Jim 123

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Might be worth checking if the gearbox output shaft bearing has suffered when you swap the prop.

Does not sound typical. In the rest position where does the clutch pedal sit relative to the brake pedal?

If you wanted CF would you consider 3M wrap film with the carbon weave face? Not sure if it will fix to the standard dash surface.

A solid piece of engineering. It would be interesting to know what the implications are for the standard boot cover and roof fit

Given the protracted history of your car, when you contact Jordan or Bronwyn at Caterham make sure you quote your VIN as they have some controls on the issuance to f the Certificate of Newness mentioned above.

To be honest IMHO, the 2K hardened touch up is not a great solution for repairing stone chips especially with a brush and if you want to produce a close to invisible repair. I've worked up a personal technique that works for me using a range of non-brush applicators and thinned paint applied in layers I would suggest that anybody with a pot of Caterham touch up gives Chipex a call and arrange for them to colour match their stone chip repair system to your sample. Club discount is available from memory. Anyone with a CC supplied pot of touch up should be conscious that the paint systems used are different for metallic and solid colours. The solid colours are not typical of today's car paint systems, but are still very fit for purpose. Caterham solid colours do not have a clearcoat on top as the colour achieves it's own gloss which makes stone chip repair more straighforward.. With metallics, the system is a traditional clearcoat laquer on top of a basecoat. The basecoat itself has a mat finish and needs the clear on top. To answer Orange's point, Tony at TSK in Erith will sort you out with hardener to match your paint.

When I did my build I packed the inner splines of the propshaft with grease, but that was more a precaution against driveline clunk coming on and off throttle. I did not look at the condition you are observing when I was building, but it may not be untypical and I haven't done too much driving at the 100+ speeds where you are encountering the vibration. If you look at the video 42 sec in, it looks like circlip holding the bearing cup might not be original and is bent. Not a solution but perhaps an indication of some earlier work on the shaft, or just a trick of the camera.

Due to the camera angle it's hard to see if it is the female splined end of the shaft that is moving because of fit over the tailshaft or is the U/J yoke causing the movement. Have you greased the propshaft joints using the nipples?

You need to submit the following along with a covering letter: Cheque for £290 or whatever it now is ; completed Form V55/4 ; 2 copy documents to prove your identity ; IVA Cert of Approval ; signed Certificate of Newness from Caterham* ; completed Form V627/1 ; Manufacturer's Invoices for the detailed kit; Cover Note from your Insurer** ; Stamped SAE if you want your paperwork returned. * Add the words "Mileage = zero miles" to the form. ** Best to get 60 days cover described on the note incase things get held up.

The recent thread on "Caterham Orange... " may help.

Finmac if you are going to mix a small amount for brush touch up, can I suggest the following to preserve your quantity of pre mixed colour and give you time for the paint to remain workable. Er significantly on the side of less hardener as you low volume of paint will cross link effectively. Also add a slow thinner which will again give you better brush workability. Without heat being applied, keeping the touch up areas protected overnight is also a good idea.

Take some tools, spare protectors, and cable ties just incase you are asked to fettle something minor to avoid a fail. Work the brakes as best you can on the way to the centre to bed them in, as they will be tested. No idea about the IoM test, but if you haven't already submitted the certificate of newness, build photos, copies of invoices etc. it may be sensible to take these along as well. Best of luck on Friday.

Neil, just to mention that there is a Get To Know Your Sven article on Roll Cages and Roll Bars in the Guides section of this website if you haven't seen it.

Have you made contact with your local area group as I am sure they will be able to help in many ways? I would also consider getting a cheap dolley truck to have your engine placed on when it is delivered. It makes life a lot easier during the build to shuffle things around your garage if you don't have a crane to hand.

Re #25 am I correct in thinking that you have the engine fitted but the prop is not already fitted in the tunnel?

As Jonathan suggests, it is not a good idea to try and get more oil in than the filler plug will allow with the car level as you could get leaking seals. Re the filler plug access, my car is a later model with the Mazda box so the following may not apply. Lift back the carpet from the passenger lower footwell along the side of the transmission tunnel. You might find there is a large removable grommet that allows access to the filler plug.

Have a look at the multi plug connector at the bottom of the coil pack just incase it has taken a knock during the install.

Mark is right, it is essential to check you have oil pressure before firing up the engine. No need to worry about the engine light. It is not connected to the ecu.

Simon, when you say that you get whine at 50 mph it is a bit hard to interpret what you might be encountering in order to assist. Is the whine only at 50 and do you drive through the whine by increasing or decreasing road speed? Does it occur in all gears at 50? Do you still get the noise within the same road speed range with the car coasting in neutral? Does the noise frequency vary when you are on or trailing the throttle? Have you noticed the whine beginning within a rev range regardless of gear?

On the road or static?

Just had a look at my Sigma, if you let me know the colour of the wires in 1/ I'll have another look. The only things I could see would be one of the connectors feeding into the ECU block might have come out but you've probably checked that.

Chris the 2 leads at the front are surplus.if you have the cooling fan connected. The plug at the rear looks like the loom connection for the lambda sensor lead.

Do you get the problem when you rev the engine with the car static? Perhaps as a next step take out the plugs and see if there are any clues in terms of condition, gaps, and discolouration. If the plugs are the original Ford plugs, gap settings above 1.0mm have an association with premature failure of the coil pack.

Is it worth sourcing some bicycle brake gaiters to see if they can be slipped into position with the cable disconnected from the caliper?