Scotland North AR

I have a standard one which I've never fitted or used.

Hi Jonathan, two cannisters and two black bags please.Ta.

£90 plus postage. The tank and hoses may fit any engine but the oil pump adapter is probably Sigma specific.

In October two of us had the Premier Power F175 engine conversion done to our Sigma 150 cars. Highly recommended by the way. This means that there are two sets of parts which were removed during the conversion for sale. These comprise the following: - Cams, Jenvey throttle bodies with fuel rail and injectors, air filter and ECU with Sigma 150 calibration. The left-over parts will convert either a 125 Sigma or 140 Sigma to a 150 Sigma. Premier Power has all the set-up data for the cams so this will be available to the new owner. Premier Power would also be happy to fit these for someone if required at extra cost. My set of equipment is for sale for £600 o.n.o. Peter’s has the benefit of the ECU having been set up on rolling road by the two Steve’s at SBD. Peter’s set up is £750 o.n.o., please contact Peter via Blatchat user name “Domus” or by e-mail “phaslam54@gmail.com”

Thanks, nice to hear it isn't just me who has found the problem. There is obviously and issue here......which needs resolving needless to say.

I think so, having slept on it, it's going back. Very fortunately, I'm not hugely out of pocket on this as the insurance paid for it, I would have been mightily disappointed had I paid for it. Hopefully the overall message is that you need to be quite careful when buying a new nose for an old car.

After speaking to Caterham today, the bonnet design changed about four years ago as did the nose cone. You cannot buy a 2009 SV nose cone as advertised on the Caterham website, it will be a design from circa 2013. It fits a CSR perfectly as I established earlier at Blue7's. The guys in the factory fit the nose, then fit the bonnet, then move the scuttle backwards or forwards to get the shut lines perfect. Not a good option when you are trying to replace the nose on an old car. The best option is to have the old nose fixed from what I have learned above. The guy at Aberdeen Fibreglass couldn't have been more helpful when I dropped the old nose off and there is a car body shop which can do the spraying in the next building. If I had known all the above before going for my insurance funded repair, I'd have gone a different route and had the car sent back to Caterham. Regarding selling it, I'll see if Caterham will take it back first. I'd certainly be wary, given the above, of buying a nose then hoping it fits as a straight swap. I'll keep you posted.

Hi, I has a Spanish lady reverse into the nose cone on my car back in July in Spain. Living in Aberdeen I decided to get the insurance to get me a new nose cone from Caterham fully painted and delivered, which they did. This morning I spent two hours fiddling and measuring trying to make it fit.....which it doesn't! It needs to go 10mm forwards to allow the length of the bonnet to fit. It is also 10mm wider than the front of the car. It also has the wrong radius for for the underside of the bonnet thereby leaving a big gap. As it is generally too big, there's not a lot which can be done about it. I assume between 2009 and now, there have been a number of different moulds or indeed a range of suppliers (with different moulds). I'll be putting the nosecone in the "for sale" section but would caution people when getting a new nose cone to do a few dimensional checks, particularly for older cars. Anyone need a Viper Blue nose cone fully armourfended? Anyone else had this sort of problem? PS, the old nose cone fits like a glove with no gapes anywhere.

Hi, has anyone got a surplus one they don't want as a a result of an upgrade? Mine has damaged inlet pipe which may or may not be repairable satisfactorily.

Hi again, as far as I know it is standard. Hopefully I'll get a sketch of the internals tomorrow off Cheesmans so can look at how it should be repairted along the lines of the above.

Thanks for that, spoke to Paul at Cheesmans (01252 516180), very helpful. He said that the parent metal was 304 stainless and advised 308L stainless welding wire be used for the repair. Exhaust now with local agricultural workshop so I'm expecting a 25mm fillet weld all round and 4 pieces of 3" angle iron along it to brace it up. If I get any other feedback from Cheesmans I'll post it to complete the story.

Hi, just returned from a 2,500 mile trip to Spain after the 60th meeting, washed the car and found the exhaust weld had cracked on the front of the silencer. The weld must have cracked and propagated out to the end plate in a couple of places. Not sure what would have happened if it had completely failed as the tube doesn't seem to go far into the silencer I live near Aberdeen so shouldn't have an issue getting a welder to weld it up. Anyone know who makes these silencers? Anyone know what grade of stainless it is so the right consumables can be used? Anything I should be aware of before just getting it welded?

