Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Logan Colbeck

Account Inactive
  • Posts

    30
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. Help! I need to access a thread I saw some time ago on eliminating an airlock in my Duratec cooling circuit. Anyone recall this or can offer comment? Many thanks in advance, Logan.
  2. Many thanks for all of the input. I have gone with Guy's modification to the gearbox top. A fiddle, but I hope it will be worthwhile!! Logan.
  3. Hello Jonathan, The notes you sent and your comments on the reversible ratchet will be put to use in the morning! Many thanks for your help---most reassuring!! Logan.
  4. Hello Duncan, Very grateful for this. I shall dwell on your comment and the notes from Jonathan and have another go in the morning. The thought of even less room to attempt this is awful! Logan.
  5. Hello Jonathan, I am in Alton, Hants. I have tried using a cut down key as recommended in the GT KY7, but not with a wrench. I wondered about drilling through the tunnel side, but there is a chassis member in the direct line of sight! Many thanks for your swift reply! Logan.
  6. I am forcing myself to complete this task after putting it off for six months now. The car has done 6700miles and was first registered in May 2015. I have followed the GTKY7 advice, but the modified 10mm tool defeats me when attempting to engage the plug. Other than abandoning the task, has anyone a successful method for this? Thank you in advance, Logan
  7. Greetings to all of you who have help me. I have located the blown 7.5 amp fuse caused by the failed sender and replaced it----first unplugging the coupler behind the rear wheel as recommended by JK. The engine started immediately as predicted in two of the earlier posts!!! I have contacted CC and they are to send me a new sender overnight. So I should have a resolution to all of my issues in the morning! So, with the combined input from techtalk and CC, I have a resolution within three days. But, more importantly, I now know that the sender is classified in the fuse system as an instrument, and once the fuse goes, so do all associated instruments, including the engine running permissives! I have sourced a couple of spare 7.5 amp fuses for my tool kit in the car and would commend this action to all owners with electronic senders located at the rear offside wheel. Many thanks to all again!! Logan.
  8. That is interesting SM25T. I have tried to start my car after removing the sender, but it will not! Do you have any other information on this effect, as I was planning to drive it with the satnav as a speedometer. Best wishes, Logan
  9. Many thanks, Jonathan. I shall contact CC on Monday. Really grateful for the advice! logan.
  10. Many thanks for these comments. I have removed the rear wheel and spotted what appears to be a chafed insulation to the sender cable. I have removed the sender and it's plug to the loom which is a three pin connector. My working assumption is that the chafing is responsible for an electrical short and I need to replace the sender and cable. Problem------it's not listed as a CC spare. If any of you kind folk know of a source, or can guide me to a replacement, I would be most grateful. Thank you for responding so promptly!! Regards, Logan.
  11. During a blat this afternoon, my speedometer stopped indicating and stopped logging miles driven, though it did display the accrued mileage and the trip mileage. It is a two year old Duratec with about 6700 miles on the clock. It was very muggy at the start of the blat, and there was condensation in evidence on body and engine . Any views, before I start taking things apart? Many thanks for any contributions!! Logan.
  12. Hello Slap-ed, CC have supplies of this part in stock and I got mine by return for £40. The part number is SN 3M4Z-8676-B 1 475 495 EN 3M4G-8676-BD BPMS No MFL 001 (Not sure which of these is the CC part number, but all are quoted on the box which is a genuine Ford item) The part was made in Mexico, and has a stainless steel shroud. That is very important, as the original plastic restraining posts snap off in time and tend to fall into the water pump delivery chamber. Nether the part I removed, nor the new part is inscribed with a temperature rating, but it is obvious from the springs which is the 82C part. Before you fit the new part, put them both in a pan and slowly boil them. The difference in the opening temperatures will be immediately obviious as the temperature rises. You will also notice that the thermostat feed connection is shorter than the 100C part. This actually helps, as on a S3 you have greater clearance from the chassis when refitting. If you want more, let me know, or email me on logancolbeck@yahoo.co.uk. Regards, Logan The lower tank now gets hot!!!
  13. An update for those with the will to follow this. I visited PGM the other day on an unrelated matter, and mentioned my ongoing frustration with the fan being on all the time. One of the team at PGM felt the upper and lower radiator tanks and remarked that the lower was cold, despite having just completed a run of 60 miles. He coupled the engine to his computer and we could see that the fan was programmed to come on at 97C. He suggested that the thermostat could be malfunctioning. The next day, I removed the thermostat and tested it in a pan of water on the Aga. It opened at 100C!!! In other words, the fan kept the thermostat shut!!! I have now sourced an 82C thermostat from CC, fitted it, and my problem has gone away. The engine runs at a steady 86C ish, and the fan cuts in only in heavy traffic, or on the approach to my home which is up a long slow drive. You can see my other attempt to cool the engine in this month's Low Flying when I waded a ford! Logan.
  14. I am selling all my motorcycle gear now that I have the Caterham: Heine Gericke jacket XL fluourescent yellow, done 62k miles, £100 Heine Gericke salopettes XL, black, 70k miles, £75 Furygan jacket, XL, black, 35k miles, £100 Yellow and black lightweight jacket, never used,armoured, XL, £75. Two pairs of armoured boots, 35k miles each, size 10.5, £35 each pair. Take the lot for £300! Collect from Alton, or postage at cost.
  15. Thanks for that. The owner before myself built the car, did about 400 miles in it and then traded it through Caterham South. I traded up to a new S3 175 bhp Roadsport which suits me better. The Monaco was very sweet----wish Alan well with it!
×
×
  • Create New...