David aka Blue7

mine were originally attached with 2" wide velcro but I eventually used button head bolts and a treat care of demon graphics

That's interesting, if you have a photo I would appreciate a look? I have re-cycled a pair of old carbon wing protectors as mudflaps so I have even less room at the rear of each wing. Interestingly, the CR500's have better ratings than the ZZS CR500: Fuel efficiency F, Wet Grip A, Noise 70db ZZS: Fuel efficiency F, Wet Grip C, Noise 72db

The problem is that the ZZS replacements for the front is a wider diameter, they are 195x50 compared to the CR500 195x45 so they will not fit under the front cycle wings unless you modify the cycle wing to raise the height.

Yer camera is upside down mate ... or Derek's Ozzy pal is taking the pics Glad you got it sorted and full marks for taking the CSR. It brings back memories of 60th at Donington when I spent a day searching for a replacement front tyre which got trashed due to poor alignment. Good old Quickfit at Ashby De La Zouch had one ... but couldn't put my CSR on their ramps ... too "specialist" they said, so had to get Maggie to lift it up while I removed the wheel I see Jonathan beat me to it ... as usual ... I think he must be hard wired into his laptop

This is what is referred to above, excellent bit of kit, no vibration and sidescreens still open fully. You could try asking in Marketplace or make some yourself with aluminium or perspex. https://www.lotus7.club/forum/chitchat/mirror-mounts

Yes it is puzzling as to what caused the damage, when he phoned me at lunchtime on Tuesday he had just driven off the ferry at Lochboisdale but said he first noticed the problem when reversing up in a car park. The replacement tyre should be with him today and hopefully he can get the ferry to Mallaig tomorrow and meet up with us at No. 7 Bistro, Grantown as arranged. I can then get more information from him. I have to agree with the two comments above, it must have been something no higher than 3-4" from the ground because there is no damage to the rim or wing but it is still puzzling as to why it didn't damage the front tyre also? He couldn't have driven far from ferry to car park so it is surprising that he didn't hear or feel the impact?

I assume it to be a CR500 245/40 R15, which is what I have just sent him as a replacement, I don't think he ever fitted the replacement ZZS 245/40. It should look like this

Now that's what I call security Apologies for hijacking the thread but on the subject of CSR tyres I have a pal traveling to Stornoway in his CSR but is presently stuck at Lochboisdale, South Uist due to remarkable rear tyre damage. I have boxed up my spare rear CR500 and waiting for Parcelforce 24 to collect and deliver to him by tomorrow. The damage is quite remarkable, it looks like something has scraped and damaged the outer wall but left some intermittent ridges and all the holes seem to go inwards. The wheel rim seems undamaged. I just can't begin to guess at what has caused such damage. I wonder if there is a Q spec'd DB5 on the island licensed to shred David

Finlay ... lots of discussion here: https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/tyre-pressure-touring After 11 years with 3 CSR's the ideal pressure is 18 psi COLD, bear in mind that once warmed up the psi will increase by 4-5 psi. BTW I am amazed you still have your wheels after a year in Glasgee ... you must have superglued them on

David, we have a week away in Bonar Bridge in a weeks time with four other 7's, there is bound to be a "spot" of rain so the rain / wind reduction qualities should get tested. As you know, it is not rain that is the problem but the fine spray that gets sucked in through the back. Remarkably, I have only used the half hood once this year and that was to drive back home after a service. My design is a bit labour intensive and could be done cheaper. My original idea was to use velcro strips at each side so that each end could be stretched and wrapped around each vertical roll bar. It would also be possible to attach velcro strip to the boot cover and bottom edge of the draft reducer which would be cheaper than buying poppers from Caterham. However, the velcro would probably have to be sewn in place and Maggie no longer has a sewing machine ... so it might be her Christmas present Update: Just been for a spirited run and the draught reducer seems totally useless at reducing draughts but at 22c I am very thankful However, I am not really bothered about draughts, it's main function will be to prevent rain getting in at the rear when deployed with the half hood and I am certain it will be effective at that ... but some suitable test weather is required. Update 2, just used it on a 120 mile journey home in pouring rain and I have changed my mind, it does reduce rear draughts but more importantly it prevents the fine spray entering the car from the rear. I am working on a Mk 2 version using just velcro on 1.6mm THICK UV COLD CRACK RESISTANT CLEAR PVC SHEETING for WINDOWS BOAT COVERS

