Jim 123

Check your old PM's. I am sure that I mentioned how to do this a few weeks back.

I don't think that's a worry Scott, but in terms of CC scheduling radiators for factory car build, or new kits it would make sense. They will no doubt be looking for commonisation on as many components in their BOM that they can.

It would be logical to put the change down to parts rationalisation as it looks like the 620 uses the same rad as the latest spec for 420 race.

Sigma ditto

A Micro Maglite on a lanyard is handy for nocturnal navigation.

Great solution and detective work Chris. On my Sigma the issue is totally seasonal. I get maybe 1 drip that sits on the LH horn upper casing when the car is parked up for a few days and the air temp goes down below about 8 degrees. I'd bet that most cars with this configuration have the issue but the coolant weep is so minimal that it goes unnoticed.

Siliconhoses.com in Gloucester will make a hose to your design and are very capable. Re the bobbin, why not get your M8 30 x 15 turned down to your desired size in a lathe. I'm pretty sure lots of people on here would have the kit to do that for you.

I think the Exige must be feeling neglected. Depending on how much space you need to get it out, and from your photos, could you fit the front wheels and use your engine crane front then rear to do a sideways shuffle?

I think you underestimate that you have made really fantastic progress, particularly given the absence of local owners who can pop round to your garage and give support, share ideas, or simply listen to you cursing when things don't go as you expected. Why not put a cover over the car until after Christmas, and I'd hope that the current issues will be seen as quickly fixable baby steps when you come back. If you read the blogs, many builders look at the CC standard practices (which to be fair are usually more than fit for purpose, if sometimes not always elegant) but then elect to do certain things their preferred way, even though it takes more planning and time. I certainly did so on a number of fronts, and was supported along the way by Derek who has built a good few cars in his time.

Duplicate sorry

The trim is an IVA requirement. Self tappers are a good solution as suggested.

If you haven't done this before it is a bit fiddly. In your photo do you have the bottom 2 fasteners aligned and done up?

It'd be interesting to learn at what stage it does not fit. When I lost my nose cone virginity it took me a couple of attempts before figuring out that the I did not have the profiles around the ARB aligned. Tom talking of photos does your coolant need topping up?

If the bobbin was half the thickness would there still be an issue.

Just looking at your photo of the factory SV from Derek in #22, it looks like that car has a waisted bobbin, and if you zoom in you will see it has been cut back on the top face under the hose union.

Looking at your photos again, admittedly with my failing eyesight, but it looks like you need to gain very little extra clearance to get things to fit.. In addition to the above, have you considered loosening the bobbins and moving things to the right a little, and / or taking a little metal of the upper innermost edge of the chassis mounting bracket?

If it is the chassis bracket that is obstructing the hose, given that the radiator bolts are located into slots, can you position the radiator a little to the right in order to achieve clearance?

Sorry if I am misreading the photos, but what happens if, rather than route the rad hose to the right of the tank, you take it over the top and to the left of the tank cap.

Why not fit the top rad hose and if you need to drain the catch can use a 200 mil syringe with a length of tube fitted. An alternative, as it appears service access is going to be challenging would be to fit the catch tank elsewhere.

The convention is to bend the throttle pedal arm. Alternative is the thread the cable through the hole in the arm and fit a Kart throttle cable clamp without bending. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kart-Cable-Clamps-GOLD-Annodised-for-Throttle-Brake-Cable-Pack-of-4-KPUK/382209600217?hash=item58fd77aad9:g:~AkAAOxywh1TAFrh:rk:3:pf:0

On mine I used an extension bar, with a socket on the end which has a straight length of Allen Key inserted into it. Go down from the space at the top of the inside of the upper chassis LH longitudinal.

Mark, a couple of thoughts before you get out the revolver...... Space is really tight in this LH engine Bay Area, and yours appears a little more so. You may want to consider getting a bespoke hose made up which is not a big bucks investment (Caterham may have something in the parts bin to suit if we can come up with a spec). These are everyday hydraulic hose items as used on your average family JCB. Why not check if you can get clearance if you try the radiator cooler hose end with the 90 degree elbow. If this does not work an alternative spigot into the sump will be available. Try a Google on oil cooler hose fittings.

In Aerobod's photos it looks to me that the internal angle of the elbow is 135 degrees, and I assume yours is the same? Would you still get a touch condition if the internal angle was 90 degrees?

Could you get a good straight on fit with the lower connector if you offer the hose to the union with the whole hose orientated rearwards? You might then be able to rotate the hose down then forward in order to thread the other end of the hose up into position before doing a full tighten up?

Give my regards to Derek, I guess you'll be speaking with him.