p.mole1

Thanks Julian Someone will benefit from all my hard work!, it seems a shame that it has sat in my garage for 18 months unused . I just don't have the time to use it now. Best regards Phil

1995 K series Supersport 1.4 upgraded as follows 1.8 K series with brand new VVC head converted to Piper 285 cams,vernier timing wheels with a mild porting job by Dave Andrews Steel rods with Omega pistons, Westwood liners, Lightened flywheel Emerald K6, Jenvey DTH throttle bodies with progressive linkages, Powerspeed exhaust Apollo tank and Accusump Large capacity alloy radiator with larger fan, QED remote thermostat Wosp starter Mechanical oil pressure gauge Set up on Jemzoe's rolling road 167@wheels, that's around 200 bhp at the crank with rolling road printout 6 speed gearbox, Quaiff diff New Revolution wheels 13x6 front and 13x7 rear with Toyo 888 185/60 fronts and 205/60 rears, adjustable rose jointed trackrod ends and taper pins to allow adjustment of bump steer 4 pot calipers and vented front discs Rear brakes have flexible rear brake lines to calipers, AP racing master cylinder Carbon fibre front mudguards and carbon fibre rear wheel arch protection, private plate, not really my thing but it came with the car. Nitron dampers Momo removable steering wheel, JK Composites seats with Caterham 4 point harness for passenger and 5 point for driver, removable windscreen and an aero screen, track day roll bar with removable petty strut, heater, Half hood and also a soft bits for sevens rain cover. Comes with everything required to put it back to a standard 1.4 SS, full engine and sump, diff, ECU, manifolds front brake assembly. The only things I don't have are the original wheels and seats. I have recently removed and powdercoated the Dedion tube, A frame and fitted new radius arms The Chassis and body are in excellent condition with no corrosion anywhere apart from a tiny blister beside the exhaust which is not on top of the chassis tube as you can see the rear of the aluminium skin. This car has never seen a road with salt on it durring my ownership and looks the same for the previous owner as there are no rusted fasteners. I have spends many thousands of pounds and man hours on this car and have virtually rebuilt it over the period I owned it. It come with a ring binder full of receipts including the original bill of sale and owners build manual, all old Mot's It does not require an emission test so no problems with MOT's The speedo reads low because I have changed the differential ratio from a 3.7 to 3.6 and I never got round to having it re-calibrated The car is currently SWORN however I will recommission it for a buyer. The mileage is 36800 but the engine has covered less than 6000 miles. If you require more pictures I can email them, I'm not great with technology so I am struggling to attach photographs Any inspection welcome £16500

Hi, Many thanks for all the posts, Plenty to think about. I had many issues with my front Nitron shocks, They had to go back twice because the body was too long. I think the issue is my car is a pre 96 and I don't think they had ever supplied any before, I also had to machine down the top spacers as they are narrower on the top mounts. I have managed to find a set of adjustable spring seats for the original Bilstien dampers so I may re-fit them. The spring is not getting coil bound, but as you can see the ride height is quite high and almost all of the travel is used up on the offside although I don't think this is an issue as the bump stop seem quite thick and compliant . Absolutely no problems with the rear it is almost impossible to unstick the back end even with my ham-fisted driving

I think I need to speak to Dave Gemzoe

Hi, Many thanks for all your help, I may have to bite the bullet and pay a professional to set it up. I much prefer to do everything myself as I Iike to able to understand the cause and effect of adjustments so I can then do all the work myself. I used Dave Gemzoe to set up my engine on the rolling road and he is a great guy. I have no idea what type of anti roll bars I have, I have Nitron dampers but I am not impressed with the fronts they have very little travel and seem drop onto the bump stops as soon as you turn into a corner and that is with quite a high ride height. I think the damper bodies could be too long? I am not sure if this could be an issue. the rears are absolutley fine Front springs are 200lbs and rears 130lbs

Hi thanks, To be honest I just set my pressure cold and just leave it alone. I have never checked them hot. I have never really had much confidence in the handling of the car, I can get around a circuit at a reasonable speed but reach a limit were I do want to push further as I can't really feel what the car is doing and it doesn't inspire confidence. That said I have never driven any other Caterhams so I don't know if mine is good or bad. I was thinking of adding more castor to increase the camber whilst turning,increase the static camber a bit more and add a very small amount off toe out. From experience with front wheel drive cars if there is any toe in it makes the steering terrible, but I have checked mine multiple times and it is almost parallel, just a few seconds of toe out. I don't want to ruin the cars stability, when I bought it, it had lethal amounts of bump steer so driving it on the road was a white knuckle experience. It took me some time to correct this, I am assuming that I haven't done some wrong by dialing this out.

Front tyre

I seem to have a problem with grip at the front, having returned from Croft the front tyres are in a right state. The front seems really vague around high speed corners. The Jim clark s bend I think they are at the top of Croft circuit. I have 13 wheels 205/60 13 and 185/55 13 tyres Toyo 888 inflated to 15 psi cold the car is a narrow track with a rear anti roll bar set to the mid position. A 15 mm rake with the tracking set to parallel 1.25 degrees negative camber and the castor is set to standard road setting. I have also corrected the bump steer. I am using quite soft springs but have adjustable damping as it is primarily a road car I have tons of rear end grip and the rear tyres seem to have even wear and do not look like they have melted. I never mess with tyre pressures, should I ? Is it worth trying to get hold of a wide track suspension. Because I use the car on the road I do not want to go to extremes and spoil the cars stability.

