DanRo

Very well described Brian. Very sorry to hear why you have to sell and I hope it goes to a good home.

I can't answer your specific question but when they mapped my car, I asked Northampton Motorsport to remove my old Rover immobiliser and wire in a key switch one for the Emerald under the dash. I'm sure it would cause a proper thief only a brief delay but I was worried the Rover one might cause issues if it started malfunctioning due to age.

Here are a couple of pictures of one I cut with a dremel. It worked well. I think the plug is often tight. The tape is to reduce scratches on the chassis rail. I used an oil pump to drain it and a large oil syringe body as a funnel to fill from above. Patience is definitely a virtue in the process. There is another recent thread on it from a few months back.

There is no fuel available on-site at Castle Combe, unless it's been introduced since I last was last there. As Gulfseven says, it's only 10 min away though. Hope you enjoyed the day!

Heading towards town just after 4 pm today. I was wandering around St Marie's, having a look at where I used to go to school. I didn't get out onto the road in time to have a good look at the car, but I was still jealous, given the weather.

I have them. They work brilliantly. My car came with them and the carbon seems unmarked by stones over the 13 years they have been on the car. They have gone a little milky on one side but nothing major. The main thing has been no touch ups needed on the rear wings and no mud flaps required. I don't know why they aren't standard fit.

To conclude this, I used all the advice above, removed the sandwich plate and checked and tightened everything. I took the first blat of the year this evening with no apparent leaks. Thanks to Stu, Paul, SM25T and John for the advice. It was slightly awkward to line up the plate and re-thread the hex nut (26mm socket needed for this). It took a few goes for me to be happy that the seal was evenly positioned. Think Automotive tech dept couldn't say which seal I needed but when I took it out it looked good so cleaned it up and put it back. If anyone knows which one is required, it would be useful to know for the future, for all of us Apollo users. I did spot a minor gash in one of the oil hoses which run through the spinning alternator belt, where the belt had nicked it. I was able to re-position the hoses to run slightly more centrally through the belt. Still a hair raising position for them though!

Thanks John.

Thanks SM25T.

Thanks Paul. I'll get in touch with them tomorrow

Thanks for your reply Stu, is much appreciated. That's great info, apart from having to drain my new oil .

Hi all I started the car today for the first time since October and whilst checking for leaks, I found one. Oil is dripping from the union between the Apollo sandwich plate and the oil filter housing. It's the opposite side of the plate from the oil filter. I have attached a pic (hopefully). I was told about a leak there by a specialist a couple of years back and he said he had tightened it. He said when the oil filter is done up, over time the opposite side of the plate can become loose and cause a leak. I can't see how I would tighten this. There is an Allen headed bolt in a sunken housing close to and at a right angle to the offending union, but it appears tight and probably unrelated. Do I need to remove the oil filter and if so, is the solution obvious when I do? I did investigate how to do this last time I changed the oil filter but couldn't figure it out. I can't did any specific references in searches. Any advice very welcome. Dan

Thanks for the reply. That looks good. I'll wait to see if I can buy through Redline on Monday and otherwise order that one.

Whilst checking pad wear and lubricating the slider pins, I have cross threaded a slider pin securing bolt. Does anyone know the part number for new slider pins and bolts? I have emailed Redline but I believe there may be a delay their end at present. Thanks in advance

Understand that Ian. Thanks for your reply.

Hi Ian Does that mean you may sell your 6 speed? If so, let me know. I am having thoughts about going the other way. best Dan

That's the one. It's tricky to get it out, requiring a cut down allen key or similar method. It can seem like it will never go back in but patience and a methodical approach does work. The oil can then be sucked out with a pump or oil syringe (which didn't work for me). I did use the Sealey oil syringe as a sort of funnel, to refill it from above. I believe you can take the top plate off to do it, although I haven't. There's info available with a search. I have a cut down Allen key, which you are welcome to borrow, if you are anywhere near Guildford. Dan

I have a litre bottle, wedged upright if open, for track days or longer trips.

Hi Greg I have always used Comma 5w50 on my 1.6k.

Great tips, thanks. I'll need to give mine some TLC before the end of hibernation and yours look like I will want mine to. It's the stubborn tarnishing on the end pipe which I struggle to remove with Autosol. A previous recommendation of Harpic was good but not curative.

#3 - I have done this on my leather seats. It was slightly strange at first but I wear the crutch strap all the time now. I much prefer it and I don't feel safe without it. I won't go into too much detail but there is a bit of re-arranging necessary when you drop into the seat, to get comfortable before you cinch up the belts.

#3 - I have done this on my leather seats. It was slightly strange at first but I wear the crutch strap all the time now. I much prefer it and I don't feel safe without it. I won't go into too much detail but there is a bit of re-arranging necessary when you drop into the seat, to get comfortable before you cinch up the belts.

Like you Mike, I didn't like the idea of using the half hood side strap eyelet as what would effectively be a poorly fitting spacer on the roll bar securing bolt. Until I worked out what to do I thought I'd use a cable tie to secure the strap through the triangular hood strut eyelet. I haven't worked out what to do yet, but I've used the hood several times whilst trying and it's been fine.

I have only ever had a lighter flywheel on mine so I can't make a direct comparison to a standard set up. What I do notice, compared to a non-Seven, is that the extra engine braking enables speed to be adjusted with the throttle, to a greater extent. This allows smoother progress on a twisty road because I'm not having to move between 2 pedals so frequently. It also makes the car's attitude more responsive in cornering, although it can tuck in a little alarmingly, if I have to come fully off the throttle mid-bend. I think the videos are great Stu. The more of these films there are available, the more many of us will develop the confidence to have a go at stuff.

Very useful, thanks Jonathan i have had a few K click experiences but they seem randomly distributed between hot and cold starting. My 3 cranking voltage measurements during multimeter investigation were all below 10.5. Also measured between starter solenoid and earth, which was 8.2V during cranking, although this was an isolated measurement. Perhaps the culprit is the battery. (with apologies to CTRMint for the thread hijack)