Bob L

Thanks for all your help, suggestions and raw data. Very much appreciated. Rgds, Bob

Agreed, no need to bleed. It will work fine.

Thanks for your comments. Yes, I suspected an earth issue but there was no resistance between the sender top nut and the engine block. No PTFE used, just a little sealant. Time to warm up - I thought the same, gave it 8 miles in varied traffic but when switched (periodically), the gauge drops right to zero. Resistance of the water sender - Brilliant idea and its very accessible. I should I have thought of that. Thanks.

I’ve finally got around to installing a water temp sensor within the oil filter housing and the on/off/on toggle switch (as used by others) to utilise the existing standard Caterham water temp gauge. Unfortunately, no reading when I switch to oil temp, needle returns to zero. Water temp is fine when switched. Checked the wiring, switch and earth – all seems good. I now suspect the sensor itself may be faulty. I can rig a multimeter to the sensor while driving and view the reading. Any electrical geniuses out there know what resistance measurements I should be able to view when at ambient (engine cold) and when hot. Just want to be sure before I remove and replace. Temp sender (water) for Caterham gauge 96 on - supplied by one of our best -RC Ltd

Thanks Andrew

Andrew, Did you use a brass washer and / or sealant on the threads of the temp sender. If yes, what sealant? Thanks, Bob

Excellent. Thanks Guys.

Servicing the car and noted very slight movement in the L/H front lower ball joint. Can't be seen but can be felt by using a bar a raising the wheel while a finger is under the bolt. Accompanied by a slight click (not as bad as a clonk!). Car is a Wide track 99 1.8 K series. What needs to be changed. Is it just a joint or the whole L/H lower wishbone or upright as well? Slight vertical movement only, no lateral. R/H side has no play at all. Thanks.

From the picture would it be possible to use decent mole grips to perform removal.

Thanks again JonT, info much appreciated.

Thanks JonT, I like the look and the basic one is not much more expensive than a repair job. Was this easy to wire up and does the needle seem reasonably damped in operation?

Problem: Tacho needle fluctuates as if not damped in operation, after a few seconds it appears to settle down and read true but any change in RPM and it kangaroo’s off again about 1.5K around the true reading. It's been to JDO for repair which did improve matters but the problem has returned. Discussing with them as its under warranty. However, thinking of replacing. Its 1999 vintage off an EU2 Supersport with 3 pins on the back for the main connections. Caterham no longer supply and think the same with Smiths. The label on the back advises its a Caerbont RVC 1490-02 . This is the basic one with no warning lights. Anyone had a similar problem and can recommend a decent replacement? Would prefer to keep the same connections but happy to change if the instructions are good.

PM sent. Rgds, Bob

YHM Rgds, Bob

Jonathan, Thanks for the prompt reply and kind offer. I’ll arrange a photograph but based in North Kent so a bit of a stretch. Suspect I may need this fixed so that contact is very useful. Thanks again, Bob

K series 99 vintage 1.8 supersport Tacho is Caterham branded with 3 pin connector. At a steady speed / RPM the needle is steady and reads true. On changing gear or acceleration, the needle fluctuates / waves about 1 to 1.5 K either side of the true reading for a couple of seconds. Disconnected and cleaned connections to the 3 pins on the tachometer, grey plug in the loom and the connection on the coil. Have I missed anywhere? All other gauges operate ok Its as if the tachometer is operating ok but the needle is not damped. Going over bumps does not affect it and change lights operate ok which are connected to the tachometer 3 pins. A gentle shake of the tachometer does not move the needle much and nothing sounds or feels loose inside. Faulty tachometer or can I check elsewhere to prove or resolve the issue. Thanks, Bob

Yes please. Will send mail. Rgds, Bob

Just finished servicing my 1.8 K Series, 99 vintage, 38 K miles. Last job was to top up the anti-freeze and noticed slight discolouration and an oily feel to the current mixture. The drained oil appeared fine. I'm assuming HGF? If so time for a new cam belt and verniers while in bits. Any thoughts / recommendations for the repair and veniers close to Bexleyheath area?

As mentioned above, using a Dremel and small grinding stone to take the leading edge off the bearing and just lever it out the remains with a small screwdriver. Took less than 5 minutes.

Price now reduced to £1,800. I need the space for the SUV!

My 'daily' runner is up for sale although it only gets used at weekends. Colour Silver Mileage 82,700 Miles (yes, this mileage is genuine) First Registration Date 1/3/2003 Model Year 2003 Previous Owners - 2 (husband and wife, husband died thus transfer of ownership) Current owner has had this car since 2005. All owners were and are non- smokers. Full service history with timing belt change at 55K miles New tires and battery November 2016 MOT Expiry - November 2017 Power 130 BHP Transmission Manual CO2 emissions 151 Emission class Euro 3 Price £1,800 This car is in very good condition throughout and been totally reliable, AA / RAC / Blatchatter inspection welcome. The rear seats have only been used on a few occasions. The onset of grandchildren and everything that goes with them now necessitates a bigger vehicle (so I’m advised), otherwise we would be keeping it. SE London / North Kent area. Thanks for looking.

Tim, YHM re apollo. Rgds, Bob

Noises – notoriously difficult to describe and normally much harder still to trace the cause. You advise its coming from the nearside /rear. Have you had a passenger on board to confirm the same? Four ears are better than 2 and at least the passenger can face in different directions to assist further. Impossible when your own your own and driving with all due care. I had an occasional EEEEEEEE from start-ups, that seemed to be from the nearside. It turned out to be a spigot bearing. Let’s hope yours is not as involved but I think these only relate to the K series. Try and get several different experienced 7esk passengers in the car (with the remnants of reasonable hearing) and wait for 8 different opinions :-0 Best of luck, Bob

Possibly with a yellow stripe, 2 up. Sounded nice - BDR engine? We were the BRG in front just returning home from a loop.

Thanks - YHM