dave_h34

The fundamental problem is incorrect calibration of the temp sender in the ECU, at the time the ECU reports ~98C and kicks the fan in, the real temperature is such that the 88/90C thermostat is only just beginning to open. Correcting the faulty setting in the ECU is the sensible answer, but it's a locked MBE and Caterham seem to think it's an acceptable situation. Using an 82C stat is a cheap workaround for the problem of the fan kicking in all the time. It of course doesn't fix incorrect temperature within the ECU but that seems not to cause a particular problem.

Just done this mod and all looks well, radiator hoses now warm in advance of the fan kicking in rather than at the same time. Thanks to the advice in this thread, I popped over to Opie to save a few pennies. And indeed i did! Rather than going with the version with the shorter connections as per the Caterham part (£32 reduced to £21 on Opie) i went with the version with the same length connections as that already fitted, at a whopping £11.50!!: https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-91277-integral-thermostat-mahle-ti-202-82.aspx Bargain upgrade! Interestingly, supporting info i'd seen elsewhere, and answering the post above, the part came labeled for Mazda. As i understand it, the engine when fitted by Ford has a 88/92/98 thermostat, even with electric actuation by the ECU on some versions, whereas Mazda fit 82ºC stats. If Mazda are happy to operate the engine at that temperature then i wouldn't have any reservations about operating outside of manufacturer's recommended range. Cheers.

Try as I might this just doesn't fit under an uncut SV bonnet. For Duratec with Titan roller barrel induction. These are they: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/4649-track-day-airbox-r500-duratec-2008.html?search_query=air+box&results=22 https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/5102-r500-track-day-air-filter.html?search_query=air+filter&results=22 Trial fitted only. £350. Collect from Warwick or postage at cost. :-)

Do you need it? Probably not. Do I regret fitting mine, no. If you have noise and whine in a straight line it's not the LSD as both wheels are rotating at the same rate. Clonking, grumbling at low speed in tight turns, that is the LSD (plate type anyway). The difference I found was in cases of loss of traction with the open diff, it would spin up a single side then on backing off would regain grip quite abruptly which wasn't very predictable. In the same circumstances with LSD the car simultaneously drives forward and tightens it's line, something I still can't understand as it doesn't feel like it's sliding at the rear. It's far better though, and more predictable.

Could I have a copy of the workshop notice please?

They're only 9 months old! Did you have success after changing yours Geoff?

Anyone have further info or revelations? Following the 60th event the chassis and fuel tank on my car are now both liberally coated in diff oil!

Thanks Geoff. Despite the fairly continuous weep on mine when the level was checked oil actually came out of the filler hole. A slight overfill perhaps but certainly the weep isn't leading to the loss of a lot of oil.

Probably a silly question but does the BMW diff have a breather hose? I couldn't see/feel one on mine.

Mine ended up very tight, but so far so good with clearance being adequate. My CR500s were 7 years old so might not be the best comparison but there is notably more grip with the ZZS which might need some caution. And of course, you'll need to adjust your ride height to get things corrected for the rear ZZSs, then again when you add the front ZZS. I bit the bullet and changed all four, but they were ~3mm ish and of course very old.

AD08s were the other tyre I considered in addition to R1R but I went with ZZS in the end. I think they were £124ea with free fitting and balancing but I live within 30 miles of BMTR.

There's a set of Billy's on Facebook, advertised in the last couple of days. It doesn't mention whether they're adjustable or not though.

195/50 is a popular size, and I've seen a few decent tyres in 195/55 also. That would be approximately +10mm and +20mm respectively.

I've not experienced problems with mine as such but have noticed the coolant level varies a bit between max and min after any given run out. That led me to take a look at the radiator bleed and there was a good amount of air trapped in there. I've topped it up directly but as yet haven't had a run out to assess the result. Reading around the subject it seems the heater can cause air trapping so I've bought, but have yet to fit, one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302200021471 Seems like a good idea and very simple. When the weather picks up I'll be able to do more testing.

Sigma engine? Premier Power offer 175 and 200bhp upgrades for significant but less money. I'm sure others do similar packages too. There also seems to be increasing reference to Ecoboost engines which might make any costs more palatable given potential big figures!

Time for a holy thread revival batman. The time came to swap out those CR500s (which are still available btw and in stock at BMTR but will likely be outlawed soon). The R1Rs seemed like a good option but I couldn't find a local place to get them from, the nearest Toyo 'motorsport' dealer actually recommended AD08Rs. AD08Rs also looked a very good option but in the end I spent the extra money and went for some ZZSs. Things of note: they did fit under the cycle wings but it's tight, probably 5mm to the indicator wiring and within 10mm between the stay and the corner radius of the inner part of the tyre. Quite tight to the outer sidewall of the tyre/outer edge of the cycle wing too but plenty of clearance above the central portion of the tyre. I'll need to keep an eye on things initially I think. Wheel weight with worn CR500 was 13.2kg, ZZS 15.6kg. Other bits of perhaps interesting info: fuel efficiency F, wet grip C, 72db, treadwear 20(!), traction B, temperature A, tread plies a mix of steel and nylon, sidewall plies nylon, 5mm tread depth. Think that about rounds things up! HTH.

Trumpets are 100mm on mine if that helps.

As stated in the previous thread, wisdom of an independent stated it was due to the Caterham driveshaft not being designed to use the spring washer BMW use, substituting it for a plain washer. Interestingly my car has been up on stands for around 6 weeks and a dribble has appeared, I guess unweighting the suspension/articulating it to its extreme has taken pressure of the seals.

My metric SV is 88cm front edge of windscreen to middle of rollbar so I'm pretty close to Thundersports measurements. I recently got a Soft bits hood which if anything is around 10mm too long, putting it at 89cm. All seems you stack up with your measurements/experiences. HTH.

A member called Stridey missed out on the one I was selling last week, might be worth contacting him. :-)

Now at Bookatrack auto jumble. Thanks.

Now sold.

PM replies sent to those received. Cheers.

From 8000 mile car, inc boss, no horn electics. £60 posted http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f241/Dave_H34/20161105_104607_zpspgjf9hda.jpg

Please see Nuke the Luke forum.