Well, I've had a look this morning and it looks a right bugger to get at the cabling on the back of the motor so have lubricated the gears and spindles then tried to break it again. In the garage using the washer and the wipers, couldn't get it to blow. The car has been in the grage for two days so hopefully has dried out somewhat since last week's deluges.

Hi Jonathan, will tackle it tomorrow when it has been back in the garage a few days. Everything else works fine. Certainly the wettest conditions I've ever driven through. Yes, I've got the diagram thanks.

Just had a great week near Ballater with the LADS and some more local guys but the weather let us down a tad. Yesterday and today blew numerous fuses on the wipers, a ten amp one instantly after the 15 amp ones ran out. The fifteen amp one's blew either instantly or after about ten minutes of switching the wipers on and off due to the rain. The car has been through several six inch deep puddles this week so no doubt a lot of damp has got in. The car is eight years old with 40,000 on the clock and is a Sigma 150. What are the best tests to do to try and trace the problem? Might the motor be over the hill? The linkages need lubricating? Other?

Thanks Jonathan, there were no fuses blown, the head lamp bulb just shattered for some reason, maybe a cheap bulb. The car is always driven gently and I don't go over bumps or potholes*biggrin* I'll need to look for the workshop notice WN572 now.

Hi, after driving to Applecross from Aberdeen in a deluge on Saturday, ended up with a blown headlight bulb, non-functioning brake lights (dead switch in the end) and a dead speedo. Can the sensor mounted near the rear wheel be tested on a multi-meter to see if it is the culprit, if so how?

Available cheap as chips from Screwfix if that helps. £16 for ten and in stainless steel, just bought some the other day.

Thanks to Ivan and Robert for the ideas, I bought some 5mm aluminium plate of Amazon and made some brackets like the ones shown on the photos. I cut them out of the plate using a standard jigsaw with a metal cutting blade in it. Painted them with POR15 paint which is pretty bullet proof stuff...especially when trying to get it off your hands or the kitchen table. I didn't realise until I looked on Amazon how cheap it was to buy the plate let alone that you actually could. Picture is what I ended up with and also a sketch of wot I made. I'm sure there will be some better artisans on here who can make a more professional job but it's a cheap solution to the pain in the cheaky bits problems, mirror vibration and doors not opening fully. In addition, I can reach the drivers one to adjust without taking the belts off. I do agree with the above that Caterham should do something similar as standard. http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/nigel_simpson/Mirror%20Bracket_zpsbhdb1pr8.jpg http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/nigel_simpson/IMG_3667_zpsrnslxxbm.jpg

Hi Peter, yes I do wait for the brief whirring to stop as it pressurizes. Normally I don't touch the throttle until after a few minutes of cranking and nothing else has worked until that point therefore not sure whether it has/hasn't helped.

Hi again, the cranking speed is great and it seems to maintain that speed for the time it takes to start hence my thought that it was fuel/ecu related rather than battery or starter.

Hi, I have a 2009 Sigma 150, it does about 7,000 miles per year. It is kept on a battery conditioner all of the time and if you point towards the ignition key it starts instantly.......except.....when it is left without starting for two/three weeks it is a bugger to start. It takes 2,3,4 minutes of cranking and a bit of accelerator pumping before kicking into life. The same day, next day, it fires up instantly once again? What is going on in the period when it is idle for a few weeks and is there anything I can test for? If so, what and how? When going through the normal start procedure, you can hear the fuel pump whirring for a couple of seconds to pressurise up. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Set of four winter tyres and alloys. From MX5 late 2013 variant, 5 stud. Cost £720 new November 2014 from Demon Tweeks. Not many winter miles, 6-7mm tread on the tyres. Wheels are not curbed. Wheels Dezent V 7x17. Tyres Ovation 205/45R17. £320 for the set + postage. Wheels are near Aberdeen. http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm141/nigel_simpson/IMG_3082_zpssbjx1ln6.jpg

Hi, I seem to have a leaking seal on the front of the diff on my SV. Does anyone know if it can be replaced in situ or is it a diff out job? Presumably there needs to be room to get a puller in to get the shaft flange off. Anyone done it, if so how long did it take? Thanks.

Hi, with the SPA Design ones, does the door still fully open and is the vibration gone with them being mounted further forward on the door?