Iamscotticus

@Gridgway How has the axle been? TBD a an improvement? Did Hardy encounter any welded berring issues?

Oliver, How did the axle beating go? Anyone: Where were the reconditioned academy Itals welded? the bearing to the housing or the bearing to the half shaft? James Whiting's horror stories pages shows a half shaft that broke from being subjected to welding. www.jameswhiting.com/page17.html http://www.jameswhiting.com/halfshaft%20001.jpg

I've been wanting to refresh the Spax dampers on my 96 Live Axle. Road use only. Chusy velour HPC seats. Are the Bilstiens the way to go, in the USA? Part numbers please?

Try this? Jaguar E-Type Series 2 Alternator Heat Shield 4.2 Petrol 1968-1971 C25812 | eBay

I see exhaust manifolds with cap head bolts..... I had them until after an accident (not too bad) I realized what a pain it would be if those bolts sheared off. Im going to studs for that reason. Ugly, yes, but better than extracting on the head.

Is there a question here?

Not at all, Thanks for doing the work!

Should this seal, and others like engine mains, be soaked in thier respecive oils before installation?

Is this a sender giving correct resistance?

Is this a sender giving correct resistance?

I specified Xflow/T9. Thank you anyway.

Can anyone give a report about this shifter extension? Where does it place the shifter on a Caterham LC Classic Live Axle Imperial Universal chassis, Crossflow/T9 with or without the 1" spacer? Pic credit Matt Lewis Racing

Apologies for the upload orientations.

Thanks, Stu and I hope you're right. A few things I haven't said yet. The car has sat for the last 10 years. Of those, about 4 years in a shed about 100 yards from water, relocated temporarily for a hurricane, stored again a few more miles inland but still endured another hurricane and the flood of the century, three floods that came close to the car but didn't. This car is very lucky to mot be destroyed by now. I have just barely managed to keep it above water wherever I've kept it. I live in a very humid and stormy place, Houston Texas. This is a horrible city to own a 7. I wasn't living there when I got it, I followed a job there. but I truly love the car and its staying.

I think something has been lost here, The exterior isn't the issue, I want suggestions what to use inside the frame tubes to stop and prevent rust. Many products claim to prevent future rust, but they don't claim to stop the present rust. No assumptions here. So far, by reading labels and claims , it appears that only a phosphoric acid solution converts rust to a different element and stops the progression. My current thinking is to first do a phosphoric acid wash internally, dry, repeat, dry, prep and paint exterior with a zinc primer and a top coat of POR15, then apply an internal waxy preventative like Waxoyl or Cosmoline. That seems like a lot of trouble but my 7 is probably the only one I will ever have.

Yes a set of wooden stands would work. I read the details of many wasy rust inhibitors that prevent further rust, but they don't claim to convert surface rust like an oxidation (rust is oxidation). whatever it does, it turns rust black and claims to stop the process like these: Corroseal Permatex 81849-12PK Evapo rust FDC Rust Converter Ultra https://www.carbibles.com/best-rust-converter/

I am seriously considering it. I must do all I can to preserve the frame. Thankfully, other than a bent lower basket stay, all is in good order. Engine is coming out for a refresh and a T9, fuel tank for clean out, axle for paint and possibly a LSD and Rakeway kit, if they make more. Very busy, shaping up the frame seems logical. No frame, no car.

Hello, Im sure this has been covered ad nauseam. I have neglected my 1996, storing it in less than ideal conditions, in sheds on concrete slabs, but in humid environments. As expected, much of the Powder Coat (PC) is not good. I have to do something to stop the spread, especially internally so 1246 can live on. At this time, I not a fan of PC. Partly because I would rather be able to spot repair a painted surface for chips, damage, alterations, etc. Painting is the easy decision. Black or grey is the hard paint decision... What I have to decide is how to treat the frame inner surfaces? I have read glowing reports for products like WoolWax, Dinitrol, AFC50, Rust Encapsulator, Chassis-In-One, Cosmoline RP-342, and good old farm equipment MARC Rust Away. Too many to list all of them. I need to choose a treatment that will flow to all points, work on existing internal rust regardless the severity, without any prep, prevents future corrosion and is paint safe or paintable, if necessary. Which is another point, to treat internals before or after external painting? If I paint the exterior first, then I can use almost anything internally. If I use a paintable treatment inside first, if it doesn't interfere with painting, it may not be the most effective treatment. If I use a waxy treatment inside first, It may be the most effective treatment, but seepage may interfere with exterior painting...Therefore, is painting the exterior first then treating interior with a waxy creeping coating the way? I need to get some opinions. Arch is a hop across the Atlantic so Im doing this project myself. I can build a chassis rotisserie for the project. Rub the frame with spices and bake it. Lemon herb....mmmmm

Thank you, Jonathan. Also, I wonder why the seal& gasket kit is called a "conversion" set?

I am hearing the basic Petrol is all the same so multiple undetground tanks isn't necessary, The mixing of the additives is done at the pump.

I hope this will be around for a long time. Its not my material, I just found it in a search. http://www.escortevolution.co.uk/forums/topic/149332-mk2-cortina-1600e-crossflow-engine-reconditioning/

I see a ring in an illustration in Tony Weale's book, pg 162, There is a small double lipped ring between the "Crankcase emission valve" (looks like a check valve) and the "Oil separator" (standard 1600 item)

remove an air valve from the stem and compress the tyre down with weight or against a board with a ratchet and strap. where the side wall bludge and creases, inspect for signs of cracking. If the rubber has lost enough elasticity to split, I wouldn't trust them.

I know this is not a polite answer, but its has some truth... If you know they are old, and don't know exactly how old, don't trust them. Buy new rubber. Safety, first.

Similar situation here with a 1996 XFlow. I think your strip down and service chassis is the best course. Nothing else matters if your frame is all crumbling with rust. Remember the grot trap, the section at front sides of foot well between outer skin and inner panel that collects dirt and whatnot...Must have the frame cared for...