p.mole1
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Everything posted by p.mole1
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Thanks Alastair I'll remove some coolant, it's a habit I had when I had a water rail leak
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I have the restriction in the top of the tank
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Been out for a proper run in the car and seems to be performing well,the new radiator is doing a much better job. When I was running the car with the standard head and Super Sport cams it seemed asthmatic and ran out puff before 6000 revs, now it really gets going at 5000rpm and is still going when I hit the rev limiter at 7500. The gearing is so much better with the 3.62 diff. I have it booked in for a rolling road setup on the 3/5 lets see if i can break 175 bhp barrier, possibly a tad optimistic.
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Its in, when I started the engine it was only showing 20 psi I hadn't accounted for the extra 3 liters of oil required for the Apollo and Accusump. It appears that an oil pump can pump air or at least oil froth, I loosened the air bleed fitting and oil froth escaped. The sump pan must have been almost empty. My oil temperature is also running 10 degrees cooler with the Apollo, it's going to make oil changes a bit expensive as there must be over 8 liters of oil in the engine now
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Thanks it's in but it took some time and I had to turn one of the 90 degree connectors around 180 degrees using a vice and lots of WD40. I haven't fitted a spare belt as it's still in the post! off to Mot station now.
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It's going into a S3 I looked at trying to fit the sandwich plate horizontally but the chassis rails are to close. I must admit I don't think it's a very good idea running the hoses through the fan belt!
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My fan belt is a Contitech PK755 which seems strange as it not listed for any Rover cars or Caterhams it's from a Peugeot Boxer?
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I'm having one hell of job getting all this in. I have had to grind a bit of the block away above the filter housing. I have an old Lucas ACR alternator and its huge which doesn't help. The hoses are a mix of one correct hose and two hoses from a LHD car from Caterham. I think this may have an advantage as the loop will stop the oil from draining out the tank when the engine has stopped.
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I had no noise from my old diff and I have have just rebuilt one so I was worried about noise but it's just a quiet as the one it replaced. I'm guessing if it hasn't been centered properly in the chassis with the correct amount of washers you can get metal to metal contact which will transmit noise. The bushes are very small.
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Oops didn't read it properly
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I think you are supposed to do the test with the throttle fully open?
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Thank's Oily it works, I don't think I went through the process methodically enough before and probably missed something out.The cold fast idle is working a treat. Is it worth enabling the O2 sensor? I don't have a catalyst
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Thanks Oily, thought is was probably operator error
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Hi Ian found the article but appears MKF engineering are no more! I think they may have been parts for other items rather than gearboxes
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Thanks Ian
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Yes I have looked at that, to be honest I'm not sure if it is working correctly. Once warmed up it's fine even if you put a load on the engine it's tick over is stable. I was just wondering if anyone has a car that has a fast idle on cold startup? If I advance the ignition I can get the cold idle speed to increase and it will tick over, but if I allow the K6 to make the adjustments it stalls. I'm probably doing something wrong.
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Thanks I need to see if different drive ratio's are available. I can remember correcting a Mini speedo in the past by changing the drive ratio
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Can you alter the speedo drive ratio's in the gearbox and if so can you get to them with the gearbox in the car?. I have changed the diff ratio from 3.9 to 3.6 and it is a huge improvement with the 1.8 engine and a six speed box. I think the original diff gave around 16 mph per 1000 rpm and now its 18 mph per 1000 rpm with 14" inch wheels. These figures are from the Caterham manual so I don't know how accurate they are. It now looks like my speedo is under reading by at least 10%
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I am running with Jenvey DTH bodies so I have no idle stabilization valve. The K6 has the facility to raise the cold idle speed by using ignition timing, has anybody succeeded in getting this to work. I cannot seem to get my car to idle when cold it just cuts out, it's fine once warmed up and has a very stable idle once up to temperature.
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Hi thanks that's a lot cheaper than Merlin!
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I just replaced my A frame bushes and my car is a 1995 and 30000 miles and the old ones looked fine. I only removed them to get it powder coated
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Ah I missed that £68 from Caterham a bargain, I bought it, the last one!
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Good ideas, I don't think the system works to well with cold oil and I might just leave it switched off unless I do a track day. I quite like the idea of pre oiling an engine, but I don't suppose it makes much difference for the amount of miles I do. I am going for a belts and braces approach and have managed to get hold of an Apollo tank second hand on ebay
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I'm only short of a couple fittings for the airbleed and the sandwich plate, I will make up my own oil hoses. The sandwich plate is around £30 and as long as I don't use fancy anodised oil fittings it should cost too much.
