LazerBrain

At the roundabout at the top of the High Wycombe junction of the M40, around 6pm Monday.

Thanks It isn't the valve - which was the first thing I checked as it was the last thing I touched. There was a definite point further round the rim where pushing on the sidewall caused air to escape and I believe I felt the air passing my fingers. I will have a closer inspection of that when I get a chance. I'll get the tyre removed next week by the same tyre place, so I can visually inspect it - and will ask them to take a look and offer their opinion. I don't recall seeing any obvious corrosion on the inside of the rim - but these might be ones which had tyres whipped off and new ones immediately fitted.

I swapped my rear wheels over last night, in preparation for the ReHaB Welsh Blat, for a set with newer tyres on (pre-owned 14 inch A048 185/60) purchased from a fellow BlatChatter who didn't like them.) I had them fitted to my spare Minator wheels a few months ago (by a tyre fitting place used by myself and several BlatChatters for years), and they've been sitting in the garage, inflated to about 28psi since then. Once on the car, I dropped the pressure to about 16psi and set off for the ReHaB meeting. I travelled about 5 miles, warming everything up, at up to 55mph before I started to notice the car didn't feel right, then I heard a slapping noise from the rear right tyre. When I could safely pull over (motorway roundabout leading onto multi lane A road is not the best place to park) the tyre was pretty flat. I crawled 300m to a garage and used the airline to overinflate (in Caterham terms) the tyre to 26psi. It seemed ok, but when I pushed on one specific part of the sidewall close to the rim, it leaked air. I headed back home on side roads and got over half way back before the tyre deflated too much. Without earplugs, I could hear the hiss on each revolution as (apparently) that one section of the tyre was at the bottom. I then crawled the last section home at 10-15mph to change the wheel. So, some potentially noddy questions from me as I've never had this problem before. * Should I bin that tyre? (On the grounds that it got pretty warm and was squished for the last couple of miles.) * What would cause the tyre to not seal at just one point of the rim? (How much is the sealing related to the gunk they use?) * Am I likely to have damaged the wheel by driving with a flat tyre for a couple of miles?

I had a similar 2k idle in the distant past when I had battery problems and bump started the car. Once the battery had recharged and the engine was restarted, it was fine.

I made up a converter box for a battery intercom I was given, so I could use a neckband PC headset (with a pair of 3.5mm jack plugs.) It did the job, but was only used a few times. The intercom used 5 (I think) pin DIN plugs.

It wasn't me, but did your passenger wave at a green/yellow striped 7 later on in the day? I was on the back roads of West Berks in the late afternoon when my gf waved back at a blue vRS.

"Vehicle and Operator Services Agency. The MOT Inspection Manual. Private Passenger and Light Commercial Vehicle Testing". Issue Date April 2013. 1.3 Rear Fog Lamps . . Note: A rear fog lamp is permitted to operate independently of headlamp, position lamp or ignition systems. So, if it is permitted to operate independently doesn't that suggest that it is more usual for it to have some dependency? Reason for Rejection . . f. adversely affected by the operation of any other lamp. I would take this as a test for earthing problems, ie fog lamp pulsing with the indicators, or visibly dimming when brake lights come on. Edited by - LazerBrain on 2 May 2014 13:54:32

I've been hosting this headlight alignment info in my website for a while which may be of assistance.

NB: I'm not familiar with the R400's dash, so some of this is theoretical! Hopefully someone else can help fill in the gaps. The relay click you can hear is likely to be the trigger for a single sweep. Once a single sweep is triggered the motor runs (if the motor fuse is in) until it gets to the park position (which is sensed by the park switch.) This sounds normal behaviour to me. If the gap between clicks in the intermittent mode is too frequent, this is a problem with the intermittent wipe circuitry and is unlikely to be a problem with the motor/park switch/mechanical bits. I would suggest, if possible, trying to isolate the electronic control circuitry from the motor/park switch/mechanical bits to determine where the fault is. If you can determine the connector for the park switch, then it would be great to disconnect it and check whether the switch is open or closed currently (assuming the wipers are parked.) Then power up the wipers and pull out the motor fuse when they are midway across the screen. Re-check the park switch continuity. With the motor fuse out, what can you hear from the relay for the different settings which you expect? Is there any documentation for the intermittent feature - is there any way to change the intermittent time at all?

James Whiting replaced my matrix a couple of years back. I can't remember the price for the parts off the top of my head though.

As you have a voltmeter, I'd suggest taking some more readings. You haven't mentioned if the existing reading was taken with the engine running or not (I suspect not.) Can you take readings from the socket with/without engine running, and directly on the battery terminals with/without the engine running?

Cheers for the wave (green/yellow SuperSport)

I was in the silver Skoda on my way to the office I spotted this 7 near the Moss End garden centre on the A3095 (I think).

Sorry - think she's already found something. Have a BTTT on me.

I'm checking with a friend who is looking for a cheap auto. It might be smaller than what she's after.

Do you need top up amounts or enough for a full oil change?

I wasn't far from there on Sunday morning... 😬 Checking out houses around Knowl Hill and Burchett's Green before AWESOME.

Just checked - he used a MOT station in Feltham last time.

James has taken my car for service & MOT before (though MOT hadn't expired.) I then get a bill from him which includes the MOT. On that basis, if you booked it with him, would it count as "driving to a pre-booked MOT"? I'd suggest giving him a call.

A friend has had her car hit twice whilst parked in the last few months and it's been written off. She's not got a lot of money, but needs to replace the car. The damaged car is a mid-90's Civic auto and has served her well. She's looking for a diesel automatic, preferably something Focus-sized or larger. Ideally within 50 miles of Reading. Budget is £1000 tops. Any blatchatters getting rid of something of this nature?

When did you first notice this, and have there been any wiring changes recently?

Quoting zetec: Problem is even if they sell for 1k , thats an upgrade on a real seven! An extra 5 1/2 horses for 1000 quid? And where exactly would you be planning to mount this extra motor?

Quoting markiebabes: I've used NikWax spray tent waterproofer 😬 I've used this stuff too. I wet the roof first whilst on the car, dried the top with a towel, then sprayed the stuff on. I was in a hurry (I was just about to leave on the ReHaB Welsh Blat!)

Quoting Michael H: Could have been me as well! Oops - sorry Mike!

That would have been 2 remnants of the ReHaB Xmas lights blat. I would either have been in front or behind Paul in a green/yellow 7.