p.mole1
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Everything posted by p.mole1
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Also ethanol absorbs water which can be a problem on older cars with open fuel systems
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You will not make as much power on E10 as you would on straight petrol unless you jetted the car to suit. Petrol contains more energy than alcohol, to run a car on straight alcohol it would need an air fuel ratio of around 5-1. Most modern cars are designed to cope with this however alcohol is very bad for metals and some rubber components. You need to store pure ethanol in stainless steel . It certainly does not like aluminum. I am now running my car on Super unleaded purely because it is not supposed to contain any ethanol
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What about the 2 stroke engine, there has been loads of development they are about 50% more efficient than a four stroke. I'm sure it has been said that a 4 stroke has 1 power stroke and 3 strokes to wear out the engine. Apparently the stumbling block with modern 2 stroke fuel injected engines is they run so lean that they can not get a catalyst to work
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Had I known this I would never had purchased these from this vendor. You are right buy cheap, buy twice, I never learn.
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Thanks everyone, the discs look a bit cheap, I don't generally use cheap brake parts! Better quality discs tend to have much better machining. I noticed the discs have heavy spots, probably not going to be a problem unless it causes vibration. I did have a run out problem when I purchased the car, it turned out to be hubs, I purchased new ones from James Whiting which cured the problem, they have less than 0.02mm run out. It shows that JWM don't have much faith in their products! although that could just be the usual legal stuff to cover their backs from people fitting stuff with any idea of what they are doing. I notice the caterham discs are £169 each! does anyone know which vehicle they sourced from?
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The rose joint camber kit is for display only! but it does not mention the brake kit. The calipers seem exactly same as the the Cranley Classics. Before I do any track days I will replace the discs.
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I don't know! I'd better check. I can't find anything that states it shouldn't be used on the road.
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Hi Ian, looks like the same caliper
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I've never been happy with the standard brakes, they have no feel and the pedal pressure required was unreal and I have driven other non servo-ed cars. You could just about lock the front brakes but it felt like the brake pedal was about to bend.
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Classic LED really great service. I haven't bothered with the Caterham headlights as I hardly ever drive it at night but a replaced the headlight bulbs on my VW T5 and the transformation was incredible. The headlight used to be useless.
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The olives are used in the braided steel flexible brake hoses
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Has anyone got these fitted? (Jack Webb Motorsport) They seem OK and are a direct copy of the Caterham kit. They look a bit Chinese! however they fitted ok although the discs look a bit poor and have a small amount of run-out 0.10mm. I noticed the pad locating pins did not have any safety clips so I drilled a 2mm hole and fitted some R clips, although after checking the Caterham calipers don't have any safety pins. I'm probably not going to get a chance to test them till after the winter
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Bugger my lines are crimped
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A pair of track rod ends new £20
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Pair of front wing stays with mudguards and indicators. some very small cracks in gel coat. To fit 14 inch wheels £100
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4 x 14 inch Two Gates Minilites all freshly powder coated last year fitted with Toyo 888 tyres and quality metal valves and original center caps. £400
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Thanks Eli I didn't realise they used olives!
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Can anyone tell me what type of fitting would be on my car it's a 1995 model. I need to make up a new line for the front caliper, it is the fitting in the bodywork I'm unsure about. BSP, UNF or metric ?
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I'll get the blow lamp and some pipe. I find the Caterham stays a strange shape, they do not seem to be made with any accuracy. I'm assuming they haven't had any impact damage
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Oops sorry looking at the wrong trailer, that would do it
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They were very cheap, so I didn't expect much, but they were serviceable with quite a bit of work
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Hi , yes I looked at the link, but I think I would require something a bit smaller.
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I am in the process of fitting new front mudguards and struts due to changing to 13 inch wheels but the rear seems very close to the tyre, how much clearance do think is needed ? This is the old mudguard New cheapo mudguard on second hand struts
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Hi, they are longer and wider, they fit quite well, however they needed cutting down to fit the K series and required a bit of work to tidy up the edges. As for fitting they require quite a few clamps and loads of trial fitting. You could only install them with the arches removed as you require quite a bit of clamping to get them to fit
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My wheel arches were in a right state due to the stainless panels not being fitted correctly. I took a gamble and bought these from Kit car direct and they covered all of the damage. They required a fair bit of fettling, but both rear arches came off with no rivi nut trouble, unbelievable for a 25 year old car.
