thompster

Sent a pm about the tunnel bag...

I've not heard that Academy tanks were sometimes smaller before - weren't they all Roadsport spec? Aside from bag tanks there is only one Rover tank showing on Caterhamparts so hoping this is a myth, otherwise I'll be chugging to a halt somewhere in Normandy on Friday...

I bought some of the Cibies a fortnight ago and found the same thing - there is no step in the rim of the lens which makes them tricky to centre. I slackened the retaining springs slightly (i.e. bent them) which made them much easier to fit. It took a couple of goes to get the lenses central but fine once in. I did consider the more modern 'crystal' types but thought they'd look odd on a caterham.

Hi Malcolm, clutch cable received today, many many thanks. Let me know where to send payment, James.

Hi, just seen your reply to my wanted request.. I'll have the clutch cable if it's still available and you can post it? Let me know how much you want including p&p..

Overtightening? Or maybe just bad luck.

Anyone got a cheap clutch cable going spare before I spend £28 on a new one? I'm after a spare to go in the boot so serviceable is fine, it doesn't have to be new/shiny. Car is a 2007 metric K16. Thanks... Sorted now - thanks all.

Some interesting posts there. My IACV has always chattered a bit (learnt the correct term now) but usually settles down. Yesterday I was fitting new wiper blades as part of my LM Classic prep and the IACV was chattering away non-stop. I reseated the plug but no difference. If, as said above, the IACV doesn't feed back to the ECU then the chattering has to be either because the ECU keeps changing its mind, or possibly because the IACV can't set itself as requested - maybe it keeps overshooting or is gummed up? I guess that depends on how it actually works, what the ECU is acting on and whether the IACV knows if it's moved correctly. Revilla - you're right; if it ain't broke and all that. But I can't believe a K16 in a Rover 25 or MGF or whatever does this, and a few people above have said their caterhams don't so it does seem a bit odd. Fingers crossed it goes back to a slight chatter and gets me to France and back but if anyone has any technical info about how it actually works and what the ECU does I'm all ears. Edited: John Milner - thanks for those links to detailed info.. just reading them now. Double edit: From one of John's links: S2 (PWM) The S2 ECU cant measure where the IACV is so has to count the drive pulses it sends and remember the position, then tries to return to a datum every ignition on/off. If it loses track e.g. battery disconnected the ignition needs to be switched on to position 2 and off several times to run the valve back to the datum. So.. perhaps this explains why not everyone has this and why production rovers didn't: if you have a battery isolator it will hunt on start-up and if you don't it won't.

Thanks both.. its always done it a bit but tonight it seemed more frantic than normal. I'll stop worrying.

Lots on the forum about hunting idle but I can't find exactly this. When I turn my ignition on the IACV hunts constantly but the car starts and runs fine and the hunting stops once running. Is this normal and if not what should I do? EU3 K16 with Supersport ECU in case it matters.

Anyone looking to sell a large tunnel bag for a realistic price? They look useful but not 90 quid useful.

I've recently got ZZS on the front with CR500s on the back while I wait for them to wear out. ZZS are noticeably grippier then the tyres they replaced and feel much more direct - big thumbs up. (I'm sure R888Rs are also very good too)

Thanks all for the links. I'd worry that polyurethane wouldn't have enough 'give' in it and would strain the exhaust but the machine mount links look good. Moz's comment about rubber products sounds familiar - I changed the steering rack gaiters for boxed and branded QH ones last year and they're already starting to go at the edge. Looking at the bobbins today they're quite bad so will be replacing before the LM classic.

I replaced my perished exhaust bobbin with one from a local motor factors but 6 months on it looks as bad as the one it replaced. Is that to be expected or is there a better source I should use?

Thanks Alan.. The Starcom1 website isn't the user-friendliest but I think I've worked it out... It converts a regular Starcom1 headset into a bluetooth headset by interfacing with the wire3 Bluetooth module.

I bought a Starcom1 Advance a while ago which came with various wires and a slightly confusing Bluetooth controller (pic below). It seems to work as a standalone Bluetooth phone adaptor - If I link it with my phone and plug a Starcom1 headset into it I can answer calls and listen to music. Is that what its for or is there some way to connect it to the main Starcom1 Advance control box?

..which is what I should have done in the first place instead of trying to save a few quid. Oh well.

I had the same dilemma last year and was worried that the mohair hood next to the vinyl doors would look odd. I ended up buying mohair purely because there was very little price difference. Now I have it it looks great and I'm glad I got what I did. Had vinyl been much cheaper I would have gone with that though.

I thought about powering them up but wasn't 100% sure what pattern I was looking for. If Jonathan's lenses are also the other way round though, then that pretty much confirms I've got a set of LHD lights - bugger. Back to the 'for sale' section...

I bought some UK spec 5 3/4" headlights from a member a while ago. I finally went to fit them today but have a nasty feeling they're not UK spec after all. My old lenses have a pattern that slopes to the left but these slope to the right. There will hopefully be a picture below. Can anyone tell me if they're ok or from a right hand drive car [update - of course I meant to type left hand drive, as in european spec rather than uk]?

The wife saw a red caterham on the a41 this morning near the Hilton.. She thinks it was a caterham, anyway...

I too have just fitted ZZS on the front but controversially still have CR500s on the back. I've only done 50 damp road miles on them but first impressions are very good. The front feels more planted and held on when the back started to slide. Very impressed so far. The only downside is the price - delivered cost was £230 the pair so much more than something like R888s.

Mine has finally stuck with a mirror pad from eurocarparts and brake cleaner to degrease everything. The trick was to stick the pad to the glass first, rub it down well then leave in the sun for a couple of hours before adding the mirror. Every time I stuck to the mirror first it lasted about a day.

I stuck 3m Anti-squeal pads on the back of my pads and copper-slipped on the edges and it seems to have worked. You can get enough for two sets on ebay for about £6. Alternatively I imagine a softer pad would probably be less squeal-prone?

I used a long tyre lever when I did mine. A bit of trial and error wedging it in but not difficult. As long as you hold the screwdriver or whatever in position in the flywheel until you put some tension on the breaker bar it stays in place on its own. One other tip - read up on how the auto-tensioner works (assuming you have one) as they turn the opposite way to how you might think. youtube videos are helpful.