David aka Blue7

Hmmm, interesting, I think I will suggest that my friend makes inquires about the matter, he has ordered it through Oakmere because the build time is shorter. David

As a matter of interest does anyone know if CC are selling new 620's with the new modification to the cooling system? I have a friend that has one on order so just wondered if he should confirm with CC that the car will have the new modification. David

I assume that "factory recall" for all 620 owners is errr, two dirty words not to be mentioned but just whispered quickly in Latin currum revocare

IMHO the sensible solution is to retain the normal "legal" horn and wire up the klaxton to a separate button / switch for fun use. When I had a klaxton fitted I never used it as a warning blast because it has more of an amusing effect as opposed to a warning effect. Multi tone air horns are different, when sounded together they are certainly a warning tone. I remember the law being introduced in maybe the 60's and as stated above it was to avoid confusion with emergency service vehicles. In reality they sounded nothing like emergency service vehicles and I think the Government of the day were trying to clamp down on unruly youths in souped up Anglias and Minis who were fitting all sorts of horns Colonel Bogie, La Cucaracha, Dixie, Klaxton, Sirens and I recall there was even a "Wolf Whistle" horn for when you spotted a girl or girls in mini skirts ... ah those were the days and certainly not PC today when builders aren't allowed to whistle because of sexual harassment and girls don't even like you opening a door for them because you ain't showing them equality

I used to have a klaxton or oogah horn installed but changed it for triple air horns. They play in sequence and are operated by a different button and I still have duel standard horns fitted, well not standard, they are the snail horns as recommended on an earlier thread. The snail horns are used for warnings and air horns used occasionally for fun eg folk that wave ... so the air horns get by far the most use

Profumo, Mandy Rice and Christine Keeler, what a scandal but actually quite sad and I do indeed remember the "affair". Speaking about being old enough to remember certain things, with regard to the radiator blanking does anyone remember the system which was like a miniature roller blind installed in front of the radiator, you could raise it and lower it by means of a choke type cable fitted to the dashboard. Blanking radiators during winter months was a fuel saving ploy there were some very fancy styles, the best being leather attached to the outside of the radiator grill with two opening options, bog standard cloth cap peasant options were a sheet of cardboard. They went out of fashion when the fly wheel f/ water pump an was replaced with an electric fan that only operated when the engine reached optimum temperature. I remember many occasions driving down the road and seeing steam coming from below the bonnet and suddenly remembering that the radiator was still blanked off Pretty sad that in 2021 a £60k car has to have the radiator blanked to operate normally ... get the finger out CC!

I bought the Halfords version to get L7 Club discount, I have it permanently installed in engine bay with wire through to usb port in dashboard power socket so it is always fully charged. Haven't had to use it yet

I don't understand how rainwater is getting into the plug wells unless a coil cover has not been fitted? I thought all 620S had a coil cover?

Metal against metal should be ok but I would drill a couple of shallow recesses in the stanchion for the grub screws to locate. Alternatively you could just replace the rubber strips with a thinner rubber or build up layers of black insulation tape. David

Richard, I fitted these but no longer use them since I bought the bulk buy mounts https://www.demon-tweeks.com/racetech-single-seater-mirror-247042/?sku=R/PRMRHBLKC&istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=6fbc4b04-fd28-4ce1-8513-835c8f118690&istItemId=wptrtrwpp&istBid=t&gclid=CjwKCAjwuvmHBhAxEiwAWAYj-ETBOOdND8MWfLKD6LSjpPOiP9a-fuaKGQDxWLY0frJ2_GAyiVGzwRoCadgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds I might still have them somewhere, I will check David

They are not a standard off the shelf product, you have to order and the best way is to contact Jon Vicker direct. The email address that I used was: info@millwood-mc.com or jon@millwood-mc.com The David Layle Classic Carbon version is here: https://classiccarbon.co.uk/products/wrap-around-stone-guards

1. For my 4th 7, I chose carbon wings all round and after 6 years on Scottish roads with sometimes quite viscious instances of surface dressing, they have not been damaged below as was the case with previous fiberglass wings and star cracking. 2. I have tried different types of PPF, none self heal but I would always have it applied. On the one occasion I didn't have it applied, the rear wing strips not protected by the standard stone guards were trashed in a matter of months. 3. The best solution for rear wing protection is to remove the standard stone guards and fit the wrap around carbon stone guards from either Millwood or David Layle of Classic Carbon. I bought the Millwood versions a few years ago but had to return them because of what I considered to be poor quality consisting of pin prick type holes and many imperfections in the carbon pattern. To my surprise Millwood did not offer to replace them and to be fair I have seen Millwod variety fitted to another 7 and they look good. I presently have a set of David Layle Classic Carbon variety on order, they have the advantage of extending further up the wing than the Millwood variety and having previously purchased many other carbon products from Classic Carbon, I know the quality is first class. There is an article on page 29 of June Low Flying, with some good information about CF and David Layle explains the different qualities of carbon products. A lot will depend on where you intend to drive the car, up here in Scotland the surface dressing that is applied to repair road surfaces consists of quite large aggregate which is not rolled in to the tar, Bear Scotland just leave it up to the cars to do the job and erect warning signs with 10 mph speed limit ... which does not prevent damage. So my choice is PPF to rear and front wings, nose cone and also the sides plus c/f wings and wrap around stone guards to rear wings. I also spray the underside of the rear wings with underseal to cushion the impact of any stones. David

