David aka Blue7

Just an update regarding my JWM PS-12-LiFePO4- L-ion BATTERY- It just about lasts 2 weeks if the car isn't used and even my CTEK charger for lithium batteries will not charge it unless I disconnect the battery cables first. My Banner would last 4 weeks. When I bought the battery, Jack Webb said that if I disconnected the battery negative cable it would not require a trickle charger over winter and would hold it's charge. Well I disconnected the cable at the end of October 2022 and I have just reconnected it today and pleased to report that the engine fired up immediately so no drain at all after disconnection for 6 months. David

I think the clue is in the hollow ringing sound amplified within the diff casing

More like a clunk than a tick and sounds like something in the dif' which is making contact with the outer casing and amplifying the sound. If you place your hand on the dif casing while someone turns the wheel you should be able to feel any vibrations / knocking within.

Is this what you require

There is a set for sale here in the For Sale section, Caesar, I think they are the ones he got from me in 2019 /forum/sale/trilock-locking-wheel-nuts My local mechanic tells me they are a waste of time because he can remove them easily with a special wrench he has so any well equipped thief will have such a tool

#3 Wrightpayne is correct I had a number of issues with some fuel stations earlier this year when trying to buy fuel for our back up generator after a power cut caused by storms. One fuel station would not allow me to fill two 5 ltr cans but would allow me to fill one 10 ltr can and you don't get away with filling cans in the boot because they check with CCTV. I think I read that 20 ltr containers must be metal. There doesn't seem to be a hard and fast rule, all fuel stations seem to be different and probably depends on how busy the person is on the till. I carried out a bit of research and I didn't like the negative reports of the metal containers, as mentioned above, petrol contaminated with paint from the inside of the cans. I have issues with some plastic 5 ltr containers because the filler spouts do not seal properly. I eventually went for a 10 ltr plastic container, the spout seals perfectly so I bought a second container. The 10 ltr containers are easier to handle and pour than a 20 ltr container. I bought these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B095SZWBLB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gareth, one final comment, I have had 3 CSR's and this latest 2015 one has had problems with exhaust emissions seeping into the cockpit and nothing at all to do with the half hood. I can't understand it but it isn't always there so I live with it whenever it occurs. Probably not the answer you were looking for other than it happens.

From the photo it does look to be at the wrong angle and is normally pointing slightly downwards, maybe in the 8 o-clock rather than 9 o-clock position looking from the front. Here is a photo of the CSR 485 from CC site. The problem is that the silencer bracket would have to be bent to change the angle, if you just twisted the silencer and refitted it, it might place too much strain on the bobbin.

Jonathan, this is the battery I have https://jackwebbmotorsport.co.uk/JWM-PS-12-LiFePO4-BATTERY-BUNDLE-p250876921?fbclid=IwAR3voQFKn1yrXGnxW528ShCjXMzbrzy5UlmSB-Bb0UgUTi4o0iBs_pefKps I have no problems with it other than I have to remember to connect the CTEK before the 2 week period of none-use of the car otherwise the immobiliser runs it down to a stage where the Low Voltage Protector activates and shuts the battery down to prevent complete discharge and permanent damage. Jack has suggested a battery negative lead isolation switch that would be easier to install, which I am considering. On the plus side, I haven't tested this yet, I am told that if the battery is disconnected over winter it will not discharge so it does not require a trickle charger / conditioner and I would be saving electricity. I have refurbished and modified my old battery tray so that if needs be I can easily bolt it back in place to accommodate the Banner, would you believe that Caterham used 12 rivets to secure the battery tray to the engine bay. whoever fitted it must have decided to use all the rivets he had left David

I recently replaced my Banner with a lithium PS-12 LiFePO4 battery. It required a bit of work to remove the existing battery tray but I managed ok. It is certainly much lighter than a Banner but the problem is that the immobiliser will run it down flat if not used for 2 weeks, my Banner would last circa 6 weeks. It does not actually go completely flat, a sensor within the battery turns the battery off at circa 3 volts but most chargers won't charge it because they think the battery is completely dead. A CTEK Lithium XS charger has a button that overrides the sensor and allows it to charge the battery but only if you disconnect the battery. Other than that I have had no problems with the lithium battery and if I had a cut off switch fitted it would prevent the immobiliser drain. In hindsight, I would not spend money on the lithium battery, I would stick with Banner, which I still have as a back up. David

