DanRo

Like you Mike, I didn't like the idea of using the half hood side strap eyelet as what would effectively be a poorly fitting spacer on the roll bar securing bolt. Until I worked out what to do I thought I'd use a cable tie to secure the strap through the triangular hood strut eyelet. I haven't worked out what to do yet, but I've used the hood several times whilst trying and it's been fine.

I have only ever had a lighter flywheel on mine so I can't make a direct comparison to a standard set up. What I do notice, compared to a non-Seven, is that the extra engine braking enables speed to be adjusted with the throttle, to a greater extent. This allows smoother progress on a twisty road because I'm not having to move between 2 pedals so frequently. It also makes the car's attitude more responsive in cornering, although it can tuck in a little alarmingly, if I have to come fully off the throttle mid-bend. I think the videos are great Stu. The more of these films there are available, the more many of us will develop the confidence to have a go at stuff.

Very useful, thanks Jonathan i have had a few K click experiences but they seem randomly distributed between hot and cold starting. My 3 cranking voltage measurements during multimeter investigation were all below 10.5. Also measured between starter solenoid and earth, which was 8.2V during cranking, although this was an isolated measurement. Perhaps the culprit is the battery. (with apologies to CTRMint for the thread hijack)

Jonathan Would you mind giving figures for the 3 voltage readings? I have often found reference to resting, cranking and 3k revs voltages being indicative of battery condition in the archives. I have struggled to find figures for minimum heathy voltage during these 3 actions. thanks v much Dan

Hi Nigel Mine is a K series so can't help with engine info but on the tyre side, earlier this year I went from 140 to 190bhp. I decided to keep the 185/60/13s all round to see how I would get on, as I loved the balance with that set up. Having spent all summer driving it like that, I have no plans to go for wider tyres. Having to be more considered with my right foot has made driving more interesting. I haven't had any traction issues, although I have been careful on greasy roads. Good luck with the mods. Sounds very exciting.

Grrrrr! I should have posted about it sooner but I had only just recovered from humping 400 bottles into my living room.

I hope this will be of use to others - I have just ordered some of this for my K series from GSF. It was a 'bargainous' £2.57/litre but the offer only applied to 1L bottles, not 5L. The offer is on for the next 2 days apparently.

Thanks Roger That's useful to know.

My view on the 5 speed Julian: I have a standard 5 speed and a very revvy K series. 1st is too short, no doubt. I don't do racing starts so it's rarely a problem though. 2nd and 3rd are ok for me, In 3rd it does an indicated 90mph at 8k, probably closer to 80 in reality, but this does allow much of the overtaking to be completed in one gear. I would like 4th to be a little shorter. It's often the gear I sit in when I'm waiting, anticipating an overtake; so if I can nip past in 4th, I do. In these cases, the overtake would obviously be quicker if the ratio were a little lower. I quite like having the over drive 5th. I knock it into this on flowing roads at a constant speed, as well as motorways, but also sometimes on the straights on track days, to give the engine an easier time. This would still be possible with a lower 5th though. I have driven a 6 speed SLR, which was brilliant, and I don't doubt I would prefer that box on my car. It's likely I would aim to alter my 5 speed ratios though, because it's so much more affordable. A longer first and shorter 4th maybe, but I would definitely take advice from club members and transmission specialists before committing what would still be a decent chunk.

That was my approach also. I fitted 2 brake lights from JAL and they have been faultless. Very helpful advice from Doug about purchasing a sub-loom too.

People have probably seen this already but it makes the hairs stand up for me, even after a good few viewings:

How did the blat go Brett? if you happen across any gems around the area, do let me know. The road between the A281 at Cranleigh and Hascombe village was one I enjoyed yesterday evening. A couple of tight corners which flow very well.

I have had to resort to leaving the county because of the volume of other road users. In Hampshire, turning off the A31 onto a circuit of the A339 northwards from Alton, and turning left immediately before the M3 onto the B3046, to then return circuitously back to the A31, is one I have enjoyed a few times. You can drive across the A31 at this point and down to the A272 as a continuation, although this road is often busy also. One short but very sweet section of road is Stoner Hill. Leave Petersfield at its western end and follow the road called Bell Hill, attempting to ensure no-one is in front of you as you head out of town. The bends are tighter than they appear on approach....

For those of us with K series cars, Andrew, Dave Andrews and others have offered so much free advice in my short time in the club. It's been invaluable and very reassuring to have available.

I admire your sang froid Finmac. Hope you find what you are looking for. Ks have lots to offer!

It was the wrong size for me Wobbly. I don't know about Paul. Dan

Hi Ben PM sent thanks Dan

I have one also, if Alastair's isn't suitable. I'm in Guildford. Mine is is good condition, with a cat and stainless heat shield.

I have a heater and have driven the car in heavy rain with the roof and heater on. On these occasions, I've never experienced an issue with water coming in through the vents to my knowledge, nor any effect of water on the heater following the trips. The top of my heater unit has a seal running around which looks like it will be flush with the underside of the bonnet and thus limit any water ingress.

Nothing more frustrating. I bet the swearing was impressive!!

Tim Are you using the long nose pliers as a lever, as you might a flat head screw driver, or is there another knack to using them which is specific to pliers?

I used a cheap one from Euro car parts for my standard rear pads. It took quite a bit of heft to turn it but it worked ok. My main worry was to avoid damaging the fixed brake lines whilst applying the force needed.

Brilliant Andrew. I wish I could follow it, but it's way above my head. I do hope you don't suffer too much with C19.

I did this on a Type 9 last weekend. I used a 10mm Allen key, cut to a short stub with a dremel (lots of sparks). This enabled the filler plug to be loosened from under the raised car and I could then just turn it with outstretched fore and middle finger to remove. I used a small 100ml syringe with a rubber tube attached to progressively suck out just over a litre of oil. I managed to poke it into the hole with a small screw driver and lots of bad words. The Sealey Oil Syringe and tube I had bought for this purpose was useless. From the engine bay, I then used the useless Sealey to poke down the slot beside the bell housing and a pair of curved pliers to stuff its tube into the filler hole. I was able to use the Sealey as a funnel to fill up with Redline MTL. Worryingly, less appeared to go in than had come out by the time it started dripping from the filler hole. Re-screwing the plug also needs some bad words to achieve, just make sure you look at the angle at which you offer it up, relative to the thread. Also remember a head torch, so you don't need to do the above with a torch in your mouth; it inhibits swearing. Having driven the car yesterday, I think the change is more rifle bolt like, but I'm prepare to accept that this might be subjective.

When I did mine, I used these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5mm-3-16-A2-Stainless-Steel-Split-Pins-Clevis-Cotter-Pin-DIN-94-20-100mm-/232192105017?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 Note that I have the later bearing assembly with the larger castellated nut and no dust cover to remove as my car is 2010 - see pic