Thanks Giles

Thanks for the input Giles, I have just queried it with him and he was in error it was as you say R1R and they are no longer available so he thinks he will go with the TR1 David

I have a friend asking for recommendations between the Avon ZZS and Toyo Protege R1, I can't really help because I have only ever used Avon on my 7. Does anyone here have any experience of these two makes of tyres? David

I did have the SBF7 version but found it to be ineffective and a waste of money. I eventually designed my own using the aforementioned black insect mesh which is advertised as waterproof. However, I later designed a different version using 1.6mm thick clear pvc. I used it for the first time with half hood last Friday on a 150 mile journey in atrocious heavy rain. It was absolutely first class, it kept the spray out, kept the heat in and didn't mist up. Here are a couple of photos and I will try to attach a pdf file to the bottom of this post which lists details of materials and design. PDF should be below Draught Excluder Mk3.pdf

How are you hard wiring the pump from the battery, are you connecting the red wire to power and black wire to earth? I don't know what the purple wire does, you think inertia switch? The wiring diagrams posted are all too small to read wiring colours. You said earlier that the black and white wire are for the fuel gauge. In the old days, giving the pump a gentle knock with a hammer sometimes woke it up

Hi David, bad earth problems seem to a common issue with Caterhams so I hope it is as "simple" as that. However, don't overlook basic fault finding procedure which is "did I do something recently that might have caused the problem", which in your case involves checking any wiring you disconnected and reconnected during the engine and gearbox removal. Good luck Blue

David, you had a problem with the pump a couple of years ago prior to going to France, what was the cause on that occasion and could it be the same fault recurring? There was a discussion a while back about CSR fuel pump relays, I didn't think there was one but apparently there is one located in the MFU (Multi Function Unit). Have a look at the link below, NeilCSR posted a photo of the MFU on page 2 of the thread https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/csr-fuel-pump-relay David

I wouldn't like to see all black cars painted blue, because ... black cars matter

To follow up to that ... note these guys feel that although black is black ... they really feel it should be a far superior colour ... BLUE!

In reality, unless your car is brand new, the paint colour changes over time due to exposure to sunlight and other environmental factors so an exact colour code paint will probably not match up. Most reputable paintshops should have sample booklets that allow you to place a sample page alongside your car to get the best match. It can however be difficult because a lot of the shades are very similar. Metallic black should not be a problem, black is black ... as Los Bravos said

Just to add more confusion to fuel issues: Quote from FBHVC: "After an extensive consultation process, the Department for Transport has announced that they will legislate to introduce E10 petrol as the standard 95-octane petrol grade by 1 September 2021. They will also require the higher-octane 97+ ‘Super’ grades to remain E5 to provide protection for owners of older vehicles. This product will be designated as the ‘Protection’ grade". More here, click on "Introduction to E10 petrol" https://www.fbhvc.co.uk/fuels#E10 David

Here is Andy / adcatman solution posted on the old blatchat site so the link doesn't work http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=147379&pn=1&ps=15&c= Caterham Fuel Filler on Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/20184350@N05/sets/72157611953264019/ Two screws to remove the cover 3 Jubilee clips holding the hoses 6 screws holding the outer ring to the filler A little difficult removing the 3 hoses at the same time. Easier to push the main hose off the filler then work the other two off Bag over to prevent quick job becoming long job. 3 spots of weld holding the flap in place. The trusty Dremel comes into its own again Took as much weld out as possible without coming onto the main pipe. Ah ha pesky little thing clear. Finally teased it out with a screwdriver to break the welds Now I can fill up directly from a pump (BE AWARE - Removing the SVA flap is all well and good and to me the Pro's outweigh the cons but just to make anyone aware, when I drive with a brimful tank I get a small trace of fuel down the back panel. The flap obviously does some good in deflecting fuel under acceleration. Additional Notes In my case (2008), Caterham fitted a modified filler neck and cap, the stock codes for the revised parts fitted to my car were: 30T033A Fuel filler neck aero cap only modified £40.00 + VAT 30T032A Aero filler cap black finish 2008, £72.00 + VAT