Jim 123
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Everything posted by Jim 123
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Is the connection on the opposite end of the pipe which you have straight or elbow?
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O/T - Volkwagen cambelt & waterpump change - parts brand INA & Circoli
Jim 123 replied to Nick Bassett's topic in TechTalk
From memory, Euro Car Parts who are one of the UK's largest suppliers to the non-franchised garage trade, control and possibly own the Circoli brand. In this type of arrangement there is some chance that Euro are sourcing from OEM suppliers whose contracts preclude them from participating against the OEM in the aftermarket. Equally, some parts could be sourced from 3rd party suppliers who clone OEM designs. I'd speculate that the motor trade at large would not endorse fitting of Circoli parts if there was a high failure rate, as the trade would have to cover the labour content of repairs. The INA belt is made by a major OEM supplier Schaeffler who own the brand, and it will probably be a re-badged OEM part. -
I think you will find that this is normal even with the dampers fitted. When I lift my car with a trolley jack under the De Dion, and then lower it on to axle stands under the rear chassis, the same touch condition occurs when the De Dion is hanging with the jack removed. However with a laden vehicle under spirited road conditions I have never had a problem with max rebound.
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The part in #10 looks like a small bore hose that fits to the top spigot on the expansion bottle.
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Mark, I think this is a toss of a coin. The curved version in #4 is pretty typical of what you will see under the hood in most Sevens after the Sub. What configuration of hose do you intend to make from the engine into the Sub?
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If you zoom into the photo on page 127 of the older Manual you will see the hose you should be working with along with the submarine fitted.
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I think you will find a description in the 2015 Manual where the L hoses fit and their purpose is described. Without seeing the question you asked Derek, he is correct that it is a straight piece of hose that spans from the Sub to the heater.
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If you look closely you should see it has a bridge connection to the starter body case from the left stud i.e. an earth.
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Brown is positive. The RH (outermost) stud takes the 2 brown wires with ring connectors, brown from the alternator, and red from battery which you should leave disconnected at the other end for now. At the back of the build manual you will see the wiring diagram for the other colour coded connections.
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If you order BigHeads they come in 2 sizes. Make sure you source the items with a 15mm gap between the loops as opposed to the smaller product. I'm with Anthony in advocating Sikaflex to bond the tywraps to the wings, but quite specifically Sikaflex 292i.
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Your logic sounds good to me. Is it possible to disconnect the econoseal connector that joins the sender to the engine loom and check if you can get electrical continuity through the sender to prove it is faulty?
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Is the imobiliser disengaging. They can sometimes need resetting if the battery goes flat.
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Radiator back out and go in from the front?
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Can you position the carrier so that the fixing lugs are supported on each side, say between a couple of bricks on your garage floor, and so that it is facing with the bearing hanging down and able to fall free. Get a length of wood / billet that will sit on the rear face of the bearing evenly from above. Wallop the bit of wood with a heavy lump hammer and it should come free.
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As far as I know the bolts come already inserted in these large capacity rads that are fitted to the 420R and 620.
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A really good idea John.
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It's not essential and will be fine as is. I wouldn't worry about the gearbox oil scenario, but it is good practice to lubricate metal to metal surfaces. Grease on the propshaft splines is also an inhibitor of driveline clunk.
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Correct. A good slobber of grease inside the propshaft splines and around the outer faces is helpful.
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CtrMint he install looks fine. The design of mountings on the 620/420R rads. with the pre installed mounting bolts sandwiched between the bracket and radiator body is probably an acceptable design to enable the large capacity rad to fit the standard chassis mounts. I don't think there are spring washers under the pre fitted bolt heads, and keeping an eye on any of the bolts loosening off over time might be wise. No doubt Derek will feed back that standard bolts are too long to fit the bobbins.
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When you had the one off problem (which on my speedo would be between 85 up to 110) what gear were you in, and at what revs. Could wind conditions / direction, or the gradient of the road have been working against the aerodynamic slippyness of your 7.
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The fixing is caphead bolts with washers passing down through the chassis, and nyloc nuts and washers holding the box mount in place from underneath. The capheads can turn as you tighten up the nylocs. You need an Allen key socket and long extension bar that can pass down the spaces in the transmission tunnel to hold the capheads.
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Have you considered top to bottom flushing out the heater rad.
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N1ck why don't you call Jonathan at his business. You never know he might even give you a genuine wet signature on the car.
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Re Paul's comment, you will need to discuss with Tony how to package, handle shipping and contents declaration of hazardous goods to the US.
