EEK
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Everything posted by EEK
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Have a look at my post 6 here https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/fuelpumpfuel-filter-or-something-else
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Almost identical problem, happened some time ago but coincidentally yesterday again and the solution for me is to make/break this connector, but yesterday needed a bit more cleaning for the problem connection - see 2nd photo, this is the fuel pump feed. Really need to get round to moving it out of this connector and into something that can take the current better. A quick check could save a lot of faffing. CONNECTOR PROBLEM
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I've had the connection in the large econoseal plug that the fuel pump wire goes through somewhere near the inertia switch and down stream of the relay cause my fuel pump to stop - high resistance due to arcing, bit of a clean and been ok since but it did just stop in a garage when refueling.
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Could something like that not be 3D printed?
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BS017-Nitrile-O-Ring-17-17mm-ID-x-1-78mm-C-S-Choose-Quantity-new/293092853497?hash=item443db206f9:g:2HcAAOSwSWhc3pg2
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Ran mine up to fan cutting in in the garage the other day, the water was showing 95C the oil 55C so don't think just getting the water up there and turning off is enough to get the oil to the point it is flowing through the cooler.
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This is Powerspeed Pricing is, from memory, around the figures you mention.
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Find a local swimming pool maintenance man - they have loads of bungs/plugs and gauges for pressure testing pipe work in pool systems. It is sort of the same.
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32mm PVC waste evacuation tube, paint stripper hot air gun and a bit of playing about and you can create to your required dimensions a 'hoover crevice tool'
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Not the answer, but does this help? http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=flare
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maybe, https://www.flickr.com/photos/48product_jp/24942133544/
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Do Powerflex have something?, perhaps a line to Meteor Motorsport would get you on the right track, https://www.meteormotorsport.com/shop/caterham/suspension/powerflex-bush-kit-caterham-7-trailing-arm/
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#17 - @7 Wonders, many thanks for info
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#9 - 7 Wonders - do you happen to know what piston sizes you have front and back? I have gone 4 pot front, standard disc size, thinking about the back now - but to keep balance reasonable any thoughts you have on rear piston size would be helpful. Thanks
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I think your summation on the plastic tie is correct. I did manage to unhook my clutch cable from the fork whilst driving once. Quite surreal to wonder why the clutch pedal has just "disappeared". Remedy at the time was a cable tie on end of clutch fork to keep cable in. Car is an earlier 1.6 K series.
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#11, I concur. My first Seven was a re-furbed one from a prominent specialist. It banged a lot from the re suspension, I took it back, TADTS. I kind of felt they didn't, any way after investigation I found it had been built without the plastic washers. Stuck a couple in and "Chalk and Cheese" car was instantly a pleasure to drive.
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I used some white Nylon penny washers found in B&Q, they needed a drill out to enlarge centre hole, they have been fine.
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CP is a fairly common AP Products reference, found an online version of the document I have Pdf of, you can see reference to CP3876 just before halfway down in column 7 on this page The Brake pad dimensions come from this page Make of it what you will.
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From the AP racing catalog for 2019 Caliper CP3876 shows as using pad style CP2399
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#5 - Go read the recent thread on K Series radiators
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Toby S - just to reiterate, cleaning the contacts resolved the problem for me, if root of your problem is in this connector then I would expect a careful clean would, if only temporarily, resolve it so confirming likely problem source.
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I had issue with, what I think from your description is same plug, and the fuel pump - see post #32 in this thread https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/fuel-pump-8
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I did that, countersunk bolt with appropriate washer - much better, took an angle grinder to a spanner to help grip the nut, also I think I used some 8mm rivnuts in the channel, need to consider clearance on the slider but it is possible.
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Not a lot in here about short prop shafts any more! :-)
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I suspect you will find the issue is in the three way switch, as the third position is only supplying a low current to the relay then any resistance on those contacts will easily kill current flow.
