Chris W

Chappers How do you come to this conclusion? I agree that the Banner battery is slightly heavier by 4lbs (1.8kg) but its performance and price either meets or exceeds the battery you highlight, viz: * Banner capacity 30AH @ the 20 hour rate vs 19AH for the Gel * Banner cold cranking current 240Amps vs 265 for the Gel (only a 10% difference) * Banner reserve capacity 40 minutes vs 27 minutes for the Gel * Banner price £40 or less vs Gel price of £98; that almost 2 1/2 times more expensive. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

The 3 (identical relays) are: Horn, Headlights and a (so-called) "Hazard" relay. The large 4th one is the indicator flasher circuit. The "hazard" relay really should be better named an "indicator" relay because its function is to detect whether the ignition is ON or OFF and to allow the indicators to function if the ignition is found to be ON. It actually has nothing to do with the hazard functionality. The hazard switch simply bypasses the "indicator" relay and applies power to all 4 indicators regardless of the ignition status. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Mark Standard battery is 30 AH & 240 amps cold cranking. Banner type 530-34 see Banner site here Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Norman You are quite correct in thinking the solenoid is a relay. It is, BUT because it has to pull in a massive pair of contacts to the starter motor it requires a large magnetic field (ie: a heavy duty coil) to achieve this. As a result, the solenoid draws a large current of around 20 amps. That means that a switch that directly switched the solenoid ON would have to be able to cope with this large current also. That's why there is (usually) an intermediate relay which is capable of switching in excess of 20 amps but which only requires a tiny current itself to close its contacts (~100mA). So the starter switch itself can therefore be a lower rated device. The ECU fuse (which used to be specified as a 20A version) was uprated by Caterham to 30A. This is because if the solenoid gets some dirt inside, or is hot, it can stick slightly inside (due to tight mechanical tolerances) and then requires an even larger current to overcome the increased physical resistance. Hence a 20A fuse would often blow in this situation. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

If you got a beep then it's OK. The continuity checkers won't beep if the resistance is more than about 200 ohms Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

oops 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Tyrone I can't say for certain that it will have blown the alternator but I would be surprised if it hadn't. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

My speedo overreads too compared to the GPS reading. It is pretty accurate (within 1mph) @ around 30mph but reads progressively high as one goes faster till an indicated 80 is only around 72 actual. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

If you undo the positive battery lead while the engine is running you WILL goose the alternator because the regulator detects the battery voltage has fallen (because there's no battery) and raises the alternator voltage to compensate. The alternator output can reach 200v instantaneously then the regulator diodes burn out. Never disconnect the battery while the engine is running. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Adil Check whether your steering wheel boss and column are actually earthed. I wanted to use that property for one particular circuit and found that my steering wheel (Q/R type) is floating about 5K ohms above earth. For my CatFlash circuit (steering wheel mounted indicator switches) I use a small multicore flat telephone cable between the steering wheel and the circuit unit itself. I tie-wrap it loosely underneath the steering column. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Good idea Ben. I should have thought of adding a "Lights left-ON" buzzer when I designed the CatDipper and it didn't occur to me. I could add the functionality and reprogram the microprocessor for no additional cost if that would make it more attractive to people. So now the CatDipper would also incorporate a buzzer which sounds if the ignition is OFF but the headlight switch is ON. ie: a lights-On warning. Does this appeal to anyone? I would still need a minimum of 10 orders to make it worthwhile building. Let me know folks otherwise I'll dump the project. Cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

1. 12.4 is slightly low and would indicate a battery with approx 75% charge (full charge is 12.6v) 2. A drop to 11.4v with the mainbeams on is very large. The voltage should stay substantially the same. 3. 10.9v with the key held in the crank position, but presumably NOT cranking, is also very low. Running the maths, both 2. & 3. above indicate an internal resistance in the battery (or in the connections to the battery) of about 80 milliohms. The calculation comes up the same in both cases. A normal battery would show about 10 milliohms, so the difference is significant. So either the new battery has a problem OR, probably more likely, one or both of the main battery cables is not tightened correctly or has some corrosion. Check both of these latter possibilities first. If that comes up blank, then suspect the new battery has a problem. A good battery and connections, in my opinion, would only result in a volts drop of about 0.15v with the mainbeam on and around 0.2 volts with the key held in the crank position but not actually cranking. On real crank, the battery voltage should stay above 9v if the battery is good. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Hi Zak Email me off-line and I'll give you a one-off price. Cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Ah, that's because there's actually just another car battery inside it in the guise of a battery charger OR, and read the label carefully, it will charge your original battery quickly so that the ORIGINAL battery can start the car. I have noticed a few makes of "battery charger" recently using wording that suggests you can start the car from it, when in reality that's not the case strictly. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