Voila! The insect mesh arrives folded so I thought I may have to iron out the creases but not necessary because the creases disappear within a short time once unfolded. The light grey mesh gives perfect rear vision, I did wonder about doubling it up but decided against doing so. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00SJHWMMU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Caterham poppers along the bottom and I inserted an additional one at each end near the roll bar. I used Gorilla tape on both sides of the perimeter and inserted 5mm (internal), eyelets & grommets into the sides and along the top. Warning: don't use cheap eyelets & grommets, most of which are on Amazon, they are carp. Use a reputable brand, I used Hipkiss brand from a ships chandlers on EBay, which made me chuckle because I didn't realise Hipkiss were still in business, I was their Accountant back in 1970, when we first introduced the eyelet & grommet kits in what was then cutting edge packaging ... bubble packs! The punch kit will cut the holes but I used my own tool for punching holes in leather belts ... bought to insert additional poppers in my shower cap. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253399629156 I used velcro ties / strips circa 20 cm long threaded through the eyelets to attach to the roll bar I cut holes along the bottom edge where the seat belt bolts are located but on reflection it doesn't seem necessary because once fitted the screen lifts above the top of the bolts. I haven't tested it yet but it seems pretty sturdy ... while stationary and will easily roll up inside the half hood when not in use. I will try it out on Sunday ... it should at least thwart rear attacks from wasps!

Good point, or I could probably just roll it up / or down, like a roller blind

I have decided to have a go at a DIY version and have ordered 1 mtr. of this flyscreen which is advertised as waterproof https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00SJHWMMU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My idea is to cut it to the shape of the inner roll bars and edge it with Gorilla tape. Then insert poppers in the lower section to fasten onto the existing boot cover poppers that are screwed into the frame for a tonneau cover. Then insert maybe 3 or 4 eyelets & grommets along the top section, through which I will thread velcro straps to fasten around the upper section of the roll bar and maybe a couple more either side to attach to the side roll bars. When not in use it can just be rolled up inside the half hood. Sounds a good idea in theory but no doubt I will encounter some issue ... nevertheless I will give it a go.

I assume it must be "Ian B" with his sumex sunshade but can you actually see through that mesh or does it completely obscure rear vision, which is not ideal. I would prefer David Brown's solution, you will at least have some vision through fly / insect screen https://www.amazon.co.uk/Biocare-Insect-Mesh/dp/B001VCJTZS/ref=sr_1_29?keywords=fly+screen&qid=1565684156&s=gateway&sr=8-29

David, I have been searching for that email from you for hours, thanks for posting ... maybe you could send it again? It could be a handy accessory when we travel down your way ... never required up here of course because we always have such fabulous weather ... not wot like you get doon in Nicorla's wide belt

They are as described and somewhat inaccurately as "draught excluders". Similar very expensive accessories can be found on Morgans and Astons, the mesh is supposed to reduce draught and spray from the rear. I had one but it neither stopped draughts or prevented spray from the rear, all it did was reduce rear visibility. I have re-read your question Gavel but can't really understand where these "leaves / flaps" are? From what I recall, it consisted of two headrest covers joined by mesh? If you want complete protection use the standard Caterham hood ... or man up and "GO AERO" ... humble apologies but I just couldn't resist that one

