p.mole1

Thanks, I'm going to drop the sump today just of curiosity to survey the damage. I should have the head off by Wednesday and then I'll decide what to do. I should end up with interesting paper weights.

I have had another quick look at the engine before I drown my sorrows! 2 more holes found in the crank ladder which has also cracked along with the block, I tried a screw driver down number 2 spark plug hole and it was coincidence that the piston was in the expected position as it moved down the bore with a horrendous scraping noise unattached to the crank. I'm assuming that would have hit the cylinder head with enough force to wreck it although I still seem to have a full set of inlet valves. I looks like all I'm going to be left with is a pair of camshafts and a set of tappets and a sump pan which seems to have survived.

I have just pulled out the spark plugs and number 2 plug is soaked in oil, looking down the plug hole I was expecting carnage but all of the pistons are where they should be expected? The crown of number 2 is covered in oil but seems intact. There is at least one hole in the block below number 2 piston. I'm going to hazard a guess that I've spun a bearing or a rod bolt has gone? Judging by the prodigious amounts of oil smoke pouring out the bonnet i must have holed a piston. How is possible to put a hole in an engine and all the pistons are still in the correct place. I'd like to thank the person that lent me the trolley jack so I could get my car on to the recovery truck and apologize for spoiling a track session. Looks like it's end of track days for me this year and possibly for good!

Has anyone got a 1.8 k series block and crank for sale

I have a paid for a track day at Croft if anyone would like to make me an offer for it? With hindsight I should of waited till till Anglesey was out of the way!

Has anyone ever thrown a rod on a K series? Yes it was me that left the huge oil trail at Anglesey. I have given it a quick once over and there is at least one hole in the block. Up until it failed I had 60psi oil pressure, I did hear some very light metalic noise ay very low throttle openings less than 5% at around 2500 to 4000 which I thought could be pinking but as soon as throttle was applied it disappeared. With hindsight it could have been the little end? Just as the noise started to increase and I was going back off it let go at 6000rpm in top at over 100mph. I think the bottom end a pile of scrap. I hoping my DVA VVC head is ok or it's game over.

Thanks I have some spray adhesive and have managed fix some small bore piping onto the nozzle so I may get away with a few small 2mm holes although it may prove a bit difficult to apply the glue

I would think it is more likely a gasket problem, did you use the elastomer blue gasket and the steel dowels

Thanks, the sand is a good idea, how did you apply the adhesive? Did you cut open the trim? My plan was to cut open the trim at the end of the door on the half round section, spray in contact adhesive, let it go tacky then re-stick the trim

Unless you have a laminova style oil cooler, the oil cannot come from the oil cooler. Did you flush out your cooling system after you changed the head gasket?

The lining inside my doors has come unstuck, has anyone had any success repairing these

Is it usual for the rear pads to wear out before the fronts, the rears are about 50% worn and the fronts still look unworn, both sets of pads were fitted at the same time along with new discs.

Yes the whole system is factory standard the AP cylinder was a factory option, I was a bit concerned that the brakes might not be sufficient for a car this powerful but at Cadwell they seemed absolutely fine. Croft will test the brakes as the straights are quite long and there are two of them!

I have the standard 2 piston Girling calipers up front with Ferodo DS 2500 and Mintex M1144 at the rear. I have noticed the rear pads are wearing much faster than the fronts, also the rear discs seem to get hotter than the fronts on track days. Is this normal? The brake balance seems fine albeit it needs a huge amount of pedal pressure, I have the aluminium AP master cylinder. The car is now running 195 bhp and the standard brakes still seem fine although the rears could be a problem as at the end of a track day the discs are almost blue with the heat. Does this sound like a brake imbalance problem.

Thanks, one of wheels has 200 grammes on it! also the yellow dot is 180 degrees out. I will try and find someone who knows what they are doing

How hard can it be! I have just had my 14 inch wheels powder coated, nice job. Had new 14 inch Toyo 888 tyres fitted but I have never seen as many weights stuck on the inside of a pair of wheels. Are Toyo tyres poor quality? I have weights stuck upon weights. I have fitted the wheels and they seem ok but I have a ridiculous amount of metal stuck on. I usually only require the odd few weights.

Yes I changed from a 3.9 to a 3.6 and my speedo reads low by about 10% of the acurate speed! so I have to be careful not to speed. You can alter the the speedo drive ratio or have the speedo re- calibrated or just leave it and remember it reads low.

Check your diff ratio, some came with a 3.9 ratio which gives a very low top gear. I changed to a 3.6 ratio, much better. If you have a Supersport the standard 5 speed ratios are totally unsuitable for a Caterham, also the higher ratio of the 5 speed will kill your top gear acceleration with a Supersport 1.6, the 1.8 is much better as it is less peaky. The 6 speed box was specially designed for the 1.4 Supersport, do you have 13 inch wheels? this will give very low gearing with 60 profile tyres. I am running 14 inch wheels 60 profile tyres a 3.6 diff and a 1.8 this gives around 18mph per 1000rpm and around 16 mph with the 3.9 diff. The 1.6 Supersport is quite a peaky engine and you may find the 5 speed box will ruin the character of the car

Never thought about that! anyhow I've managed to find somewhere £75, When did B&B become so expensive!

I had a 1.4SS with a six speed box and it had a 3.9 diff

Anyone recommend cheap accommodation anywhere nearby?

Water rail, I had the same problem and nearly lifted the head!

See if you can get a set of adjustable spring seats, that will enable you to set the car up to a reasonable level and you don't need to spend a fortune. Also check the geometry this will make a much bigger difference to the car, bump steer can be a problem sort this out first and you will find a huge improvement. You don't need an LSD unless you drive like a looney on the road and your inside wheel is loosing traction or your car is very powerful, however it will be a bonus if you intend to do track days.

Wheel located, thanks

Thanks will give them a try