Chris W

Yes, the (completely non-technical) guy who bought it was sceptical at first about all the gadgets but soon realised how useful they are. I offered to restore the car to au naturel but he decided he wanted to keep the gadgets in the end. He used to own a Caterham about 20 years ago (for 3 years). This one will become his main car and he expects to put on 40,000 over the next 2 years (it only has 7K at the moment). Poor thing!! He went for it because of low mileage, SV and one owner primarily. Saw it on Pistonheads. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Hi Zak Thanks for your wishes. I'm buying a boat instead. I've already taken over that forum on the electrics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Stay in touch Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Thanks Ozzy 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Now Sold! 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

PRICE REDUCED 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Hi Paul No plans at the moment unfortunately. It's not economical in either time or money to make just one off. cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Ah... that's make sense now Tom. cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Price reduced. See original post above and on pistonheads 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 28 Sep 2006 09:56:16

Hi Tom The way it's drawn is not the way you describe its working. When the ECU grounds, the transistor will switch OFF and therefore the LED will extinguish. If it is working the other way round, you must have a PNP transistor rather than the NPN drawn. ie: an NTE 383 rather than an NTE 382. As it's drawn, the LED will be ON all the time that the ECU switch is OPEN, ie: BELOW the trigger point revs. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Tom There must be an error on the resistor values on your drawing as it shouldn't work as drawn (ignoring the reversed LED). When the ECU switches to ground, the resistor chain R3/R4 will create a voltage of only about 0.5 volts at the base of the transistor. This is not enough to switch the transistor ON. Even if in practice the supply voltage is closer to 14v rather than 12v (due to the alternator)the base voltage will be only marginally higher. The voltage at the emitter of the transistor will therefore be at virtually earth potential so no current will flow through R2 and the LED will not illuminate. I suspect that R3 is 1.2K (rather than 12K) which would create an emitter voltage of about 2.8v which would give an emitter current of about 3mA. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

I can soon take the extras off if someone doesn't want them. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Anyone want to make a sensible offer? Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

GJT - no probs. I didn't think anything of the kind 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Thanks Shaun 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Suggestions please guys. Where's the best place to advertise this to get a timely sale? Cheers Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

I have had 3 years of great fun with my 7 but have decided to hang up my wheel and pursue other interests. Consequently I am selling my "gadget-filled" Roadsport SV. The details are as follows: Caterham 7 RoadSport SV 1.8 K Series 140HP 2003 • 1.8 K series SV RoadSport with only just over 6000 miles on the clock • Metallic Ruby with Silver stripe on bonnet and nosecone • Factory Built in February 2003 • Private plate at moment (actually an 03 plate) • MOT to February 2007 • Road Fund licence to January 2007 • 5 – speed gearbox • Regularly serviced • Wheels: 16”, 5 spoke • Tyres: 5 x Avon ZZ1 205/45 R16 with masses of tread left. (Spare never used) • Cycle wings • Colour matched Roll Bar • Many, many extras including: o Immobiliser and 2 plippers o Quick release Momo wheel o Leather seats and tunnel o 4 point harnesses o Elbow rests in doors o Additional pair of door hinge clip-in wing mirrors for when doors are removed o Gear-shift lights o Lights-On warning o Automatic dusk-dawn headlights o Self-cancelling indicator buttons on steering wheel o One-touch Big Red Button for on, off and start o Microprocessor controlled system monitoring module o Intelligent oil-pressure light o Voltmeter o Ammeter o Hi-level rear brake light o Oil temperature gauge o Vacuum gauge o Analogue clock o Hood o Hood bag o Spare Wheel on carrier o Spare Wheel luggage bag (fits inside spare wheel) o Heater o Aluminium gear knob o Rear parking radar o Battery Conditioner o Battery conditioner socket in cockpit o Bypass Starter Relay mod fitted o Fan override switch and relay o Additional starting security device o Intermittent wiper control o One touch dip/mainbeam/flash module o New battery this year o Fitted fire extinguisher o Intercom for driver/passenger o No accidents or accident damage o Never raced, no track days. Only used for cruising o Always garaged o A perfect specimen! see photos on my website: here and more photos on the SV register website: here Price £16,950 Based: South Bedfordshire 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 12 Oct 2006 23:31:29

Well to be really safe and sound, forget the diode and connect the fan directly to the battery through an appropriate fuse. No running on (since the ECU is isolated through the ignition switch) and no worry about a diode burning out. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

The inrush current of the fan is about 15A which immediately decreases to less than 10A steady state. Therefore the following Schottky diode will do @ 93p from Maplin here This diode will also take a peak instantaneous inrush current of 150A so it's well suited for this purpose. Connect it between the fan and the thermo switch with the cathode (negative) side of the diode TOWARDS the fan. The reason for using a Schottky diode is that it has a lower forward voltage drop as compared to a silicon diode (about 0.4v as compared to 0.7v for a silicon diode). Although both these figures seem tiny, the fan speed is proportional to the square of the applied voltage so at an alternator voltage of say 13.5v a loss of 0.4 volts equates to a 6% reduction in fan speed while a 0.7v voltage drop equates to a 10% reduction in fan speed. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

David Click on my website below. Page 3 of pictures (middle picture, top row) Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Is a lacrity better than a starter motor then? Give us the details - don't keep it secret. 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

I believe I'm correct in saying the alternator on the 7 (K series) is about 45 amps. There is no problem in having additional output other than the expense of the unit. It'll certainly charge the battery much quicker. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

Sorry, no, I meant the centre terminal and the one furthest from it. I didn't spot the ambiguity, apologies. For the avoidance of doubt, my circuit uses the switch you have just bought. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 17 Jul 2006 17:38:42

It is the correct switch; it's actually the two terminals furthest apart that you need to use. BTW, if you're interested, I have designed a circuit which uses the flasher switch to replace the flash function AND the dip/main function. ie: one switch instead of two. When the lights are OFF, the flash switch works exactly as it does now, viz: a flasher, but when the lights are turned ON, each flick of the "flash" switch toggles the lights between dip and main. The lights always come on in dip mode when first switched on for added safety. Fitting is 5 minute job. It's much simpler to only have to reach for one switch. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 13 Jul 2006 15:43:58

Myles I am confused as to how Chris G is landing these, all charges paid inc delivery to the end-user, for £72 as the VAT alone is about £10-£12 plus carriage on top, plus customs clearance charges. (I assume these are being declared at customs? ) Is Chris G acting as the technical support too or is it a case of contacting the manufacturer directly if an individual has any technical issues? Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here