This gives a measure of security against some drongo in a carpark or your kids etc pushing the big red button. Nothing will happen unless the switch is held down for the required 3 seconds. Hope that appeals Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

I will be compiling a list of all those who want the CatStart tomorrow and will be bulk buying the components in order to meet the price. Let me know by tomorrow if you want one (if you haven't contacted me already) as once I have made a batch I shall have to put a slight price hike on onesy-twosy quantities. Cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Hi Chris It does the same as if you were using an ignition key in that situation, viz: the engine stalls but the ignition stays ON. Holding the button depressed for a second will operate the starter. You don't have to cycle through the whole process again. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

RJ Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Mike I'm not familiar with the internals of the Stackdash as I don't have one myself. However, the CatShift just needs an input from the tacho feed to operate. So if the tacho has pulses going into it like the non-Stackdash version, then it will operate fine. The magnitude of these pulses doesn't matter because my circuit converts the input pulses into a the shape and the level (voltage) it needs in order to take a reading. The CatShift can cope with normal or wasted-spark (double speed pulses). There is a simple internal selector switch for the appropriate ignition version. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

GJT see you there.. John - thanks for the vote of confidence *thumbup* Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Hi Stu I could do them all on one board but I would have to redesign and layout a whole new PCB which is very, very time consuming. If enough people wanted it that way, it would be worth doing but otherwise I would have to charge a bundle just for the many hours it would take to redo it. Cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

I have listed some cool electronic gadgets for the 7 which I have designed on the "For Sale" section. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

I have designed a few gadgets for the 7 which some people have already purchased and fitted. I am not doing these commercially so the quantities I can make are limited to a couple of dozen. The price does not reflect the time I take to design and make them, but they are things I have made for myself and I'm happy to do a few for fellow club members as I quite enjoy building them. All items can be fitted to a fixed or Q/R wheel where applicable. All the circuits employ microprocessors so are very sophisticated and reliable in the functionality they offer. They are all about 5" x 2.5" x 1.5" in size (except the gearshift lights - see below)and come with easy to fit instructions. You don't need to be an electronics whizz-kid to fit them. 1. CatFlash: Self-cancelling wheel or dash-mounted indicator switches with audible buzzer (can be switched off if required) and user settable time-out. One push ON, one push OFF or self-timeout. 2. CatStart: A single (big red) button (not wheel mounted). First push gives ignition ON, second push gives ignition OFF. A second push which is held for 1 second will operate the starter motor and will continue to crank until the button is released. When the engine is running, a push will switch OFF the engine and the ignition. If the engine stalls, the ignition will remain ON until you either push for OFF or push and hold to recrank the starter. Also, by means of an internal jumper selection, you have the choice of: a). The first push switches the ignition ON immediately (great for track days etc) or b). The first push needs to be held down for 3 seconds before the ignition switches ON. This gives a measure of security against some drongo in a carpark or your kids etc pushing the big red button. Nothing will happen unless the switch is held down for the required 3 seconds. 3. CatDip: a single button (wheel mounted if desired) which will flash the mainbeam headlights just like the normal flasher switch when pressed until it is released. If the headlights are switched ON, pushing the same button will now toggle the headlights between DIP and MAIN beam just like the standard dip/main switch. Two functions in one convenient button. 4. CatShift: Gearshift lights for normal or wasted spark ignition. Unlike the commercially available ones, this unit has 9 LEDs which can cover ANY range of revs eg: 4000 to 7000rpm or any larger or smaller range. The LEDs are arranged in 3 groups (3 green at the low rev end, 3 yellow over the middle rev range and 3 red at the top rev range). The user can also select by means of a switch that ,when all 9 LEDs are illuminated at the top end, they all flash together to warn the driver he/she is approaching maximum revs. A brightness control is also fitted as the unit uses hi-intensity LEDs for easy viewing in daylight but which need dimming at night to avoid snow blindness! The unit has only 3 wires to connect and comes in a small black box about 5" x 1" x1" which is fitted on the top of the dash in line of sight behind the steering wheel. Several club members have this unit already. Price for any of the above is £68 with the exception of the CatShift which is £100 (plus p&p or pick up from my home or club meeting). For anyone who lives near me (South Bedfordshire) I am also happy to fit any of the above at nominal cost. If anyone is interested, please email me on chris@cwyles.freeserve.co.uk Cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 11 May 2006 19:45:57

For the avoidance of doubt, the circuit will come supplied with male spade connectors which will mate with your existing ignition switch and/or big red starter button wiring. ie: you pull the wires off the existing set-up and simply plug them into the new CatStart. You can even use your existing big red starter button as the new combined ignition/start/off button if you wish. If you ever want to swap back (if you sell the car for example) simply replug the wires back to their original positions. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Nev Yes, wiring loom is immaterial too Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

yep... immobiliser type is immaterial. I'll put you on the list. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

I am just designing a circuit for a fellow club member which will be a single button with the following functionality. State_____________Functionality Engine OFF: push button once and ignition comes ON Ignition ON: push button once and release within 1 second and ignition goes OFF Ignition ON: push button and hold for 1 second and the starter motor engages and remains cranking until button is released. Engine ON: push button once and the engine and ignition switch OFF The button can be steering wheel (fixed or Q/R) or dashboard mounted. I have dubbed the circuit "CatStart" If anyone 's interested, I shall be building a batch soon if I can get enough people who want one. say 10 - 20 people. The price will be around £65 Let me know Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 10 May 2006 11:17:13

