Bob L

If for any reason Alan's not interested, please let me know. Thanks, Bob

I assume you are already as skinny as a super model on 60 Bensons a day That just leaves the washer bottle and heater Doh! Just seen the heaters out Edited by - Bob L on 7 Oct 2013 12:06:49

Not just modifications, more general enhancements to the driving experience, some better than others: Peashooter silencer (?), now at least if I cant be seen, I can be bloody well heard! Earplugs Toyo R888’s – great when dry, try not to take it out in the wet Mechanical OPG Cooling mod on the K series with the T peace – no more air locks, should have done this sooner. Rear view mirrors – Various, this is continual work in progress…. Half hood – just purchased and waiting delivery but its got to better than fighting with a full hood when it rains Ace change up lights – Fun, easy to fit but pointless if you have ears 12v Lighter socket for accessories but mainly for charging - simples Original Caterham jacket from 1999, faded and getting a little threadbare but still the most comfortable and warm compared to everything else I’ve tried – why did they stop making this version 😔 My own servicing – Only just started doing this but surprisingly satisfying on a warm day and at least I know nothing has been missed Rear wheel intrusion bar. Will fit a side impact bar eventually – every little counts!

Sounds good, can anyone provide a link to the connectors and possibly the tool?

The Coolant mod worked well for me but I did install the bleed tee at the same time. Drained and refilled twice now with no issues. Did you remove the radiator bleed bolt (not sure of its correct term)? I fill up until coolant is present here, replace the bolt then fill very slowly via the bleed tee. This will always leave a little air in system (normally the heater) but flushes through easily once warm, then just top-up. PS Thanks for the details on the oil filter adaptor and temp sensor, all purchased and just waiting on the next oil change

Sorry, no idea what this looks like or the imposed space restrictions but instead of the nipple, could an electrical screw connector (there must be a proper name for these) hold better? Otherwise my wife’s baked pasta sticks anything to Pyrex 😬

The oil pressure switch I had proved to have the wrong sealing washer. They have to be a very close fit to the threads i.e. if you can just wind the washer on, that’s seems about right. Some are aluminium but I believe copper is best in this area. Apologies if you have already tried this but sometimes the cheap & easy solutions can cure the problems.

Take the capillary / tracking / wind effect out of the equation. Start it up on the drive from cold and dab tissue (dark green paper hand towels are ideal) round all areas while its getting warm. This should confirm the source.

You will probably get loads of replies relating to who found what on the cars but mine was similar to what you describe. It turned out to be the battery tray. I assume over the years of breaking and accelerating had worked a bit of free play in the rivets holding all that weight in place. Considering the weight of a Banner, these did seem too few and on the small side. Drilled out the existing and replaced with larger ones, then added a few more. This is an area worth checking regardless, if the battery does fall forward on hard breaking the chances are the terminals will short against something

Sounds like it could be the water rail or a leak from the hose that connects to this point. The water rail on mine is the lowest point where a leak from the heater hose could accumulate in drips and this is right above the starter area. Push some paper tissues around the area and try a short drive. That should at least narrow it down a bit.

All the stuff above plus: Mines BRG and love it but you become invisible to other road users, especially at roundabouts. If I had my time again I would go a brighter colour or at least a nose band…..and drive with the lights on.

Nothing for Sunday I suppose? The misses an I can,t make today ☹️

I want a 4” silencer (CC ref CSP025 here), side exit non cat. CC are out of stock and have been for some time ☹️ Any idea who makes these, can they be purchased direct? Its for a 1.8 K series using 4 -1 primaries.

Cut up a cycle inner tube and place that over the outlet, then the silicone hose on top.

Required: Caterham Exhaust Silencer - Side Exit - Non Catalyst - 4' diameter There must be loads knocking about that are too loud for the track?

