Iamscotticus

Sorry, I wasn't using the right compooters.

This is a niggle for me as well. I woll be going the series 2 route with a vertical fill pipe under the boot. A side filler cap? Its a ridiculous idea! Like screen wipers!

I don't see any tools for attaching pics

Hello, I have a seal and gasket set for 1600 Crossflow. Its a Clough & Wood DEH750 Conversion Set, Ford. UPC 5024992020506. There is a small black metal ring I don't know what for, Distributor? Inner diameter is .5 inch.

Hello. Shopping for LSD for a Scholarship Ital axle. The LSDs on Matt Lewis Racing, and perhaps other sellers, resemble Quaife ATBs. The price is almost half. Tempting... Can anyone give a report? http://www.mattlewisracing.co.uk/product.php/2860/1105/limited_slip_differential__triumph_herald_spitfire_tr7/0fcec4e2aa2665fe0f13538b7d0e327f

Hey, @OliverSedlacek did you ever get a LSD in? @elie boone you have me thinking my 96 scholarship SP worked Ital is bullet proof against the 100 hp Xflow. But I still think a LSD would be an improvement. Any advice? Thanks for the links.

Do we know the PCD for Ford? I have a spare set of alloy hubs I bought when I didn't know the difference between Leyland/Ford items.

Caterham Recommends Mobil1 on my engine plaque. Mobil1 fan boy here, but I too have read about the zink. I think it would depend on the build spec. Perhaps a "run-in" oil with high zinc for a short time after a build fo the tappets and cam to bed in?

Monel rivets, anyone?

Time doesn't matter to Sevens. We're just borrowing them anyways.

To revive this thread, and answer I question, Obviously, a Ford rear would demand a set of front ford hubs. How did Caterham go about this? What Ford was cannibalized for the purpose?

Auyt, you may want to look into the differences in clutch cover "fingers" as the curved face T-9 release bearing, prefers "straight fingers". I don't know if the supplied cover has those fingers. https://lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=26074&start= http://www.enfostuff.com/forum2/viewtopic.php?t=223 Perhaps someone more fluent will pop up.. Either way, an email to the men at RedLine components would know.

Hi Paul. I don't have an answer but being an IMP S3 myself I find this very interesting. Assuming you have a live axle, did you change axles and cannot use the A frame? Or done with changing bushings?

No, I never found the 711M cast. It would have been easy enough to see, above the starter, based on a photo. Im happy enough to have an AX lump. I think I want to build up the lower end to ensure it never grenades. Not that I drive it hard or compete, I can only afford one seven. I would be semi-aggressive street/road. Im not entirely sure if I want to overbore to 1700. I would never be able to sell it to the vintage FF people, if it were to come to that. It may be possible to come close to 1700 performance without the overbore? I would remain less "square".

Any conrod upgrade? As long as the pistons are out...

Eric, fellow 1600 Sprint lump here, you've been out voted. 234. But, something that isn't being argued here, you never said you intended to upgrade to 1700. How can anyone claim a 234 will be better in your 1600 when they are happy with it in their 1700s with uprated pistons and springs? I am not yet convinced a 234 is justified in a 1600. As many have stated, especially Roger King, that the rest of the engine needs to be built up to support the bigger cam. This is why the A2 was/is a good choice for a low spec engine. It gives plenty of low end pull in a basic tune that remains a reliable driver. Im not saying the 234 isn't worth doing, but getting the most out of it, you might as well do the whole race tune, machined pedestals, iron crank, pistons, etc. Oh, and while you're at it, 1700! The upside of doing all this bottom end work is you will be able to try all the cams you want till you find the one! What a hole! I want to pep up my Sprint as well, but I have to be concerned with that Ital rear end and how much it can take. Perhaps a map is the better route? The maps seem to help out a lot. These are really light cars. Throwing more "power" into them change the character of the handling. I still like the idea of the Super Sprint, but before all that investment, I will try a map on the A2. If that doesn't do it, a 234, map and dual springs that will clear. If I still need pistons, then its full race or back to the A2. Also, there are other cam profiles like Pipercross that will work in a road engine.

Bump. This is still a very good subject: 234 or 244 for a road only seven? Will see a lot of time averaging 60-75 Mph (96.5-120.7 Kph) and see a lot of sierra box overdrive on tall 13" wheels.

A cover for the new shifter location, as you most likely will not use the old 4spd shifter extension linkage. The knob position will likely be just under the cluster panel tube. Annoying, for sure, but workable. How have you gotten along with that conversion? I need the clutch pressure plate part number.

I have a paper from when I took the casting notes. I definitely have "95 AX" on there, but I thought I had 711M as well. I didn't know there would be a discrepancy over the presence of both. I will have to look at my notes again to confirm and get back to you. I am interested in converting to 1699cc because one of the cylinders has a rust ring from when previous owner let it sit and seized. the cylinder was honed, but the ring is still evident. Im not sure if it will affect tuning much and minor uneven throttles on one of my DCOEs is still an issue. The car is going to get a top to bottom "cleaning up" with a few upgrades. I would like the displacement at 1700, if parts are available, a 234 cam or mid-range streetable equivalent, T-9 box and Quaife ATB LSD in the Ital diff, to be in the works. I recently read the refurb Itals for the scholarship cars have welded bearings to fix a wheel loss issue encountered in competition. Fun. Who would be the go-to for the 1700 pistons and rings? I have the T-9 and bells, a Tilton roller rocker set, and shortened drive shaft. I might have the clutch plate. Thanks, you guys are great! Scott, Houston, TX

Im no smart guy expert but I do remember that as these are bronze welded chassis (ARCH anyways), That too stiff a bushing material will transfer too much stress to the chassis. the softer rubber bushes are recommended., although replaced more frequently.

Are the suspension bushes, (Y-*), sourced from use on another make? Leyland? Ford?

I would like to piggy-back here. I have a Caterham built AX 711M lump with a deck stamp of "SAMCOR RAK1192". I believe it was a South African sourced equipment engine, one of the last. The rocker cover is the familiar black cast alloy with "SUPER 7 SPRINT". The engine is fitted with an Aldon distributor and Escort Mk1 4 spd and 4>2>1 exhaust. I purchased the engine separately from the chassis, so there wouldn't be any relation to VIN. What I would like to know is if I can identify the displacement and cam based on this spec? I want to upgrade this motor but I need to know what I have first. Thanks, Scott

The bells my be, but that's not what i need to know. I need the input shaft length.

Gents, I have an Xflow (96 Caterham Classic) now mated to the escort box. I have a T9, ali spacer, iron bell and two ali bells with right side starter only. No Clutch plate or bering. The man I bought it from said the box had the correct length input shaft. How can I verify if the shaft length is correct? (yes, im a novice at this stuff) Also, could I get a Ford part numbes for the pressure plate, clutch, pilot and throw out bering? Please copy your answer to a PM for me. Thanks, Scott Houston

Hello, I have an 80's era Caterham 1600 Xflow; "Super 7 Sprint" cast rocker cover; Escort 4spd; Webber 40 DCOE x2 Engine block stamp is SAMCOR RAK1192 Can anyone identify the cam used in these? Not even Tony Weale's book has the info. Thank you.