What day? We saw 11 x 7's heading north just north of Ballachulish Bridge on their way to Fort William circa 5pm on Sunday 11 September. All 7's with hoods up apart from the brave leader going aero. I don't know why they had hoods up in a wee Scottish shower

Good post Doug #24 Finally, I remember a post from several years ago where someone had found some plastic highly mirrored concave reflectors that could be fitted behind the bulbs to improve the rear lights (though these probably affect the E marking status!) Yes, I recall that discussion. circa 2013, I don't recall the description but they were expensive and I wasted money buying two and cutting them to shape. They made little or no difference and after a year had corroded and discoloured, you would get a better result using cheap reflective tape. Having said that it is a bit Heath Robinson compared to what is now available in the form of either Caterham or JAL LED upgrades.

I agree about the red led bulbs, I tried a few different types and they were all useless in clear lenses. It is why I thought Doug's solution of an outer facing card was (excuse the pun) brilliant.

#20 Tim, that also puzzled me and the explanation I received was that the standard lenses were included in the price and the clear lenses were an optional extra so if I selected them, CC would fit them and also supply the standard lenses because I had paid for them. It always amused me as did two dipsticks and a smart green presentation box, which I opened with excitement but ... like the story of The Old Empty Barn" ... there was nothing in it! As a matter of interest, are the new CC rear led lights E marked? Update, the CC website confirms they are E-marked having met European commission regulations and safety standards.

Unfortunately, the legislation is old and outdated. Written in 1986, there are still many things that need to be changed. For example, the legislation doesn’t take new technologies into account. It was written at a time when the idea of replacing one technology for another within the same headlight unit just wasn’t a thing. According to the legislation – in order to get enough light output for a stop light, you would need a minimum of 15 watts. This would make sense for a filament bulb however an LED would produce an immense amount of light at 15 watts. Every time you press the brakes, you would be blinding the person behind you. Perhaps a better way to set the standards is to use metrics that transcend technology. For example, instead of a minimum or maximum wattage, lumens would be a better metric. Brexit 2021 MOT update states: Section 4.1.4 : “Existing halogen headlamp units should not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp.” This is a brand new update that seems to only focus on headlights. There are no mentions to fail other LED bulbs such as brake lights, tail lights or reversing lights. It is an argument that could continue endlessly and I don't have the time or inclination but all I would say is: 1. You are less likely to be 'rear ended' with JAL lights fitted in place of the old dim standard lights. 2. If you were unfortunate enough to be rear ended, the thought of an Inspector Clouseau type insurance agent carrying out a detailed forensic inspection of your rear end looking for E marks or lack of them is IMHO quite ludicrous but I accept that you are entitled to your opinion also. Insurance agents can't be bothered leaving the comfort of their orifices nowadays and just negotiate values over the phone. If you could find a Barrister and the matter went to Court in 10 years time, it could be argued that the JAL lights are in fact superior to some lights with an E mark and it would appear that all countries seem to have a different interpretation of 'E'. I was parked behind Doug (JAL), waiting to begin our journey to the Lancaster taxi run during the 60th celebrations. When I saw his rear lights compared the the 7 parked next to him I was in no doubt that I wanted the upgrade for common sense safety. I am sure Doug has covered this E issue in previous posts. The lights are not E marked so be careful out there

Remoaner? "Our LED panels are manufactured to both ISO9001 and IPC610 Class 3 standard. IPC610 Class 3 is the highest standard possible for Printed Circuit Boards and is often associated with military and aerospace panels. Class 3 PCB’s are defined as; products where continued high performance or performance-on-demand is critical, equipment downtime cannot be tolerated, end-use environment may be uncommonly harsh, and the equipment must function when required."