Hi Finlay I don't have much to add to the above comments. I used to use the fill a bit at at a time until it overflows into the catch tank method which worked ok with my previous 2 CSR's but the present one never seems to overflow so I have reverted to the CC manual method to run the engine to normal operating temperature, switch off and check the level. As David says above it isn't easy to see the oil level on the dipstick. CC probably no longer stock the replacement dipstick so I would recommend that you have one made up. I attach 3 owners notes files, which should probably go into the archives but I'm not certain how to do that. Anyway, Owners Notes 3 provides more detail than the file on Jonathan's link, it includes dimensions for the replacement dipstick and an extract from the CC manual regarding checking oil level. The replacement dipstick is made from 50mm dia. s/s rod, which is 58cm long up to the lifting ring, 24cm. up to the max. level and 21cm. up to the min. level. I store my dipstick in a length of heater hose which I have fastened to the bulkhead ... blue coloured hose to match the car BTW, I have just returned from a week on Harris, never had to use the hood, we met a a few members of the Bentley Club on the return ferry, one 1924 3 ltr and the other 1929 4.5 ltr. The cars are worth circa £300k and £400k respectively! They actually look like the Le Mans winning Bentley Speed Sixes, would you believe they placed our 7 behind the Bentley at the front of the ferry in the open just as a squall came in ... the Bentley had a tonneau cover and I deployed a Lotus 7 brolly. I managed to get some great photos from the upper deck which I will enter for the 2020 calendar, remarkably from above the footprint of the Bentley is about the same as the CSR. Anyway, here are the files, if they don't appear I will have to try and figure out how to insert them, they are pdf files: Edit: a few people have not been able to open these files so here are two methods: 1. If you are using a mouse, right click the file and from the menu that appears select "view image" 2. If you are using a touch screen device, tap the file once then tap again and hold your finger on the file until the menu appears and select "view image" CSR - Owner Notes 1.pdf CSR - Owner Notes 2.pdf CSR - Owner Notes 3.pdf

Robert, I have PM'd you re a resistor David

I would be most grateful if someone could indicate precisely where this resistor is or should be located, is it in the loom somewhere, behind the speedo or at the sensor by the wheel? If possible, a photo would be really helpful David (the Blue7 one)

RFF Thanks for the information, some of which is beyond me, I assume DVM is a Digital Volt Meter. If you have a link to where you sourced the resistor or part number or photo, it would be helpful, otherwise I may accept your kind offer to provide one. However, more importantly, what does it look like and where is it located? You refer to a diagram, I assume it is a CSR wiring diagram, which I think I have somewhere. Shown below is the speed sensor kit, is the resistor located somewhere within the kit, if so where? Rogercsr7: "hope my fault doesn't involve things like resistors, a bit out of my comfort zone" Yes, me too, I'm not sure what they look like or where it is located but I am willing to have a go at replacing the resistor if it is a simple task to do so and solves the problem. I think your problem is likely to be a broken wire but you will soon discover that on inspection. The work around is gauging speed from the Tacho' or satnav and failing that "SWMBO"

RFF can you elaborate and identify the precise location of this resistor and where you sourced the replacement? I assume you have a CSR? You have the same Lotus badge avatar as Yorkshire NE AR but I assume that you are not the same person ... or maybe you are

I have had similar problems with all 3 of my CSR's. I traced complete shutdown on the first one to a broken wire on the sensor where it is attached to the rear axle. The wires are exposed at that point and too thin for me to solder so I just bought and fitted a new unit ... the break was between the sensor and the connection junction box. The intermittent problem has been present with my 2nd CSR and also the present one. Caterham state that it is a bad earth and I was advised to turn on either windscreen wipers or heater blower (only CSR's have the latter ) as a temporary fix ... and remarkably it worked! My present one was supposed to have had the earth mod' carried out when it had to be returned to Caterham under warranty for another problem. They actually did bu**er all, the wiring is just as it was before the car was collected and the intermittent fault persists ... and the wiper / blower mystic meg type quick fix doesn't work on this CSR. For a time I associated it with driving in wet conditions but it happens in dry conditions also. It begins with the needle moving erratically above and below the reading and eventually drops to zero. It sometimes recovers while driving but it always recovers after stopping and turning off the ignition. It always irked me that cars cost £50k+ and yet Caterham have never taken the problem seriously. Getting back to Y NE AR''s problem, it is likely to be a broken wire if it has failed completely and a new unit should get it back to being accurately erratic again

Changed my mind ... the usual irritation, item costs £17 but you get hit with p&p unless you spend up to £20. So I have looked again and gone for cordless Sabrecut which has a storage case and lots of accessories ... and made in Liverpool ... well probably made in China but company address is Liverpool ... and Liverpool are performing well at the moment . Cost £32.99 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07NWTNXXX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks Jonathan ... that's really cheap, can't really go wrong at that price so I will order one. David

Wow ... I have seen something similar with a golf caddy battery but it was after using the quick charge setting on a battery charger. The Noco Genius Boost has a full page ad in every issue of What Car but a lot of reviews criticise it for weight and cost but praise it for power and reliability. Thanks for the links Jonathan