DanRo

That is a lot of rust for 9 months of use, although great that you are using the car. If you were out over the winter, it may have been exacerbated by road salt. It would be worth having a look under the car too, to see if anywhere needs attention. There are hard to reach areas alongside the pedal boxes where muck gets in and if that’s mixed with salt, it can cause big problems. It’s usually the areas exposed to grit and stones which lose some coating and then it starts to spread. If re-powder coating is not your plan, It’s possible to sand and spot treat areas with either Por15 or Simonez tough satin black paint, though it will look like a touch up job, unless you’re a dab hand. Better than rust though and if done in time, you only need small amounts. As mentioned, once treated, rubbing down with anti-corrosion fluid like ACF50 will help prevent re-occurrence.

Excellent suggestions both. Thank you. I’ll see what can be achieved and update the thread.

I have an issue with my SLR exhaust header no. 2. When Millwood fitted it to my car, because it is a K series in a metric chassis and not an SLR, Eric heated and bent the pipe a little so it passed under the chassis diagonal. It has occasionally resonated on overrun so I knew it was marginal. Following a recent engine out procedure, it’s ended up tighter up against the rail. Ultimately, I will need to get it looked at but as a temporary measure, I have pulled the silencer box in towards the side skin by moving the bobbin to the inner hole on the rear bracket. This has given me a fraction more clearance but does put a little tension through the system, which isn’t ideal. I also thought of slipping some shim washers under the right hand engine mount with the aim of rotating the engine about the LH mount and lowering the header stack very slightly to create a little more clearance under the diagonal for the No. 2 pipe. It would be 2mm washers, that’s all my air box above will allow I think. I wanted to ask on here whether there are any thoughts on this. I don’t want to create more issues than I solve. photo below taken from above Thanks in advance. Dan

I stretch it round the front wishbone and hook it back on the first loop of the cover, where the elastic runs through.

Pm sent Chris Dan

When I removed mine to check the foam, which was absent, and drill gasket holes, I used Loctite when replacing them. Didn’t know if it was correct but intuition suggested it might be sensible. The only thing I wondered was whether it would bond, given the oil which, despite my cleaning efforts, was in all of the threads. It was irrelevant in the end because both were subsequently removed by Dave Andrews for bottom end work and I’m sure he would have done whatever is best when re- fixing.

Mine seems to go onto the sides of the transmission tunnel where it performs a secondary anti-corrosion function.

Hi Mark That looks like my Ford Type 9 box.

I may be wrong but I think that PGM and Premier Power both use Northampton Motorsport’s RR.

Hi Malcolm Can I take the tool container. I’ll send you a PM. Thanks Dan

Hi Steve In the website menu, go to Guides > Maintenance > Front Hubs, Lack of Lubrication. I didn't check #6 post but I assume the LF article will be the same as this excellent guide by Geoff Brown. Not a difficult job, hardest thing is removing the split pin I find. Cheers Dan

I used POR 15 initially but found it was hard to manage all of the stages in tight places and the waiting times between. It has also peeled in some areas. I'm sure it's ultimately the best product but I've taken to painting Simoniz onto bare sanded metal, sprayed into its own lid as a pot, because it's easier and I'm under the car each winter so can redo when necessary.

Apologies for the thread creep but on the subject of spherical bearings, is lubricating them useful preventative maintenance and if so, is there an ideal lubricant to use.

This is a great looking car, and no dealer mark up. I bet that engine really zings. I can only say that I wish it had been available 4 years ago. Good luck with the sale.

Sorry, that link seems to take you to the LF search. Try this one

Sorry Neil Here is the Link I needed a bit of extra info from Paul due to ineptitude. Message me if needed and I can give you more detail on what I did. Dan

I've just done the mod, with some advice from a kind Paul Richards and his LF article. It has worked a treat. Symptoms started as occasional non-starts when cold or hot and a quiet click from behind the dash. They progressed to a slow turning starter and then a proper hot starting problem in France in June this year. Following the mod, I've had absolutely no starting issues, including at a track day this week. I've just done a track day this week and all starts were fine.

Thank you John

Thanks John That's very kind. I'll send you a message. Dan

Thanks Nigel, will do. John - not for IVA, a 2010 car. It looked a bit neater with a trim strip. I could finely touch up the silver cut surface with paint, which may make it look better.

The rubber surround to the side exit hole left the car at speed yesterday. Does anyone know of a source of trim for the hole or even what I might search for? My archive and internet searches have drawn a blank, other than circular ones. Mine is a rounded square. TIA Dan

My 1.6k had a transmission shunt and clunk when I bought it. It was easy to kangaroo at low speed. I learned to drive around it, partly by twisting my right foot slightly into the footwell side to reduce throttle movement when it happened and by trying to be ultra smooth on the controls. After a time I managed to avoid it happening to often and it stopped being a problem. I had some engine mods done including a new ECU and it disappeared instantly. What I had assumed had been a mechanical issue appeared to be resolved with different engine mapping.

2nd dibs if Mark doesn't take you up for any reason. I'm at Donington Park tomorrow so could collect pm.

Thanks

Mine wasn't one of them Rob but I have been there a few times in it. Do you happen to know if the cafe is back up and open after the fire there?