I have designed a new gadget for the 7. See the "For Sale" section here Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

The latest gadget I have designed for the 7 is the "CatDipper" and it works as follows: At the moment you have 2 toggle switches to control the headlights, viz: 1. a spring-loaded flasher switch which works all the time and (believe it or not) flashes the mainbeams on demand, and 2. A dip/mainbeam switch which, when the headlight switch is ON, changes the headlights from dip to main or main to dip depending on its position I have now designed the CatDipper which does away with the dip/main switch and uses the spring-loaded flasher switch to carry out both functions, as follows: 1. If the headlight switch is OFF, the flasher switch acts as a flasher switch, flashing the headlights at all times on demand when flicked 2. If the headlight switch is ON, the flasher switch will toggle the headlights between dip and main at each flick of the switch. From personal experience it is so much easier to have the one switch to reach for instead of two. It makes the whole operation so much simpler at night when continually changing from dip to main whilst driving. I have designed it such that when the headlights are first switched ON, they will always come on in the dipped position for added safety. The unit uses connectors of opposite gender to the present set-up together with appropriate colour coding so fitting takes all of 5 minutes. Just unplug the wires from the switches and plug them into the colour-coded CatDipper. Job done. It's a doddle. The circuit uses a microprocessor for reliability and precise operation. The unit is approx 4"x2"x1.5" and can be easily hidden behind the right hand panel near your right knee. I can only make these for the price if I get at least 10 orders so if enough of you want them, I will make a batch. Price is £68 + £5p&p or collect from my home if convenient (nr Dunstable, Beds.) Let me know Cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 5 Jun 2006 11:59:26

It sounds like the symptoms of a low battery to me too. WARNING: you cannot jumpstart with a battery charger as you seem to suggest you want to do in your last post. You will blow the fuse in the battery charger at best and blow it up at worst. Use another battery to jumpstart. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 5 Jun 2006 11:30:20

2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Hi Noger Already sold I'm afraid, even Paul missed it. If you email me off-line, I'll give you a price for a one-off. cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Absolutely. It has NO effect on the immobiliser nor the immobiliser's functionality Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

BTW, ref the crimping tool discussion above, Farnell do a fantastic heavy-duty RATCHETED crimping tool for only £9.99 + vat. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Mike To switch off the engine with my module, you only have to hit the Big Red Button; there's no thinking required. That's certainly no slower than hitting an aircraft switch and certainly MUCH quicker than fiddling for the key. Also, an aircraft switch can be very easily accidentally knocked OFF, while reaching across the dash, as I did on a couple of occasions when I used to have one. Anyway, it's academic as the unit is sold; presumably to someone who can afford more than 8 quid. 😬 Chris PS: the VRX220 is around £30K so a lot lot MORE than the average 7 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 1 Jun 2006 15:13:56

Well a Vauxhall's a car too and cheaper than a 7.........but I bet you wouldn't swap it for your 7 😬 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Big difference in functionality too £8 gets you a button. £68 gets you a sophisticated, microprocessor controlled ignition/start system. 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 31 May 2006 18:07:39

If anyone is interested I have ONE CatStart circuit left over from a batch of 20 I have just made for various club members. The CatStart is a one (big red) button device which operates IGNITION ON, IGNITION OFF and STARTING all from the one button. ie: no separate ignition switch is needed. Your immobiliser is totally unaffected by the use of this circuit. Operation is as follows, from ignition OFF: 1st push = ignition ON 2nd push (held down for 1 second) = starter motor ON for as long as the button is held down 3rd push (and release immediately) = ignition OFF With the ignition ON, the circuit will recognise a push-and-immediate-release as an ignition OFF command and a push-and-hold-down as a START command. There is also a jumper option inside which means that the circuit requires a 3 second hold of the button initially (instead of instantaneously) to switch the ignition ON, in order to provide additional security if desired. The OFF and START functions are unaffected by this jumper. Fitting is very straightforward and very detailed instructions are included. Replaces any currently installed key and or button start system. First to shout gets it. Price is £68 + £5 p&p or collect from my home if geographically feasible (Bedfordshire) Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here