David aka Blue7

Thanks for posting Mark. I still use my Go Pro 3+ because by fitting an additional battery "back pack" it provides me with two mini usb ports, so I can use the Go Pro port for the external mic fitted with the adaptor and the back pack port to provide external power source as ringed in red below. Does that "Media Mod" allow you to fit an external mic and also external power? My recent problem has been interference and loss of audio altogether which I have traced to a faulty mic extension lead so replacement just fitted. Your mic lead seems to be long enough to reach that position wiithout necessity to fit an extension lead. David

Chris, I think the clear lenses look great, far superior to those old fashioned reds If you really want the best look no further than the JAL upgrade, they are amazing! Take a look at the 4th photo https://justaddlightness.co.uk/product/caterham-7-rear-light-cluster-led-upgrade-kit/

Thanks for the link to that discussion, I hadn't thought of looking at the part no. on the sensor and with the aid of a magnifying glass my part no. is slightly different XS508B1NAL2 The photo links no longer work and just show union jacks but I have made a note of the manufacturer Telemecanique. A Google for the part leads to a company in Leeds Farnell and what look like the sensors with M8 width but they would need to be cut to length and connected to a suitable junction box. A Google for my part no. finds them on Amazon at an eye watering price and at a better price at BPX Leicester Thanks for the info, I have made a note of it

Here is a photo of the two, the De Dion on the left has a part no. CAT-SP-0038AK and the CSR sensor on the right had a part no. EMP40-1. My impression is that the De Dion on the left would fit a narrower mounting and is supplied with a larger diameter mounting adaptor (shown above the sensor) into which it screws. I just wanted to know if any CSR owners had fitted it successfully?

I haven't actually tried it so it may work but it looks different in that the end of the sensor is set much further back in it's housing. I just wondered if anyone had fitted it as a replacement and if so did it function ok and did the mounting require any modification.

I have just heard that CC no longer supply wheelspeed sensors for the original CSR and all that is available is the sensor 2017 onwards and it seems that it is a similar situation with Redline. I actually bought one as a spare back in 2018 thinking it was a direct replacement for my CSR but on looking closely the sensor looks quite different. I don’t have a problem at present but thinking ahead, has anyone successfully fitted the 2017 sensor or modified it to work on a CSR? The 2017 sensor is shown here ... out of stock of course David

The weather pattern has changed over the years, we now seem to get micro climates less than a mile apart and when it rains it can be torrential downpours. We haven't had rain for a week now, clear blue skies ... probably saving all the rain for the September FTT

#7 Stu, you would have driven through Inverness, Grantown, Aberlour, Craigellachie, Dufftown, Tomintoul, over the Lecht and then the road to Gairnshiel where you would have crossed the bridge and continued to Balmoral, Braemar, Glenshee and after that maybe Pitlochry to join the A9. My favourite place down your way is Beddgelert, especially that quirky shop Beddgelert Woodcraft by the bridge. I still buy things from that shop on line. David

#6 Paul, FTT are just probably trying to "sell" the tour but it depends on how you interpret "driver's road", it certainly isn't a fast road but more scenic and potholes can be a problem but it's a bucket list road and just has to be driven ... if only to keep SWIMBO quiet

I don't know what route you intend to take but you may want to consider taking the B976 / A939 Old Military road because it will be your last opportunity to cross the River Gairn using the old Gairnshiel Bridge, Grade A-listed structure – built in the mid-1700s. Due to continuing HGV damage, the bridge is being replaced and completion of the replacement bridge is scheduled for Spring 2023. I first crossed it in 1972 driving an old Austin A35 which grounded at that time because the bridge had an even more severe hump! Now Caterham friendly, you can see it here fast forward to 3.1 minutes into the video. and if you want to see the bridge being crossed on foot and enjoy the sound of the pipes, you can see the Lonach Highlanders crossing here: Aberdeenshire Council notification https://online.aberdeenshire.gov.uk/apps/news/release.aspx?newsid=8521 David

#97 I have been charging my Lithium battery while it is still connected via the power socket and no problems. David

To update my situation, I received this advice from Jack Webb: There is a difference in the capacity of the Banner, but the 12ah is the rating in Lithium Amp Hours - not PbEq Amp Hours as every lead acid battery is measured in. The reason for the difference is down to the usable capacity of the battery itself - a LiFePO4 battery has a far superior usable capacity which is typically around double that of lead acid chemistries. Jack also suggested fitting a battery isolator switch along the negative lead which looks like an easier task, for me, and I can fit the switch somewhere inside the car, one of these https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/battery-isolator-changeover-switches.html It would certainly save money in electricity costs because the Lithium battery, if isolated, holds its charge over winter and does not require a trickle charge, which I have noticed with my new lawnmower lithium battery. At some stage I will determine just how long it takes for the immobiliser to cause the lithium battery to go into LVP mode. To solve the problem with my Halfords jump start unit not operating because it seels the LVP as a dead battery, I have ordered a NOCO Boost Sport GB20 500A jump starter, which has an override switch that allows it to charge a battery that appears to be dead.

Finlay, interesting comments. Brian is a topper of a person but when he retired things just weren't the same between son and daughter and their exceptional mechanic left. Claire did her best and was very good but Paul didn't really want to actually work, he just wanted to play at being a racing driver. One story from a TVR owner was leaving his car with them and going for a walk around Callander only to eventually discover that he still had his car keys in his pocket so his car was locked. He walked back to the garage and before he had time to embarrassingly explain he was told his car had been serviced and was ready to go So you now have a 620R, what happened to your CSR ... gone across the Clyde to Rab C Nesbitt?

