Jim 123
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Everything posted by Jim 123
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Fuel not getting through both carbs seems strange based on what you have done to date. As HJF says in #6, as a cross check, if you disconnect all plugs and crank the engine are all 4 plugs dry? Is it worth checking compressions on each cylinder?
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Is the vibration linked to an engine rev range or is it road speed related?
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Just a cautionary mention, if you are going to adjust the camber, this should be done before setting the tracking. If the camber needs setting you might want to do this yourself or get some advice on here rather than entrust the job to ThikFit.
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If you have a copy of the Build Manual for your car the numbers you need are towards the back of the manual. It's probably page 184 from looking at my copy.
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Thanks both much appreciated.
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After trying a number of alternative designs of gaiter, I'm going to replace my knackered top wishbone gaiters with the Caterham standard items that have the metal collar around the large opening. I'd welcome suggestions as to what method to use to get the metal gaiter collar to slot into the seat in the ball joint carrier. My current thinking is to pre position the gaiter over the ball joint on a bench and using a short length of 40mm diameter thick wall plastic pipe and a hammer to tap the metal ring into it's seat in the carrier. Any advice from experienced hands would be appreciated as I only have enough parts for 1 successful attempt in the morning.
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Duplicate
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For your spring question speak with Associated Springs Raymond in Evesham. They should be able to match the dimensions of your existing spring but with a range of alternatives for compression rates. Do you get the "Kangaroos" only when applying very small throttle inputs at low speed? If so that could be down to low levels of stiction in either direction somewhere in the linkages, or a small amount of free play in the cable, neither of which you might feel through your right shoe.
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Valves sticking open or slow to reseat. Interesting that all valves appear to have been affected. Any clues when you were on track from water temp, oil pressure, or oil consumption.
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You mention that the rub is on the "rearmost" wing stay. Is there any possibility that the wing stay fixing may not be fully seated in the recess?
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You mention that the rub is on the "rearmost" wing stay. Is there any possibility that the wing stay fixing may not be fully seated in the recess?
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Thanks indeed guys. I'm playing around with one of these EBay digital inclinometer devices which is giving some surprisingly good results in terms of repeatability. Next step is to check accuracy now that I know how many degrees shift I should get when I turn the ball joint thread.
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I have a standard S3 metric car with 14 inch wheels. Does anybody know what the increase / decrease in camber angle should be if you rotate the top ball joint 1 complete turn on its thread? This would help me to check the calibration of of a camber angle measurement tool that I have farkled together.
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Thanks I'll give Redline a call. I want to source gaiters without the integrated metal ring as I think this contributes to the rubber splitting during max compression.
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Does anybody know where I can source upper wishbone ball joint gaiters that will fit an S3 metric car. I'd like to experiment with some alternatives to the original parts, but so far my searches have failed to identify anything that is dimensional close in terms of hole diameters and overall height.
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With the Mazda box, the filler / level plug is on the LH side and the bolt has a square head, not to be mistaken for the hex head bolt that is located directly below it. If you pull back the carpet in the front of the passenger footwell you should find a large rubber grommet that will give you direct access. Whilst it is not a routine service item, the Mazda box has a separate top up for the selector turret which is accessed by removing the gearshift. This seldom needs attention but worth checking if you ever have the trim cover off the driveline tunnel.
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With the seal lubricated most oil filters torque to a spec of 11-ish Nm which is most likely what you will comfortably achieve by hand tightening. They always need quite a bit more force to undo come service time.
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Thanks Tazio learning point well made.
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I can't convince myself on the benefits of removing the plugs and washing the bores with unignited gasoline after a lay up.
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Is it worth trying to get a dial gauge reading on the drive shafts to see if there is any deformation along the main length.
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I don't think it's is necessary to glue mine are at 3 years and 10K miles. Where are yours lifting? Is the join on the rear edge in the middle?
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You may want to consider how your ski jump might affect the seat base tending to "submarine" if something solid gets in your way with the seat in the fully forward position? As per Stephens comment, I have seen a custom made, leather trimmed, one piece supplementary seat and backrest cushion that the Caterham dealership uses for demo drives where the customer is vertically limited. The main benefit is that it allows the driver to sit about 50mm nearer to the pedals because of the backrest padding.
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I had something similar with a Sony. There is a small microswitch inside the jack plug socket for the power lead on some DAB's which disconnects the battery feed when the mains power lead is fully inserted. The switch can fail and not trip to mains-only feed when the jack plug is inserted. I found this out by using the tried and tested wiggle and thump diagnostic.
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With your seat runner idea, you may want to check if you can get the seat to slide forward enough as the seat pad might start to foul on the side of the transmission tunnel and inhibit travel forward?
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I got some stainless bike stuff time back. They were pretty good at fabricating what I wanted.
