EEK

You sure you're not trying to get a 7.5 diff into a 7" casing?

Some relevant information here, https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/which-gearbox-2 I went for different diff, see post 10 in above link

https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/ds-gold-pump-pulley-removal

For the Speedometer http://www.vdoshop.co.uk/acatalog/vision-speedo-ds-140-mph-220-kph.html For the sender https://www.amazon.co.uk/VDO-340-786-GPS-Speedometer-Sensor/dp/B00T9LX0R6

This https://www.vdo-gauges.com/instruments-displays-and-clusters/by-type/speedometer/cockpit-120mph-3-1-8-electronic-speedometer-with-autocalibration.html with this https://www.vdo-gauges.com/gps-speed-sender.html?___store=aftermarket_en might be a way to do it

rj - thank you Good to see open sharing of information, I see too many threads "dissolving" into a PM me and I'll send you the information. Perhaps a separate agenda about the need for a Wiki / repository of files of information that folks feel the club should be providing - who knows I don't but thanks.

Bit of a conundrum I guess, As I understand engines, oil pressure is pretty much king. If the engine has been run without oil pressure it is pretty much ******, could be a sleep nessnight so I guess you are hoping/assuming the gauge is at fault. As we add layers of technology we add layers of potential failure and miss information. As is suggested above a mechanical gauge removes a layer of technology, From other posts the cost is not that dissimilar to a replacement sender. The down side is, if it shows zero the engine is probably ******

I have a totally different engine, Vauxhall, running an MBE 967 ECU which initially did not have a barometer sensor for altitude compensation. I live at 450m and did note that engine was not the same here as down at lower levels, at 2000m it was virtually impossible to keep running. Fitted a sensor before tackling the alps this year and had no problems up to 2700m. So I am sure it will depend on state of tune, but don't necessarily rule out altitude.

Barometric is built into the emerald as internal sensor, you must be using it otherwise it would run like a pig over all the high passes. http://www.emeraldm3d.com/k6-ecu-info-and-specification

I've gone the "other route" to get effective overdrive on the 6 speed box. Car is a 2.0 Vauxhall with about 265 hp. It had Caterham 6 speed box with 3.62. As I use car for longer trips then I was looking for something that cut the revs in 6th. So fitted a 3.18 diff, it has made 6th an overdrive, and I do need to remember to change down for the faster overtake, so car is a bit different. that being said 60 mph in 1st is now possible.

I mount down under the dashboard using a system based on RAM mounts, lots of choices to make something up and they are really solid https://www.ram-mount.co.uk, note there are local country distributors with their own web sites if not in UK.

Yes second that, having just fitted one on my car.

Relief it is not a warranty claim over the soldered joints! I do think it might have been the problem all along as the joint removed at the front did look OK, but looking and being are of course different things. Pump replacement bolts want to be about 2mm shorter so they don't bottom out at the end of the rivenut which I think there is a risk of doing. Looking at mine there is the fiber washer, a flat washer and a spring washer, also they are allen heads, assuming same length then think washers will give the required length reduction and spring washer should help with them working loose.

Antony - I'm in Grasse and at home - where are you and where is the car - what tools do you need? - call me on 06xxxxxxxx or 04yyyyyyyy - and my 7 tank is nearly empty :-)

I don't have them to hand, but I seem to recall that the first instruction in the fitting guide for a Powerspeed exhaust to a K series engine is that the rear of the alternator may need rotating to allow clearance. So if I recall correctly then chances are it can.

I recently had a similar problem with the two lower front mounting points with the existing 5mm rivnuts having corroded out. I found that the resultant hole was the right size for 6mm rivnut insert so decided to go that way. As it had happened once then I guess in a few years there is a chance I would have to move up to 7mm etc. So took the plunge and removed the inner panel so I could get to the rear of the rivnut. I set the 6mm rivnut then reinforced the setting with a thickened epoxy resin mix so this takes some of the load and stops water getting into the junction between the rivnut and the panel. Hopefully it will limit / delay any future corrosion of the panel. Nylon 6mm bolts are now use. Drilling out the rivets to get inner panel off seemed like over kill but in reality it probably only took 40 minutes and the same to refix the panel.

Now I am confused, looking at the Caterham part in the annex of the linked document then the preamble about K and age is consistent with my understanding but then on some specific cars e.g. Seven Vauxhall 2.0i HPC 16v VIN Code S or K Engine Code VJ there is data, so a sixth digit K VIN that is not a visual test. Am I reading this correctly?

When I did mine I had to go up a size in Rivenut, the pulled out holes were the right size for the next size so 6mm I think instead of 5mm. I thought about a load spreading washer on the back side of the wing to limit it happening again but that made it all too thick for the rivenut to set properly. In the end, having removed the inner panel, I went for aly rivenut (to avoid electrolysis risk) and a small fillet of thickened epoxy resin around the set rivenut to spread the load a bit with plastic cap head bots.

Black on French plates this evening Bouillides Roundabout

Suggest you get proper tool to set the Rivnut. Inner wing being pretty thin does not give you many opportunities to practice, I have used Sealey AK3985, very happy with it and will set larger ones for other jobs.

Do either of these help? http://www.classicpartstrader.com/triumph-herald-and-spitfire-brake-disc-and-pad-set-698-p.asp or http://www.atlautosports.com/fits-front-1965-triumph-spitfire-performance-brake-rotors-atlc30000-58/

Did the 500 last year in early may, 265 ish bhp, Avon ZZS, 185 front, 215 rear 13 inch, but then it didn't really rain, clear blue skies on the West coast and some haar on the North and East coasts. ZZS seem fine

Depending on how you plan to get to St Moritz don't overlook that, in according the law, use of headsets in France is illegal. Now it's France and the theory of the law and the practical application are at times Mars and Venus. But anything that avoids drawing too much attention might be appropriate. Crash helmets would hide most things!

I use Tyre to Travel on the PC for the planning, then export the route as an itn TomTom file to a TomTom Go 500 via Micro SD card. It is an older model but picked up on ebay, it was chosen for this ability to use SD card because as observed above new versions don't allow this functionality. Generally works very well one disadvantage is, if wanting to do a route re-plan on the PC while en route Tyre needs internet connectivity for the mapping. There is another App version of Tyre that is more flexible in this area and allows Maps to be down loaded. I also believe that the App version of Tyre is more integrated with the TomTom App allowing transfer to the newer devices but have no actual experience of this.

See post 9 of this thread https://www.lotus7.club/forum/chitchat/sos-k-series-sump-plug