Bob L

Yes please. PM sent. Thanks, Bob

I was happy to proceed with the change, virtually all the feedback was positive but when I dug deeper, I had the old ECU (1999) and these were not exchangeable (at least when I last applied).

Thanks for all the replies. John - can't view yours untill I get home (work websense issue) but thanks for posting. Nigel and Rob - you have mail.

Banner is dying (3rd one), Just purchased an Odyssey PC680 from previous ancient threads on what’s recommended and now awaiting delivery. However, I’m unable to view the pictures of how best to mount these in a S3 K series. I believe the cross member is too close to mount flat but has anyone been able to do this? I don’t mind fabricating a bracket. Otherwise its vertical with packing. Anyone got any pics of their install I could view? Will I require longer leads for a vertical installation? I would like some protection on the terminals regardless – any recommendations / suppliers? I’ve read through most of the archives (I think) but any comments and tips welcome.

Hi Nigel, Changed mine at 30K just because the engine was out. I do drive like an old woman but the original seemed to have no appreciable wear compared to the new AP I purchased. As I had the new one I replaced it anyway. Std 1.8K series. If you do take yours out and need an emergency replacement, I still have the original and just around the corner from you but expect you would want something new for your motor. Could it be the cable / clutch arm? I also have a spare S/H clutch cable if you want to try that.

Yes please, let me now the payment details. Bob

Thanks Ian. That is the second part of the pain, all that work and it only needs the merest dribble, if at all but you still need to check it. I'll do the boot floor method next time.

Been doing my own servicing for the last 3 years and one area that is constantly causing a pain is topping up the differential. Getting the filler plug out is a cut down Allen key is a fiddle but doable, topping up is fine, putting the plug back is a real bloody hassle. Trying to keep it straight and doing it up with oily fingers within the limited space takes ages. Does anyone else suffer this or is there a better way. Is removing the boot floor the way to go (still seems an awkward angle)? It’s a K series with LSD and Di-Dione tube with rear ARB over the tube. No matter what I do, there just doesn’t seem room for 2 man size hands. Should I just get the wife to do it.....

Thanks Jonathan, any personal experience of these, any recommendations? Can these just be plugged into a 12v socket and away you go? Expect I need to visit a bike shop to asses the options available.

I suppose this could apply to Sevens but my wife has a VW Up that she is pleased with. Loves the heated seats but no heated steering wheel and she really suffers in the cold. She wears gloves while driving but still suffers from painfully cold fingers. Anyone tried aftermarket heated steering wheel covers – do they work and any recommendations? Was also thinking of heated gloves. Are these likely to be better or less restrictive than cables to a steering wheel cover? Should I just buy a good quality sheepskin cover. Would this be a good compromise without the hassle and mess of wires etc? I know we are not out of summer yet but would like to get this in hand before the cold days set in. Thanks for any wisdom and personal experience that BC can provide.

This topic is very subjective, I’ve tried several options since 1999 but gone back to the std Caterham item. The difference this time – I mounted it much lower and slightly to the left. Basically the only item in the field of vision that’s now obscured is the nearside headlamp. Rearward vision is not perfect as I have a single diagonal FIA roll bar but with the use of side mirrors and the new position for the centre mirror, most areas are now covered with good forward vision. You can try with basic double sided tape before you apply the more permanent stuff.

Ditto - thought 5W50 would cover both high and low temperatures better than 10W40 etc Now watch someone prove me wrong.......

Speedo drive / cable? Try disconnecting (I have no idea how difficult that would be in reality).

My thanks to all for taking the time to reply with your own personal experiences. The detail you have provided will hopefully enable me to weigh up my options. If there are any others who have taken this route please feel free to comment.

Interested in end user reviews on the Z&F remap. I’ve read the articles / web links, so now thinking of upgrading without attending site by just advising what I have and few required parameters. Anyone done this and been pleasantly surprised by the result. What did you specify for yours (if anything) i.e. idle at 1K to illuminate 6 speed rattle (was 1k enough!), burble on overrun, and what’s the long term view on performance. In your opinion was it VFM? I’d probably pay the extra £60 for a straight swap and keep the old unit. I believe I would then be paying £279. Thanks, Bob

Geoff, You have BM. Rgds, Bob

Ditto

Thought I’d give this a go and changed: Headlight bowls Headlight bulbs Side lights Many members have criticised the current headlamps as poor performers at night. Although I don’t currently travel many country lanes at night (most of may night driving is urban). The following upgrades had been taken up by some and thought to be worthwhile especially as the outlay was modest for a reasonable gain in performance. Headlight bowls were changed from Wipac prism glass to the modern crystal deflector type from Powerful.uk The Headlight bulbs were std Caterham items some 15 years old and changed to H4 Osram Halogen Night Breakers +110%. Side lights were changed to 501, 360 degree LED’s (temp White 5K). Much brighter than the std incandescent bulbs with, hopefully, greater longevity. The lights were purchased from Autobulbs Direct Ltd. Replacing all the above was a like for like fit except the sidelight aperture on the new headlight bowls was slightly smaller than the std Caterham fitment. These were replaced with the wiring and connectors supplied with the new bowls and a couple of spade connectors. The whole job took less than 1.5 hours including the obligatory tea break after one lamp was completed and a comparison check. First night drive was yesterday and the improvement is impressive. A much whiter light and the beam pattern definitely more focused to where the light is required. There is nothing scientific behind this post, not even a photo. Just wanted to extend my thanks to all those who posted on the various options. I’m sure if you spend extra there are further benefits to be gained but this is a relatively cheap and simple upgrade that I would be happy to endorse.

Hi Tom, I suspect the amount of aluminium you would need to remove from the side skins would be very similar to us all. I too am thinking of this so would be interested any measurements of the finished hole. At least this would provide an approx starting point to work from.

My thanks for all your responses. Lepsons looks good and you cant beat personal recommendations. Waiting for their reply on a quote now.

Can anyone recommend a good wheel referbisher close to the Bexleyheath / North Kent area? If yes, can you advise on approx. cost as well. Thanks, Bob

Change the clutch, pressure plate, CRB and spigot bearing / sleeve. If K series, apply the cooling modification and possibly change the thermostat after drilling the whole (access is so much easier with the engine out). Engine and Gearbox mounts. Clean up the starter solenoid. That should keep you busy

Probably not ideal but I have a spare second hand gasket ready drilled as per the photo. I replaced mine a few weeks back to change the foam baffle. I drilled the old one as a practice item for when I did this to the new gasket but to be honest, it seemed in very good condition with only the usual slight indentation of the mating surfaces apparent. God knows why I kept it but....if you want it and and I can get it over to SM25T before he's departure to Belgium .... it then just has to get to you from Elie.... It may be in better condition than the one you have? Its free and at least gives you an option. Please let me know asap if you want it. SM25T - sorry, I hope this suggestion fits in with yourself if I can get it to you tomorrow (Saturday). Rgds, Bob L

Yes please. I'll mail shortly

Yes please. Will contact with further details this evening if thats Ok.