dave_h34

Now sold, thanks.

OK ta, further info then. It fits to the standard Caterham Duratec primaries, i don't have any further info than that but could rustle up a photo if required. It was fitted to a 2010 SV, so will straight fit a SV and i presume also fit an S3 (further trim to the collector may be required). The silencer is the standard Raceco offering so full details can be found on their website, but to answer the question its 7.25" diameter. Thanks Dave

Raceco titanium silencer, std 750mm with recent Acousta-fil wadding & 4-1 decat collector cut to suit, for Duratec. Some very light marks on the can which would polish out quickly but i preferred the 'titanium finish' look. Small ding in exit pipe. £500 collect from Warwick.

Good advice here. Unless you're fixed on keeping it original I think I'd be tempted by the better driveability of butterflys than the marginal/theoretical gain of rollers. You'll probably save enough money to more than cover a full remap, so better solution at lower cost.

Don't put any on your face...

They do, and it's good stuff. Prevents the graunching and hopping on low speed tight manoeuvres.

595RSRs nearest equivalent to R1Rs imo. ZZS are a better road tyre than both but are double the price and become an expensive consumable on a warm trackday (which to be fair they're not designed for). I think I'll try R888R next, see how they go.

Does this link work for you?: https://youtu.be/SDcA2KvtdWU

Indeed the Caterham RBTB fit under a SV bonnet without needing to cut a hole, but if you ever want to quiet them down with a "trackday intake" you'll run into problems. I also get pretty bad heat soak or vaporisation or something - runs fine until you park it up, leave it long enough and it's fine, take the bonnet off for a bit and it's fine, otherwise it coughs, splutters and tries to die for a few hundred yards until a bit of airflow gets to it. IMO the standard map is pretty rough and I'd certainly not recommend fitting them for reasons of idle and smoothness. Nothing a remap wouldn't sort but still. I think I'd be tempted to leave it until the warranty expires and look at all available options, unless keeping it Caterham original is important to you.

Thanks all, diff is out! Not nearly as heavy as I gave it credit for. So, next question, what's the preferred method of getting the back plate off? It seems gummed up pretty tight with sealant gunk.

Ah, OK, thanks for that. Makes sense. I must admit the wrestling back doesn't fill me with a warm fuzzy feeling.

No I haven't, in fact, I don't even know what they are! Sounds like I should though... please. :-)

I'm part through disassembly to get my BMW diff out, in fact, the next step is the diff bolts themselves. Before I crack on as per all the guides I've read, is there a reason to remove diff and carrier from the car rather than remove diff from carrier? The latter would be slightly smaller to squeeze out and also would leave all the centralising shims in place. Or am I missing something?

Unless you're skilled in the art, wrapping the cycle wings is no quick fix!!! Nightmare of a job.