Jim 123

It is not clear to me, but if you did get the grub screw out before you removed the knob, you may need to put something (e.g. a fiber washer or two) into the head of the knob aperture so that it does not screw as far onto the stick as at present (1 rotation less) and then use you grub to fix it in the 12 o'clock.

Have you checked the forward lower face of the knob as there is likely to have been the smallest Allen Key grub screw securing the knob in the correct orientation. This should be loosened off before attempting removal.

An initial fill is usually larger than a service fill. I guess 4.5 litres for first fill and start up. 4 litres thereafter for oil and filter service as per Ford spec.

Not a daft question and hopefully a Duratec owner will comment. Meantime..... If I check my Sigma engine when hot after 30 secs from switch off the oil level reads low. However after a blat, by the time I switch off, climb out, realign my ageing spine, have a pee, remove the bonnet etc. etc. my hot oil reading tends to be OK. Between switch off and getting to the dipstick the process probably takes me at least 5 mins. I have a preference to check my oil before I start up and set off. After an oil and filter change, with a short start up and cool down you can mark your dipstick to indicate your cold oil level. I remain surprised how much the full dipstick readings on my car vary between hot and cold.

There can be a tendency to put too much more fluid in the reservoir than needed on initial fill, and the standard seal is not great. A syringe can be used to lower the level to the marker line. Make sure any earlier spill from the cap is dried off and removed as it does tend to hang around the big plastic warning label under the cap, which can convince you that the leak persists.

Aerobod a work of genius!

Thanks Jonathan. Using your FINIS Code I managed to track down a set of like for like replacements that are winging their way towards me.

My Sigma 1.6 Ti VCT engined Seven is being treated to it's 2nd annual service and I want to change the plugs. I wish to stay with same FoMoCo plugs as were supplied with the original engine, but I am struggling to get the Ford Part Number. The original plugs are FoMoCo CYFS-12VN4. Unfortunately my local dealer is unable to source the plugs without a Ford Part Number or a FINIS Code. Does anybody know the Ford Part Number or FINIS for FoMoCo CYFS-12VN4 spark plugs.

Is there any sign of brake fluid traces or fluid marking the powder coat on either side of the flange where the braided hose connects into the copper pipe brake feed from the master cylinder. It could also be a pinhole under the metal braiding in the hose feeding the T piece. Jonathan's idea of tissue paper, but also wrapped around the braided hose, then a firm foot on the brake pedal for say 2 x 30 seconds constant pressure might reveal a source of leak.

Silicon Hoses Com in Gloucester are very helpful. They have stock items and will also make up bespoke shapes.

Drips forming on the RH A frame? Might be worth also looking at the brake unions in that area above the frame.

Jerry, as a next step why not get the gearstick off. There is just a small chance that the issue my be with the stick assembly or where it engages with the selector remote arm at the back of the box.. From my rapidly deteriorating memory of the type 9, the gearshift sits in a ball socket with a nylon liner which can wear / fracture. You can also check the prongs on the base of the lever. With the stick removed you should also be able to manipulate the remote arm in the 1, 2, 3, 4 position to see if you can get the selectors to engage which may help narrow things down.

If the clutch is OK and you can engage 5th you should be able to roll the car forward in 5th (engine off) and clutch depressed, without the wheels trying to turn the engine. Can you engage reverse? If so I'd try the foregoing also. If the clutch is OK it might be worth popping off the gearstick and then the selector cover for a further look.

Why not give CC a call. If they have already fitted the standard door mirror mounts to you car side screens (they come from different suppliers) explain that you don't want these fitted and ask if they will swap for a couple of virgin doors on the basis that any doors prepped for your car can be put onto the next due factory build order. Make sure they pop the mirror mounts and mirrors in the boot for future use.

Marcus, if you are going for a colour change and black stripes, have you thought about getting the stripes painted on? If this is done before the clearcoat is applied you'll get a very different level of appearance vs vinyl stripes.

Beat me to it Jonathan !

Derek do a Google for Durable Dot Tool. They cost about a fiver and will do the job well.

Phil a heads up. To save you having to buy another centre pad for your QR Momo, you might want to get some extra 3M Dual Lock to supplement the meager existing fixing to the wheel. I speak from experience having spent 2 hours searching for my lost centre boss in a Spanish hotel whilst it went up and down in an elevator after it became inexplicably detached.

Re side repeater wiring, the build manual gives details of how to route the cables inside the wing stays which is possibly the neat solution you are looking for. Re adhesives, have a look at Sikaflex 292i which is a marine structural adhesive which cures in reaction to atmospheric moisture content. Given you local climatic extremes, I'd venture that if you bond direct to the existing wing stay powder coat, the weak link could come from the powder coat and how it deals with newly induced tensile stresses. You could get up to 6 BigHeads per wing fixed with 292i and then locked to the wing stays with 2 heavy duty cable ties per BigHead. (4 BH's fastners per wing is the norm). If one BigHead was to fail you'd pick this up during routine checks but have the remainder doing their job. Not the case with a blob of adhesive in your demanding climate.

Have you tried clutchless changes at different engine speeds. If everything is nice and slick it points to the clutch. Likewise if the issue is still evident it is likely to be in the box.

It might be. Have you checked the garage?

Just to mention for your retest regarding: "it wouldn't self centre at 10mph". The IVA Test criteria is for "a degree of self centering" i.e. not fully self centering. And this has to be "when the vehicle is driven above 10 mph." Best of luck.

FYI I've been out in my Seven this afternoon and checked if the steering will self centre at 10 mph and it will not. Around 15 mph or above is when it centres up. It would be helpful if a few other owners could check their cars out as added comparison. My car passed the IVA, and with almost 8K miles on the clock things should be a bit more free than when the IVA was carried out.. It might be an idea to look at Ian's temporary suggestion. Banging up the tyre pressures should also help for this particular test point.

Not something I've found with new TRE's before. Removal choices ... Ball joint spliiter / lever and fulcrum under the TRE's plus hammer on the lever end / if the chassis is on stands you can also try positioning a jack under the TRE's and gently raising it to ease the taper free. Assume your tyre pressures are not too low, and ithe ssue is not the road wheels centering but the steering wheel is not centered.

Jonathan re #20. From memory Block Exemption laws in relation to Vertical Arrangements with regards to repairs and servicing would be the EU rulings that are being contravened in this instance. On another slant, I thought Titan did a components supply service for their internal parts? For a DIY / 3rd party rack refurb, the parts description and main dimensions should be sourcable from Titan without mentioning the "C" word.