LazerBrain

My mate's wife's car has been written off and he needs to replace it promptly. diesel MPV or estate (he's looked at C-MAX/Focus, and isn't a Vauxhall fan, but is open to hearing what is available.) upto 8 years old mileage around 100k with good service info would be fine £3k He's based near Kettering, but is down in the Reading area about once a week. Anyone have anything suitable they're selling?

Mine is held by a removable cable tie and a velcro strap to the front 'rung' of the passenger seat base. It's out of sight, doesn't rattle and isn't taking up boot space.

Fuel for the 7 doesn't count as a cost.

I helped a ReHaBer do this with an old VW camper fuel gauge which did the same thing. He used the potentiometer to show the gauge moved through its full range, then was planning to leave it on a particular setting for a while to test what happened.

@JK - yes, that's my understanding for the code. 2 digits for the week, 2 for the year. Can't remember where DOT appears on the sidewall - will check. @Cookie Monster - these tyres have been off my car for the last few months, as the tread was v close to the legal limit. I believe that generally tyres are good for up to 7 years. There was quite a noticeable difference to the feel of the new tyres.

Here's a photo of the datestamp I mentioned above: http://www.lazerbrain.com/7img/IMG_3107.JPG

<oops - please ignore - move along to the next comment!>

Any interest...? Going on eBay at the weekend, or will be taken to the tip in a couple of weeks.

From memory, on my A048s the date code is 4 digits in a round ended rectangle. They look hand stamped in, if that makes sense.

As above - these have got some track day life in them for those on 14 inch wheels. Collection from RG6 (near M4 J10), Bracknell, Windsor. Could tape them together if you want to arrange a courier or get a GONADS going. £20 for the set.

I know there are a few V8 Vantage owners on BlatChat... It's really easy to scuff the door sill plates, so I obtained a mismatched spare pair with the intention of getting them sprayed or coated to replace the scuffed originals. Needless to say I never got round to it whilst owning the car and they are now cluttering my loft. The passenger one is in black and has one tiny mark on it (on the outside edge in the centre.) The driver side one is in a dark purple and is more scuffed on the inside edge around the centre. I'll put them on eBay soon, but is anyone interested in the pair for £50 + postage at cost? (Looks like £13 by express 48.) Free collection from ReHaB meetings, RG6 (near M4 J10), Bracknell or Windsor.

Cheers for the wave - I was just heading back from the AWESOME meet.

Spotted in a Shell garage.

Quoting Stridey: If you can stand cheesey American adverts... 'Light Dims' ! I have a set of sample filters from a theatre lighting supplier (picked up in the '80s!) which I use for cutting down light levels from irritating LEDs. My HP Microserver has a massive blue HP logo for a status indicator. A little bit of red filter has cut this down to almost nothing, yet will allow the 'warning' colours to show through. Back to John Aston's comment about the 'econometer' - is this in the speedo or the tacho? There might be a suitable way of stopping it at source.

😬 For most light switches around the home, pushing the lower part of the switch gives more light than pushing the upper part - the dip switch fits with this in my mind. As others have said - it's easy enough to rotate the switch to have it work the way you want.

Primrose in Tony ?

There are a few ReHaB members near Bracknell. I'm in an office near there for part of the week. ..and just spotted you're a member of the ReHaB FB group. Edited by - LazerBrain on 24 Jul 2014 14:25:25

Quoting Jonathan Kay: For some reason both tests found that performance of iOS apps was better than that of Android apps. Possibly due to the small variation in hardware of iOS devices compared to Android. The Android app I used was fine on my Samsung Ace 2, useless on the Ace 3. The app author said he didn't have calibration data for either, so the Ace 2 must have been lucky! I bought a sound level meter from eBay for just under £20 instead.

Thanks for the wave - some great roads round there.

You should've dropped in Ian - you wouldn't have been much later than me!

An update on my exhaust... The exhaust was removed from the car, and the cracked tailpipe to silencer weld was repaired by fellow ReHaBer Ian Reynolds It behaved a bit oddly when welded initially - the weld seemed to be balling up and shrinking away from the metal. fixed tailpipe to silencer weld The tailpipe bracket was bent, but is still not at the right angle to be bolted vertically to the bobbin. A new rear bracket has been fashioned from a piece of Wickes restraint strap. The pre-drilled holes were in the right place and just needed a little widening. The exhaust now sits around 30mm further out from the car body and is not under the tension it was previously. tailpipe bracket It all sounds a whole lot better now. 🥰

I agree with the twisted comment, but this is the standard silencer - the 4:1 is inside the body, so just a single pipe comes out. The angle cannot be adjusted as far as I can see due the single pipe fitting already having the bend. This goes straight into the silencer, so no options to alter the angle. Here's a poor photo (I always seem to take photos featuring the non-exhaust side...) which should illustrate my point here Sorry K7ROB, hope the thread hijack contains some useful info for you too! Edited to correct link. Edited by - LazerBrain on 2 Jun 2014 21:00:24

Annoyingly I have found no photos of the old bobbin configuration. Here's the current rear mounting, showing the sideways stress on it here and from a different angle (reflection in the body is useful!) So, the previous config had the bobbin screwed into the body, the existing bracket rotated 180 degrees so it became the right height for the tail pipe bracket, then the 2 brackets bolted directly together.

I'm in a similar position. Current silencer is blowing from the join to the tail pipe. Previous silencer (which I believe was the original on my '97 1.6 SuperSport) failed the same way a few years back. Mine is also supported on bobbins front and back. My concern is that the tail pipe bracket is angled compared to the bobbin attached to bracket on the car. The first pipe failed a couple of years after I switched round the bobbin - originally the bobbin was screwed into the car, with the bracket on the end then bolted to the tail pipe bracket. The bracket is now attached to the car, with a bobbin attached to it vertically, then the tail pipe bracket over that. I wonder whether this is placing more stress on the join? Is would also make more sense to me if the tail pipe bracket were directly welded to the silencer instead...

Spotted hood up and heading towards Bracknell, as I was heading away from the office in the tintop.