p.mole1

Check the small hose on the inlet valve it has a small check valve inside and this often gets clogged. Also I would change to a mechanical oil pressure gauge, the electric senders are unreliable. I used to have issues with my car getting very hot in traffic. I tried everything and ended up fitting a remote thermostat with an 82 deg stat. If the air bleed hose from the inlet is blocked air can become trapped in the radiator and normally the fan switch is in the top of the rad and now no longer have coolant present. Some radiators have a bleed hose from the top to the header tank mine didn't and it was trapping air in the top of the rad causing it to overheat in traffic. The air bleed hose in the inlet manifold was blocked forcing the air into the top of the radiator.

I don't think the amount of bump steer I had was engineered! I can't remember how much I had but the car would try and throw you into a ditch on a bumpy road!. I think the reasons are two fold, the chassis tolerances are probably not that great, the chassis are quite weak, I think they flex quite a bit. At least on early cars like mine. Also I think the track rod ends are quite poorly made with a lot of scope for variable tolerances, which is why most cars require the rack to be lifted. I think they where designed that way to enable an easy solution for the owner to adjust the bump steer

Hi James, I fitted female rose joints and tapper pins ( from CHV I think ) as my rack required lowering. I have seen some kits which require the steering arms to be drilled! horrible. I have been running my rose joints for 2 years and no wear as of yet. The advantage of adjusting the track rods ends is, no enlarging the body work, it is quick and easy to adjust the height and you can adjust either side independently. My bump steer was horrendous, loads of advice on internet about putting spacers under the rack without any evidence of measurements. One issue you need to be careful of is binding of the joint at full, droop and compression.

It is just a screw on extension, it probably has been loctited on, normally if it really tight try a bit of heat on it. The extension is peculiar to CSR

Thanks I got track day breakdown cover through Reis.

I have a suction cup mirror which holds for about a week then drops off always at the most inopportune moment

My insurance is with Reis. I was unlucky with my engine failure, but now I'm paranoid about another blow up. I have the feeling I could be driving another K series grenade! Hopefully steel rods and forged pistons should help. Does the AA cover older vehicles, my Caterham is now 25 years old. The other option is a trailer?

Thanks, I'll see if I can get it with my insurance, it's due in 5 days £300 with track day cover for six events. Does that sound expensive? I'm not sure how confident I would be relying on an insurer to pay out on one of these policies, it might not be worth the paper it's written on?

Can anyone recommend any? I was with Start and they recovered me from Anglesey when I put a rod through the sump!. They don't cover cars that are used on track days so it must have been the good will of the operator.

Check out classic Led,they supply E marked bulb. I replaced the Bulbs in my T5 Transporter and didn't have any canbus error problems. The originals were not much better than candles. The new bulbs transformed my headlights.

Also fo sale Sierra 3.9 Diff removed from my 1.4 Supersport £ 90

Hi Jonathan I'm not that clever but Revilla has posted on it page 2 it looks like it may be a blown spark plug ?

Hi Roger if you check the video no 2 spark plug lead cap is wobbling around have you checked the plugs carefully I have known them to break and leak. What is your oil pressure like, if its low it's possibly an indicator of bearing damage. That's not always the case my engine let go and it was showing 60 psi ! Are you using forged pistons it could be piston breaking up. That said check all the simple stuff first

I didn't really want to be reving the knackers off an engine with a new crank and pistons with running in oil? I have been driving around Northumberland, very steep hills and have done 300 miles I not ragging it but I'm driving it quite hard, does this mean I've glazed the bores? I have heard so many conflicting reports over the years, I haven't got a clue, some say put synthetic straight away others put mineral oil in some say keep the revs down but plenty of throttle, others no full throttle. On my previous engine I kept the revs down and around 350 miles on mineral oil, then drove it as if it was run in on synthetic after it blew up I inspected the the remaining 3 liners and they seemed to have bedded in fine with no glazing and it didn't use any oil apart from a bit on track days. Anyway I'd like to thank Dave Andrews for his advice and supply of parts, plus his invaluable web page, I'd be lost without it! Up to now oil pressure is 60+ at 70 degrees oil temp, the water temp stays at steady 80 degrees and only goes up to 90 when stationary for 5 minutes

Thanks, I've been out today and put a few hundred miles on and everything seems good, it was boiling hot today. I am not reving it above 4000 but plenty of throttle now and again to bed the rings in. I have put an 88 thermostat in because my oil temperature was a bit low. My radiator fan switch has failed, what temperature range switch is used for an 88 degree stat

Thanks! I tried to rotate the photo but it was beyond my pathetic computer skills.

Finally I've got it in, it took some time to line it up with the first motion shaft Have used Millers running in oil to bed in the rings, I started it last night and took it straight out and gave it some wide throttle openings to bed the rings in. How long are you supposed to leave this stuff in? I'm hoping to put a few hundred mile on it tomorrow.

Nearly done

I doubt you would loose much remapping for 95 octane. If your ECU allows you could run with a knock sensor this would allow you to run more advance with a safety net. I dare bet the engine map for 98 octane is quite a conservative one. Leman cars are set up to run with a small amount of detonation as this produces more power. These cars have very sophisticated engine management and are running right on the edge.

Hi Oily thanks it's in, I used the Rover black sealant and put a bit too much on which made it difficult to locate. I removed all the sealant cleaned everything up and made a tool to press it in and used a bit less sealant. A bit Heath Robinson but it did the job

Spent the last 8 hours building up the bottom end, no wonder engines are so expensive. I've had to give up with the crankshaft oil seal I couldn't get it seat. The last engine I built i used a rubber mallet to seat the oil seal but this time I just can't it in. I'm going to make a tool tomorrow to press it in.

I'm after an alternator pulley for a Rover K series It is the one for a 4 ribbed belt, if anyone has one for sale

Yes I was thinking the pistons almost look too good to put inside an engine where you can't see them!

These arrived in the post yesterday, I have to say the rods look extremely well made. The machining and finish of rods around the big end put the Rover rods to shame!

Doh I bought one, thanks Oily