Neil220
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Everything posted by Neil220
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Jonathan, Are you sure the front screen was heated? I worked at Ford R & D in the 70s and 80s and they were the first company to produce a heated front screen, launched on the Orion I think. They had the concept patented and it wasn't until that expired that more recent cars have been produced with heated front screens🤔
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I used many different versions of " electrical load balance calculations" during my 21 years working at Nissan in the electrical design department. I also had a 1969 mini cooper S for 38 years on which I kept the dynamo. Alternators were fitted to the rally cars to cope with the heated screens and fog/lamps but they aren't needed for a standard 60's/70's road car and you won't need one. They are more reliable and more efficient though than the dynamo/voltage regulator set up
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Apologies for the delay, I don't use the site everyday. Yes, I have one that I replaced with an aero one. Best send me DM if you are interested as then I get notified via email. Regards, Neil
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I have a Rover one with 2 keys. I don't know what you have lubricated it with but WD40 or similar is not good for locking mechanisms, it mingles with dust and forms "goo"! You should use graphite powder
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I had an Aldon Ignitor on my Mini Cooper S for over 20 years with zero issues. There are 2 advantages over points. No point bounce at high revs, non S minis suffered more from this as the S had stronger points to help eliminate the problem. The ignitor produces a near perfect square wave pulse to the coil meaning one could increase the gap in the plugs and get a stronger spark
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Thanks for the explanation. It seems easiest option for me is just to scroll down to the new and updated section. Thanks again
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Any reason for "new and updated" being at the bottom rather than the top? I personally used it 90% of the time, now I have to scroll down through the other topics to get to it
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I have a brochure that covers my car, a 1996 1.6 K series Supersport. It mentions the K series and Vauxhall engines but not the Ford engine supersprint. However, all the variants have 14" wheels except the Superlight versions which have 13". Yes, many of the photographs show 15" wheels but each page has the comment "Please note: photographs may include options" (My car has 14" wheels)
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I had similar issues. Later cars had different calipers with larger pads. Mintex 1144 pads are available for many cars and variations of makes. Ordering Mintex 1144 for a Caterham as I nearly did will get you the later ones! I got these for my 1996 Supersport. If you contact Demon Tweaks and tell them you are a club member they send you a link to pay with free P&P ORDER DETAILS: Your Item(s)Quantity Mintex M1144 Brake Pads To Fit Girling 14LF OE Calipers SKU: MINMGB533M1144
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There are indeed, but it would be £100+!
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Looks the same as that fitted to 60's minis and many others at the time, a standard Lucas part https://www.autosparks.co.uk/lucas-2-way-glass-fuse-box https://oldskoolminis.co.uk/shop/classic-mini/switches/classic-mini-fuse-box-2-line-1959-76-606253a-rover-austin-glass-cooper-bmc-4h2/
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MKC103930 Iss A 191202 0676 1996 1.6 Supersport
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I have an ECU and 2 keyfobs but not a 5as unit
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Do they have to be Wisimic? Loads of similar on Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=wisamic+7+inch+led+headlight&dc&crid=25ZTK6HZ314ZW&qid=1692031624&sprefix=wisamic+7+inch%2Caps%2C738&ref=aw_s_fkmr1
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#30 Alan, Thanks for your advice. No FIA switch. Wiring looks good but will investigate more thoroughly.
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#29 Stu, Many thanks indeed for taking the time to send that information. First for me is check nothing is amiss with the ignition switch/connections. If okay then I'll add the extra relay and bypass the MFRU on the basis that if I can't hear the starter solenoid clicking it's because it's not getting a feed from the MFRU. Visually all the wiring looks good, it's been routed away from the exhaust and wrapped to reduce heat. Can the micro relay in the MFRU be heard clicking when it operates? It's very small!
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Many thanks for the link. I don't have the infamous K series heat related click problem. So although I shall do this mod it won't solve my problem if it's the MFRU. As suggested I'll confirm the wire in and out and bypass it. Thanks all for advice and suggestions.
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Many thanks I think I'll do the mod, waiting for info on how to bypass the MFRU. Heat isn't a factor for my problem though
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#18 Thanks, which issue of LF do I need to look for?
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#17 Where can I find how to bypass the MFRU?
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#17 Where can I find how to bypass the MFRU?
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#16 What do you mean by "pull the supply to the solenoid, activate the starter" By pull do you mean disconnect? Then, how do I activate the starter motor? Are you suggesting that I listen for a click from the relay in the MFRU? Appreciate your help, just don't quite follow!
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I have the relay to make the mod but haven't installed it yet. Currently when the fault occurs there is no click, just deathly silence!
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#10 #11 Thanks for your advice
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#7 I was tending towards tapping rather than hitting on the assumption that it's so infrequent if it was the MFRB then the contacts of the relay would be "sticking" and if a tap/hit cured it then I'd know the root cause?
