Bob L

Thanks, there has been mountains scribed on the merits or lack of in lagging the primaries. My personal view after reading as much as possible is a not to pursue this course of action. I would prefer not to add an extra vent but considering it as: 1) The heat around the alternator / starter / battery and ECU, especially when stationary, can’t be doing any of it much good ☹️ 2) I’m new to the Dremel (other makes available ) and surprised how easy it was to cut the dreaded original hole. This seemed the simplest part of the whole installation. Even for a numpty like me. I appreciate we all have more than our reasonable share of bonnet louvers but every little helps?

Just fitted an CC 4 -1 exhaust system to my K-Series and noticed a marked increase in radiated heat. I have a sort of std 10mm air gap around the pipes as it exits the skin. I don’t want to ‘lag the pipes’ but fitted a DIY heat shield to the starter and may do similar to the alternator although no1 primary avoids this quite well. Just wondering if anyone has fitted an additional air vent to the side skin of their cars for some added ventilation. I’ve never seen anyone do this and preferably, I don’t want a power bulge, the more subtle the better. What is the wisdom of BC. Has anyone bothered? What has been used? Did it work?

Mine won't go out in it either, I agreed to have a full screen but she prefers a roof and a rear exit exhaust. Admittedly the burn was quite nasty but it was me that had to clean the flesh off ☹️ How awesome is an aero, this is true alpha male territory

That is a result, well done sir

In truth the swmbo issue can prove the biggest hurdle. Something to do with the way they are wired which involves a priority verses cost process realignment. Many think the error is on our part but with careful guidance no problem is insurmountable. After all, all current Sevener’s have found the correct releasing agents over time. It’s just knowing where and how much to apply. I don’t claim to be an expert but the following just tipped it over for me: Take swmbo to the showroom on a warm sunny day. They are always a nice bunch and swmbo will meet other like minded couples doing the same, get talking about anything but 7’s – Yep, its nothing to do with cars, you are introducing her to a whole new social circle of friends / days out / meals etc. This will lead to a few new clothes but a small price to pay. Showrooms are always warm, there is coffee and shiny cars that look clean and acceptable in a 1950’s way. It’s a fashion statement from a better post war time for Spitfire pilots, the performance is secondary. Always stand by the R500 and let her notice the price 😳 she will, you will not need to point this out. Apparently this matters to women if its something we want but not often taken into consideration if it’s a new outfit or wedding plans for the daughter. If you want the R500 additional advice from experts will be required. The Seven you want will appear a bargain and looks just the same to an untrained eye. Casually advise you could save another £2K if you built it yourself and it only takes wet weekend to build one…..nearly true. It may appear reasonably priced compared to your daughters first wedding. You need to phrase this one better. Let her sit in and try out the mirrors, they will anyway. But - don’t take it for a test drive, especially if she’s just had her done. If you can’t get round this, use one with screen / doors / heater and keep it to under 30 MPH (this will go against nature but remember the bigger picture). Oh, and explain that these cars don’t devalue….much at all…… Turn the tele off for a weekend and ask lots of questions about her mother while washing up, she may even wish to visit. No need to mention the Seven during such visit. Simples? Well not quite, there are bound to be other tips within the community 😬

Replaced mine for the K series through SFS - very helpful and excellent quality silicone

Sounds a plan - Thanks Paul

Slight hijack if I may. This sounds really useful. Anyone done this to a std K series wet sump? Is there anywhere to attach the sender without drilling the sump pan or with just minimal modification.

‘Tis true that we can all pad up and insulate our important little places but why have one of the fastest cars on earth when it takes you 20 minutes to find all that lagging and apply it ☹️ Some of my best blats have been during unexpected free time or just that quick trip to the in-laws on an errand. Its got to be a balance but as the heater probably weighs less than a sheepskin / thermals and I’ve yet to find a job where the heater gets in the way – its staying put 😬

I took mine out last year as there was a slight leak that I couldn’t find the cause of. It was easy to bypass and remove the old system but then that leaves a large section of scuttle that needs to sealed off and should be fire resistant. Ali sheet works well. However, I was surprised how little the heater actually weighed so advantages here seemed minimal and from threads on BC, I found the cause of the leak and managed to repair with a replacement matrix quite cheaply from Clayton compared to a CC replacement unit. I went back to the heater once I found I could repair it at reasonable cost but more importantly, I did notice the cold during those early morning blats over the last month. The new (repaired) heater and silicon hoses have made the whole experience far more pleasant with a big difference in temperature noted even without the fan on. Apologies to the purists but I‘ve reverted back to the dark cosy side and can not honestly say I’ve noticed much difference in performance Perhaps it’s an age thing, I’m 53 and from the soft South.

Sounds simple but one of the best tools I found was an old sheet of hardboard, any reasonable size. Just lay it under the car shiny side up it makes the best garage creeper. So low you will hardly need to jack up the car (well maybe just a little) and enables access to all areas without the wheeled versions acting like a supermarket trolley. Flip it over at night and it catches any drips!

Another for the handbreak cables. I sheathed mine in some heater hose and tie rapped to stop it sliding around. Don’t tie rap to any bodywork unless you sure there is enough free movement left for the De-Dion to arc through its full motion. Takes a couple of minutes to do and may well solve the issue 😬

Thanks for these threads guys – saves me disconnecting in future and I may well install the 12V socket as most have done. What I noticed is when I disconnect the battery there was always a click (relay?). Anyone any idea which relay this might be, ECU perhaps? It’s a 99 vintage 1.8K.

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Can I be rude and hijack a part of this tread, when you use an Optimate or trickle charger it sound like some members are not disconnecting the battery terminal/s from the car i.e. the alternator is still physically connected to the battery while charging. Has anybody had any issues with this because I thought such a practice was positively frowned upon (no pun intended or related jokes please 😬).

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Fully agree and do this alot where 'pressing on' is not an option. Also saves wear on the clutch and fuel (if the later is a concern)

What was the one you wanted?