p.mole1
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Everything posted by p.mole1
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My quick release wheel is the same, it has a small amount of play on the splines
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I'm after a pair of 13 inch wheel stays for an imperial S3 any condition, or failing that any size and I can cut them down
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2006, 41000 Miles, heated grips, full BMW luggage including tank bag, Hilltop remap, mudslinger hugger, GPS mount. Recall for drive flange and fuel tank carried out. In outstanging condition for year no corroded bolts or bubbling paint on engine cases. Has been SWORN for last few years but will be Mot'd on Wednesday Loads of receipts, every Mot certificate Contact me if you require any photos £ 3800
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Thanks, I'm running the standard brakes, they seem perfectly adequate with upgraded pads. They are going on a 1995 car with Sierra rear calipers and the Spitfire front caliper.
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Thanks, the 13x7 et 24 is listed as a Caterham/ Westfield fitment, but there seem to be so many variables. You can have any offset you like. It looks like there is more space behind the the wheel than at the arch. I don't forsee a problem it is only 13mm either side. I am assuming that all Caterham rear arches are the same dimensions
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I am looking to replace my 14 rims, with the following Revolution 4 spoke, 13x6 et 24 with 185/60 13 and rears 13x7 et 24 with 205/60 13. This should give the same rear diameter as 185/60 14 and drop the front by around 13 mm. I'm not quite sure what the correct et is for the rear? there seem to be plenty clearance behind the the rear wheel. I am assuming the Caterham suppled Two Gates Minilites have an et of 24
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Thanks Elie, Caterham sell the rubber bushes but I think they are £12 each !. From memory I think the bushes are quite easy to fit. The steel bush just pops out then is just a case of pushing in the bush with a vice and a bit of soap. I am sure you can get bushes from the likes of Powerflex or one of the other manufacturers.
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Thanks everyone, Do you know where I can get replacement springs? I am looking for 200lb springs for the front. I notice that the Caterham springs seem to Eibach
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Thanks I'll give that a try
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Thanks, I'm sure they are gas charged as one of mine is very hard to compress and it returns to it's original position after being compressed
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Can you get these rebuilt? I have checked Bilsteins web site but I couldn't seem to find anything
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Yes I have them, can't fault them. Very well made
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You could try spraying a little bit of WD40 into each cap first, sometimes they can stick a bit
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I had a 755 belt and I have replaced it with a 738 and now have much better clearance. It was a hell of a job to get the belt on due to the oil pipes, I can't get enough slack to enable me to fit the belt without extreme effort. When I fitted the Apollo I relieved the block to give a bit more clearance for the oil pipes. It seems due to the physical size of the ACR alternator. Also I am having to run a 4 rib belt as that is what is fitted to the alternator the crank pulley is 5 rib as I now have a 1.8 fitted. Are the later alternators physically smaller? My car is a 1995 vintage
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Just completed a flight with Aerial Collective at Duxford, can't praise them enough. A really professional outfit I first tried 15 years ago but it just wasn't possible? After I finished the flight, we treated to a fantastic aerial display by a MK9 Spitfire from the Aircraft Restoration Company, absolutely fantastic. It made driving my Caterham a bit dull after that!
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Thanks, I've had my engine out a few times and never really took any notice. That is a fair size hole, my engine is also without a cover, I'm off to make a copy
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I must apologise I thought it was a long bolt with a nut. I don't like those left hand thread stud extractors, they are very hard and brittle. If they snap there is no way of removing them. I have found if you drill a pilot hole then use a splined tool and hammer it into the hole and use a T bar or ratchet. It's not a great way to treat tools but normally works unless it is really siezed. Looks like there is not any corrosion so it should remove quite easily.
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You do not need all this fancy equipment. All you need is a very flat floor a tape measure and someone who is roughly your weight. Decide how much ground clearance you require and adjust accordingly with a rake of around 10 to 15mm. If you change your ride height by a significant amount re-check the the toe. Corner weighting is for race cars. You can get good results just with a tape measure. It is often worth checking rear toe and camber, although the level of adjustment is limited to shims. Westfields are far superior in this respect. Also it's worth checking the front suspension for bump steer, this can be horrendous on some cars
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It should just drift out in situ, it is a nut and bolt it doesn't really matter which end has sheared off. Just knock out the remaining bit with an old screw driver. Just make sure you replace the missing washers when you renew the bolt.
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Sorry I have no idea
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I run Toyo 888 on 14 inch Minilites ( 185/60 14 ) they are fantastic tyres
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I set my tracking to parallel just to increase stability, I do track days but I prefer the feel of the car. It probably won't be a problem if it wasn't for the state of our roads.
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Does anyone know the correct length of the fan belt on a Rover K series car. My car is a 95 vintage and uses the older ACR alternator, this is a bulking old thing. I have an Apollo tank so the hoses pass through the belt. My fan belt has started to squeal on start up but the alternator is perilously close to chassis rail.