AKA 'Echo friendly advice'

#13 remarkable, I hadn't realised that correct horizon capability and thanks for the info on v8, 9 & 10 which ties in with a lot of on line comments. I hadn't considered a DJI but may have a look because the one supplied with my drone is certainly remarkably good and reliability is key. I remember the first time we visited Portmeirion, I was so determined to get the footage of entering and leaving the Village that I had 3 cameras mounted on the roll bar, Sony bullet camera, something called an Astak Action Pro and a Go Pro ... and they all worked perfectly ... ! Back to the sound aspect, I have always had my ext. mic. located under the dash and like #7 James, I use velcro strips that stick to the carpet. Of late I have been getting electrical interference so repositioned to the back of the seat but in that position there is a lot of dif. whine so my latest position is just next to the hand brake which seems quite good with no wind noise. It is an interesting location because it picks up cockpit conversation quite clearly. On a recent club run my loved one can be clearly heard reading out the written instructions about preventing convoys, "If you see more than four cars close behind you you should do something about it". In the video I made I followed those words with a clip from the end of the film Where Eagles Dare, where Clint Eastwood smashes the rear window of the coach and machine guns the following vehicles! David

#8 Mark, I assume you just use your authoring software to invert the footage but that is a bit of a hassle. I started videoing back in 2008 with lots of good advice from Angus and I think Teresa who may or may not still be members. I started with a Dog Cam bullet camera and the roll bar clamp was a jubilee clip with rubber protection insert. I recently tried the new GoPro roll bar clamp but sadly there is slight vibration which spoils the video, My most reliable roll bar clamp was purchased through Dog Cam named Manfrotto ... you'll get no droop with a Manfrotto and I won't mention the "V" word From what I have read about the new Go Pro it is waterproof so no need for the outer casing that I use with my Hero 3 but it looks like you need the Media Mod surround to be able to mount it. Maybe I will consider one for Christmas. I dread to think what our esteemed leader Nippy would say if she knew you had been videoing Scotland upside down which puts Scotland down in England and England in Scotland!

It is difficult to see the 3.5 mm port in the video but I think I see it now, so you can use a standard 3.5 mm mic jack connection and use the mini usb port for external power as shown below. The position of the ports in the camera mount section of the video had me confused but I eventually realised that it is an Australian Go Pro or you have the camera mounted upside down ... or maybe I need to make an appointment with Specsavers

Thanks for posting Mark. I still use my Go Pro 3+ because by fitting an additional battery "back pack" it provides me with two mini usb ports, so I can use the Go Pro port for the external mic fitted with the adaptor and the back pack port to provide external power source as ringed in red below. Does that "Media Mod" allow you to fit an external mic and also external power? My recent problem has been interference and loss of audio altogether which I have traced to a faulty mic extension lead so replacement just fitted. Your mic lead seems to be long enough to reach that position wiithout necessity to fit an extension lead. David

Chris, I think the clear lenses look great, far superior to those old fashioned reds If you really want the best look no further than the JAL upgrade, they are amazing! Take a look at the 4th photo https://justaddlightness.co.uk/product/caterham-7-rear-light-cluster-led-upgrade-kit/

Thanks for the link to that discussion, I hadn't thought of looking at the part no. on the sensor and with the aid of a magnifying glass my part no. is slightly different XS508B1NAL2 The photo links no longer work and just show union jacks but I have made a note of the manufacturer Telemecanique. A Google for the part leads to a company in Leeds Farnell and what look like the sensors with M8 width but they would need to be cut to length and connected to a suitable junction box. A Google for my part no. finds them on Amazon at an eye watering price and at a better price at BPX Leicester Thanks for the info, I have made a note of it

Here is a photo of the two, the De Dion on the left has a part no. CAT-SP-0038AK and the CSR sensor on the right had a part no. EMP40-1. My impression is that the De Dion on the left would fit a narrower mounting and is supplied with a larger diameter mounting adaptor (shown above the sensor) into which it screws. I just wanted to know if any CSR owners had fitted it successfully?

I haven't actually tried it so it may work but it looks different in that the end of the sensor is set much further back in it's housing. I just wondered if anyone had fitted it as a replacement and if so did it function ok and did the mounting require any modification.