Hi John, I already had the lightened flywheel. Used the AP clutch (obtainable from CC and many other outlets) as a straight replacement for the std Rover item. These are not cheap but managed to obtain a 2nd hand item with 1K miles on it for a reasonable sum from a fellow BC member. My concerns were it might be a bit fierce or require the legs of a kangaroo to operate but to be honest I find the difference negligible. This issues you are experiencing were very similar to my own. Mines road use only with 25K miles. I also hoped it was just the CRB so shunted the engine forward and changed that one item. Also did load springs as suggested by John Vine (thanks for the article John and subsequent mails on the subject). However, the removed CRB appeared in very reasonable condition and didn’t cure the problem So, a couple of months later I bought an engine crane (they are now reasonably priced and as I didn’t want to rush the job, thought it might break even with hiring costs. It didn’t but at least I have a tangible asset and every other sevener seems to own one). The downside is these take up a lot of room in the garage. Then the parts: Clutch Clutch plate Clutch cable Spigot bearing x 2 (cheap item, bought 2 in case a made a hash of the replacement) SB Sleeve x2 (as above) Engine mounts (surprised how much difference this made after the change) Gearbox mount Some more silicon hoses / selection of Mikalor clamps Exhaust manifold gasket Water rail gasket Grey high temp silicone sealant for water rail gasket (Halfords) Spare exhaust studs (not needed in the end) While all was out I probably should have changed the thermostat….but didn’t. I did dismantle / clean the starter and replaced the live feed from the battery (Halfords std item and just a couple of quid). There are lots of tips on spigot bearing removal and replacement. I used a Dremel and grinding stone to get the old one out (took but a few minutes). Replacement was straight forward but everything must be square when tapping home. I won’t bog down this thread with details but can go into more separately if you need to discuss. As and aside I only changed the CRB by sliding the engine forward as I thought this was the problem and far less hassle than taking the engine out. In truth, full engine removal only takes about another hour as there is only electrical plugs and throttle cable left to remove. So I wish, with hindsight, I had done this job once and changed all the bits I’ve listed in one go (plus the CRB). The clutch I removed seemed in very good condition with plenty of friction material left – just didn’t want to risk another removal should I still have problems on reconnection! Good luck, Bob

Just done this job, sounds more like a spigot bearing issue to me but I’m no expert. I changed the clutch / plate / spigot bearing and sleeve. Not a difficult job just time consuming. Used an AP Racing clutch and plate on a lightened flywheel. You don’t need to remove the flywheel to change the spigot bearing and sleeve. Plenty of threads on this within the archives. Changed the CRB and attached the extra springs to pre-load before Christmas, should have done the other bits at the same time ☹️ Will you be doing this yourself?

Air cooled Beatle 😬

Ditto on 5w-50 fully synthetic and also gone mechanical after everyone else’s comments 😶‍🌫️ Near full screen deflection and less damping gives much better peace of mind, an inexpensive and simple mod for a damp w/e morning. Probably one of the best upgrades I made.

I did the mod some months back now. Changed all remaining hoses to silicon and installed the bleed tee. No issues with an indicated 80 degree C held firm under ordinary road conditions. Try changing the expansion cap as the cheapest check first. I have gone through a couple of these during my ownership. I also had to change to some Mikalor clamps to get a decent seal on a couple of the smaller hoses. Small unnoticed seeps of fluid here would be replaced by air which needs to build up somewhere!

Did mine over the w/e on an S3 with full screen. I didn’t need to remove mine but have positioned the DRE unit dead centre above the tacho so just to the left of the steering wheel (for ease of viewing without elevation). There was plenty of room to drill a small pilot hole after applying a couple of layers of insulation tape a small Allen key as a spacer between the drilled hole and screen (approx. 4 mm). This stopped the drill slipping at the angle permitted by the screen. With the tacho removed, I then used a 6.5 mm drill from underneath the dash to drill vertically upwards. Very easy to align with the tacho out of the way and plenty of room with the wire pushed back. One small grommet and wire up. Took about 2 hours including the soldering and taking my time.

Ditto - YHM

The chassis earth on my 1800K is directly under the coil pack to the lower side engine bay frame but they can differ!

While the rest you are blatting in perfect weather this B/H, I’ve decided to change the clutch / spigot bearing / CRB plus other minor changes while all this is out. My question to the learned forum is – is it worth squeezing a bit more grease in the CRB. If yes, does HMP grease fit the bill? I’ve already done the pre load adaption and changed the bearing in Feb this year but the squeal is still there (on letting the clutch up) The current bearing has a plastic outer casing (plastic just doesn’t seem right), the planned replacement is a SKF metal version. Read as much as possible on the spigot change – Really looking forward to this bit

Many thanks Guys. Now ordered