2015 and 15k miles, never tracked but lots of adventures around Scotland with excursions down to Donington and Portmeirion. It is my third new CSR they were all different and the first one was the first new car I ever bought, prior to that all my cars were second hand. First one was handed over with Nick Potter at Tebay services on M6 because it is one of the few places you can actually cross the motorway services from south to north. I traded in my S3 1.8 K series VVC which was my first 7 bought on Pistonheads from a guy in York ... which was the first car I ever bought without a test drive, I saw it and fell in love with it, especially what was described as hand made wheels ... and then the adventure began I often wonder who has it now, no other 7 has wheels like that

I noticed these on CC website last week and decided to go for a set. The standard CSR centre caps are too small so you have to buy the new centre caps for Apollo, Orcus & Classic wheels, then I thought new wheel nuts and ceramic coating and then there was the cost of changing tyres ... but the end result looks pretty good IMHO. If you have a CSR, this is how they look and good for CC for stocking them.

Interesting information about Dreadnought. I used to travel down from Aberdeenshire but after Brian Luti retired they just weren't the same, they let me down with a very poor service and later on at a number of local car show events, I heard some awful stories about their servicing so I have never returned and now use a local garage Jim King Autotune, Lethenty, Inverurie who services a lot of local Caterhams but too far from Edinburgh. Caterham changed agency from Dreadnought to RPM Perth, who were hopeless and later the Agency was awarded to Aston Martin Dealership Leven Motors but they later went into receivership. I assume Dreadnought have 'sulked' since they lost agency status.

#85 Many thanks for that explanation Roger Do you know why a 'normal' battery charger can't be used to charge a Lithium battery? David

Brett, that is the same CTEK charger that I have just bought, after an hour it is now at stage 3 charging with declining current, so at least I know this charger is working ok. How long had you left your car before the immobiliser ran the battery down?

#80 Roger, you are correct, I have just checked and Lithium battery is 12AH and Banner 30AH so the lithium battery is going to be somewhat inconvenient for me. An additional problem is that my Halfords jump starter will not function because of the lithium battery UVP (Under Voltage Protection) which shuts the battery down at a specific low voltage so the jump starter thinks the battery is completely flat and will not operate. I am expecting the replacement charger tomorrow but I have just taken delivery of a CTEK charger for lithium batteries and reading the instructions it mentions the fact that if charging a lithium battery with UVP it may not charge if it is in Protect mode but there is a "Reset" button on the CTEK that can override the UVP and allow the battery to charge. In which case I wonder how the basic charger supplied with the battery works, maybe it just charges regardless of UVP? For peace of mind I think I may revert back to old technology of the lead acid Banner and just have to chalk this down to experience. David

Update on my JWM lithium battery. I haven't used the 7 for a couple of weeks and when I went to start it yesterday, the battery was flat. I put it on charge using the charger supplied but the charger light did not illuminate at all. Connected to my old Banner battery it glowed red and quickly changed to blue. Regardless, I left it charging my lithium battery during the day but by the end of the day (5 hrs), it was still flat. I have been in touch with Jack Webb and he has been very helpful and thinks it is a faulty charger and has put a replacement in the post which should arrive on Wednesday so hopefully that will solve the problem. What concerns me is that the only drain on the battery is the immobiliser and my Banner could cope with that for 4 maybe 5 weeks but the lithium battery only seems to last for a couple of weeks, maybe less but if the charger is faulty maybe it wasn't fully charged at the outset. Interestingly, Jack tells me that the battery never fully discharges but has a safety cut off limit to prevent it from fully discharging. I don't have a battery cut off switch fitted and I don't want the hassle of having to disconnect the battery if the car is not being used for just a couple of weeks. Time will tell and I will see what happens after I receive the new charger and charge the battery again. However, I have modified my old battery tray to bolt back into position using the new rivnuts that I fitted for the lithium battery tray and my old trusty Banner is now fully charged and ready for action if called upon.

Nigel, it sounds a bit back breaking removing from below and dependent on getting the car high enough off the ground ... but you are just a youngster and at your short height of 4' 3" you can run around under the car quite easily If it proves difficult, removal of the roll bar isn't that difficult. My only concern would be whether the replacement tank fits into place without any fettling. Good luck Blue

Boyd and Dave Penny suggest remove upwards via boot but here is some past advice courtesy of Harry Flatters: If you need to remove the tank.... - siphon or pump out as much fuel as possible - remove boot floor, usually a piece of honeycomb aluminium sheet to the rear (this needs care and 'jiggling' to avoid scratching the paint on the top edge of the boot and/or the roll bar) and then the 'plank' to the front. - disconnect filler hose & breather - disconnect fuels supply and return hoses - disconnect electrical connections for pump and sender - from underneath, loosen and remove tank restraining brackets - 1 per side - lift tank from supports and lower left end to the floor so that it is effectively standing on its end and then lift vertically up and out from the boot space. Alternatively, if you jack the car high enough and support on stands. the tank can also be removed from underneath, using the above method. /forum/chitchat/removing-petrol-tank-tips-videos-please

Yes the mounting bracket is a black plastic clip as shown in the photo below but I just attach velcro to mine and it grips the carpet trim. It operates like a large matchstick ... the force is strong with this one young Skywalker

Look no further than Doug at Just Add Lightness, I bought four, one for each car and one for the house https://justaddlightness.co.uk/product/fire-safety-stick/

A few years ago I bought the Halfords one after a lot of research. I have an Evoque so went for the one that copes with 2-3 ltr. engines. I have attached it to the bulkhead of the 7 with velcro and it is topped up via a usb cable through to a power socket in the cockpit. https://www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/jump-starters/halfords-advanced-lithium-jump-starter---up-to-3l-677469.html David