Ok It wasn't engineers blue it was some sort of yellow paint for tooth contact patch. The reason I went for Quaiff rather than a LSD were 1 Burtons were selling them for an absolute bargin and 2 as I would be using the car on the road I did want the issue of constant maintenance and noise. If you have been to a track day just listen to the front wheel drive cars with a LSD fitted they sound awful banging and knocking. If you intend to do any form of motorsport or serious track days and you have a very powerful car you don't really have an option you need a LSD. You don't need one for the road and to be quite honest I did loads of track days on an open diff without any problems. It was only when I got the engine to over 190bhp I found it was loosing traction on the inside wheel and the Quaiff has rectified that. Has it made me any quicker, probably not is the car more fun? a little bit better for a fraction of the time. The thing about track days are the are non competitive and they are just for fun, although you wouldn't think it once most people have ignored the briefing then set off in competition cars and drive as if they are in a race

I could have sworn I posted some photos but I can't find them

I think a lot of the noise issues are caused by either a poorly set up diff or contact between the diff and the frame. You need to be careful when centering the diff and using the packing washers so that you do not get any metal to metal contact. My original diff was quiet as a church mouse so when I changed my engine and fitted a different ratio diff I was a bit concerned I would end up with noise. I fitted a Quaiff diff myself but you need a few tools, a dial gauge, engineers blue, torque wrench, dremel, wife's oven and freezer also the tool for removing the output shaft bearing covers. This was the most difficult job as the were siezed solid. No matter how many times I tried I could not get the Quaiff diff back in the housing, you need a Dremel to grind away part of the casing to allow the now larger Quiaff diff to be re-fitted. Pre- loading the diff bearings was a leap of faith as the Ford manual is a bit vague about pre-load, but centering and back lash was straight forward. If you check on the blog site, I uploaded some photo's if that helps

Just from previous experience of building engines, do not under estimate the cost! I do not have any crossflow experience but I would think you would need forged pistons, bigger, valves, stronger con rods. Also at that power level the engine may require frequent rebuilds. I used have A series minis and once you upped the power the valve train wouldn't last longer than a few thousand miles before the valve guides would wear with the subsequent loss in compression. I think a Zetec conversion would be better and probably around the same cost and easily produce 150 bhp reliably for thousands of miles. I think you can get a conversion kit to fit one to Caterham? If you get hold of a Burtons catalogue there is quite a bit of engine information in it

Possibly a Ford ignition coil driven by an aftermarket ECU

Just a note on E10 fuel for anyone using carburetors. They may require a spot of re jetting as the ethanol can cause lean running. You better off just avoiding it

Hi Colin I'm in Whitley Bay so it's quite a distance away

4x Twogates minilite wheels with 185/60 14 Toyo 888 tyres with loads of tread left. I had them all re powder coated so they are probably better than new New metal tyre valves fitted original center caps. No dents or chips all the wheels have no runout. I'm selling them as I have gone to 13 inch wheels. I would like £300, I just spent £240 on the powder coating!

You can them tested and repaired

Thanks

I have a 1995 6 speed gearbox and it came with a Rover gear knob this was fitted to the gear lever via a threaded adaptor. I replaced this with a modern Caterham alloy gear knob but it seems a bit low on the transmission tunnel. The threaded adaptor had to be removed because it had the wrong thread. Did the latter Caterhams have a different gear lever, which I believe is made by Quaiff

Thanks, It seems I shouldn't be concerned. I did Anglesey and it dropped to around 65psi at around 90 to 100 degrees and 45psi tick over.

Hi, the bearing in the nose of the differential has some form of crush washer, I think? You can change the output shaft seals quite easily however the propshaft side seal is a different matter as you need all sorts of tools to pre load the bearing and remove the propshaft flange.

While most of the running gear should be fine It's not good for carburetors as ethanol attacks brass copper and aluminium. I think if you put E10 into a Caterham petrol tank there could be an issue unless they have some sort of coating. I don't know if 10% ethanol will be enough to cause a problem but I stored some ethanol in an aluminium Sigg bottle and within a year it had rotted a hole in it! There is something called POR 15 tank sealant which is alcohol and ethanol resistant I used it once on a motorbike petrol tank and it works really well. I'm not sure if you could use it on aluminium but I'm sure someone will come up with a solution if it becomes a problem. Personally I'm going to use Super unleaded as I don't do that many miles for the cost to be an issue

Thanks, I'm very careful warming the engine up, It always takes a while as I have an 82 degree thermostat and an Apollo tank so there is quite a bit of oil. I might lag the Apollo tank to shorten the warm up time.

Thanks, I'm very careful warming the engine up, It always takes a while as I have an 82 degree thermostat and an Apollo tank so there is quite a bit of oil. I might lag the Apollo tank to shorten the warm up time.

Hi Andy I hope your treatment is going well. It depends how much power you want. I fitted an Emerald K6 Jenvey DTH throttle bodies and an exhaust system to a 1.8SS and I was under whelmed The main sticking point is the cylinder head the valves are too small for the 1.8 after all that work I managed around 127bhp at the wheels at 5900 rpm and no amount of cam timing air air horn length made any difference. It did however have a completely flat torque curve and drove really well on the road. I would concentrate on the cylinder head as that is main restriction either bigger valves or try and get a VVC head and work from there. Bare in mind the standard pistons are a weak point so you don't want to go to wild. For a comparison just changing my cylinder head and camshafts from Supersport for Piper 285 hydraulic cams bumped up the power from 127bhp at the wheels@5900rpm to 167bhp at the wheels@6900rpm measured on the same dyno