Jono The fault is one of 3 things: 1. The headlights switch is malfunctioning. You should get +12v on the BLUE wire at the back of the headlights switch when you switch it ON to headlights. This wire feeds the relay input. 2. The centre terminal wire (BLUE) on the dip/main switch is broken/fallen off/corroded. You should have +12v there with the headlight switch ON. (This wire comes from the output of the relay). 3. The headlight relay is malfunctioning or misseated. When you switch on the headlights switch (to headlights) you put +12v from the BLUE wire of the headlights switch on to the coil of the relay and thereby switch the relay ON. The relay then puts +12v directly from the battery on to the centre wire of the dip/main switch. So if the dip/main centre terminal is not receiving +12v or it's broken off then nothing will function other than the flasher switch (see below). The headlight fuses are on the output side of the switch and would both have to blow to kill dip and mainbeam. (The mainbeam fuse at least is working otherwise the mainbeams wouldn't come on with the flasher switch). The flasher switch, on the other hand, receives its power directly from the battery (a brown/blue thickish wire). So that's why your mainbeams function when you hold the flasher switch ON as that power doesn't come through the headlights switch/relay/dipswitch combination. So, in summary, it is either the headlights switch playing up, the centre terminal of the dip/main switch playing up or the relay has failed/misseated. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

The high flashing rate on the other bulbs is an electronic built-in indication that the flasher unit cannot "see" all the bulbs. This means that either the bulb is blown and/or that there is an incomplete circuit on the "failed" bulb, ie: either 12v is not reaching it or the earth return on that bulb is bad. It obviously can't be the fuse since the other bulbs are functioning. Since you have replaced the bulb, clearly that isn't the fault. Check for a pulsing +12v on the feed to the bulb; if none exists, there is a fault in the wiring to the bulb on the positive side. If there is a pulsing +12v, then the earth return MUST be the fault. (Don't forget to switch on the ignition and switch on the indicators on that side whilst checking) Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Hi Myles The 3 wires are as follows: 1. The "alternator sensor" (red/white) is the connection to the regulator inside the ECU. 2. The charging connection to the battery (very thick red cable) 3. The connection to the ignition light on the dashboard (yellow/brown) All the "returns" are done through the chassis except the ignition light which has an ignition-switched supply on one side of it and is earthed through the windings of the alternator to make the light come on with the engine OFF. Once the engine is ON, and the alternator is producing the correct volts, the windings are no longer earthed, so the ignition light has the same volts on both sides of it and consequently extinguishes. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Myles The alternator output drops after running a while because the initial charge removed from the battery after starting is substantially replenished and the battery voltage rises as a consequence. A typical alternator will give out exactly what you are seeing. After starting and running a short while, the alternator volts will be in the high 13's (so 13.8 v is absolutely normal). if you have a battery that requires a higher charging voltage (you indicated around 14.5 - 14.7v is required) then you will need a different alternator to the standard Caterham one. I don't know which model 7 you have but "modern" ones have the regulator inside the ECU and hence the alternator output voltage is not user tweakable. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

The double-rate flash is a design feature built into the electronics of the flasher unit. Its purpose is to indicate (no pun intended) that a bulb has blown. The circuit can't differentiate however between a blown bulb and a bad connection - it just sees no bulb. So if the bulb itself is working, which you have stablished by swapping over the bulbs, then the issue is definitely a bad 12v feed to the bulb or an earthing problem. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

What a neat idea. If it doesn't happen to have this functionality, I could design a circuit to do this. Any interest? Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 28 Apr 2006 10:04:52

Adam If you have an ignition relay (which you will have on a standard '99 Roadsport) then, as I have pointed out before on Techtalk, the 7FAQ is incorrect in stating you need 25 amp wire. The current to the relay through the starter button will be a maximum of about 100mA (ie: any general equipment wire will suffice). While there's no electrical detriment to using 25A wire where it's not needed, it is physically much thicker and stiffer which means it's harder to manipulate, costs more and takes up more room under the dash. The starter relay is not shown on the Caterham circuit diagram because it's inside what's known as the MFRU (Multi-Function Relay Unit) which is the black box about 4"x3"x2" which sits on top of, or under, (depending on year) the large metal ECU unit. These are usually situated right near to the battery. Your circuit diagram just shows the two MFRU connectors with pin numbers. (My website contains photos and a circuit diagram of the inside of the MFRU - click below). Bottom line - your switch will be perfect, you don't need another relay and you can use thin, low-current equipment wire. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

My suggestion on the electrical side, always carry a small bag of spare fuses, a small cheap multimeter, some electrical tape and a few tie-wraps. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Tom My number plate light is earthed directly to the chassis via the mounting bolts. You may have some corrosion on those bolts so I suggest taking the number plate assembly off the car and giving it a general clean (and the chassis) around the mounting area. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Were you considering then thanking the people who hadn't replied?? 😬 😬 😬 😬 Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here