thompster

I'm sure this has been asked before but which of the dash switches (the classic mini ones) should illuminate? I took a rare twighlight drive tonight and only the wiper and fan switches lit up with the headlights on. Is that normal and if not how do I replace failed bulbs?

1.6 Academy EU3 has standard Rover cams. I swapped mine to Supersport, with SS ECU and vernier pulley and got big gains at higher revs - mostly where the standard setup ran out of puff above 5k the SS setup keeps pulling. I think the quoted Supersport output is 137bhp (sometime stated as 140). No idea what mine puts out now though.

Add a dash mounted toggle switch in the live feed to the shift lights?

Thanks both for your answers which got me thinking - and experimenting. My water rail temperature sender is the newer button/right angle style and my Apollo sender is the older spade connector type, both connected via toggle switch to the same Caterham branded gauge. Time for the saucepan of boiling water: It appears that the resistance of my new style sender is double that of the old style one! OLD New 23C 900 ohm 2000 ohm 52C 288 ohm 600 ohm 100C 76 ohm 145 ohm Without knowing what impedance results in what gauge reading I'm not sure exactly what the gauge will show but I can guess at the answer - my oil isn't reaching 120C at all. Time for a new sender. And just to thicken the plot, while reading up I found quite a few posts where people report the exact same high temps in their apollos. That's got me wondering whether the Apollo kit was shipped with the wrong sender at some point....

82 degree stat and rock steady water temperature at all times. On motorway runs however, my oil temperature can be anything from 100C to 120C measured from the sender in the Apollo tank. I gather windage is the usual cause so today after a long run and high temps I checked the oil level: With engine running the oil is about halfway up the hatched section. Does that rule out too high an oil level and if so should I investigate further or just fit a cooler?

In my 2007 model (Caerbont speedo) the signal wire is taped up in the bundle that go to the tacho plug [corrected! I said speedo before]. Maybe unwind the tape (if yours is the same) and see if you can find it there.

Standard is just over 7kg

I've recently swapped from unknown Mintex in standard calipers for Ferodo DS2500 in Wilwood Powerlites. The mintex squealed when cold/slow no matter what I did - chamfered edges, 3M anti-squeal backing, coppaslip. The ferodos are (so far) as quiet as a mouse.

Alternator belt would tend to squeal more on engine acceleration and reduce as the alternator catches up with the engine speed. Cambelts can squeak if too tight but usually a sort or chirrup/humming sound that can come on as things warm up and the belt gets tighter on hot pulleys. It could also be the cambelt tensioner or possibly water pump but hard to say without hearing it. Best thing is to have a listen with then engine running and bonnet / nose off, try and work out which area its coming from and take it from there.

Iain, thanks for explaining the brake hose issue. Re the 3 part rad, my 2007 vintage still has the original plastic topped rad. I'll say no more for fear of tempting fate.

What was the 'routing of brake line' recall about? Is it related to the solid brake pipe going to floating caliper discussed on another thread or somethign else?

Same here - standard Caterham clutch pedal stop in the pedal box. I have one for the clutch and one for the gas pedal. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/pedals/1472-clutch-pedal-stop-race.html

I was in the green supersport on my way to Predator for an MOT

Hi john, after AP had I should go through caterham I didn't bother. I suspect it was downshifts without rev matching property - i try to heel and toe all the time now. My helix one has been fine so far and I'm still not convinced that either the helix or AP plates are anything special though given one is branded valeo and the other as LUK...

AmorAll original protectant works for me. I suspect back to black type silicon sprays would also work well but not tried it myself.

Paul aka technozen. https://www.technozen-electronics.co.uk Well known in rover circles and I've used his services myself.

Sounds like overkill to me. Whether the oil needs changing will depend on the quality of your oil and its ability to cope with whatever temperature it reached. Assuming you're running something half decent that hasn't burnt itself into a thick brown mess I'm sure it will be fine. Changing it won't do any harm but I doubt you'll gain from it either. As to the filter, a single trackday on a run in engine shouldn't generate any significant amount of debris to clog it. Worth adding that for engines that share gearbox and engine oil - minis and motorbikes etc - the story is different because shear forces in the gear train will break down the polymer chains in the oil, and you'll generally have far more swarf from the geartrain in the filter..

Thanks JV. JIC connections are a mystery to me and not something I've ever had to work out before. Unless anyone else comes along with the connector sizes I'll drop Think auto a line.

Going to fit a Laminova in the top rad hose. I gather I disconnect the top oil hose from my apollo tank and move it to the laminova oil inlet, and then add a new hose from the laminova oil outlet back to the apollo top connection. Anyone know exactly how this is done? Are the apollo hoses a standard JIC size (which?) that will fit straight to the laminova or do I need an adaptor? And what sort of hose do I need to go back from the laminova to the apollo? (Read a thousand archive posts on here but not found an exact answer, plus it's good to talk.)

Laminova wanted, the kind that goes in the top hose of a k series.

Looking for a pair of ZZS 215 55 13 scrubs, Need to replace my aging CR500 rears but given the mileage I do brand new replacements will die of old age before wearing out. Long shot I know as its usually ZZRs being sold on after a couple of races.

Usable part worn or new but kicking around and bargain priced pads for standard rear calipers. Ferodo DS2500, Mintex 1144, Pagid 4-2 or similar please.

That is all.

Previous overheating was a long pedal travel problem - made worse after standing for half an hour. It had new decent fluid (forget what, not motul but something decent) but gave all the symptoms of fluid boil. At the time I assumed it was front but you're probably right that it was the rear. I wonder if something like 3m pad backing material would slow down heat transfer ot the caliper. As above I've fitted the wilwoods because I wanted them though, not as some rationally thought out cost-benefit exercise! Having stuck that photo on I've managed to find a tech manual for the bias valve - first thing is it looks like I'm one click off full rear brakes. Second thing is that even on fully forward (Position 7) it reduces rear pressure by 25%.. 100 bar input reduces to 73 bar. Based on that it seems that if you have a bias valve you need to overbrake the rear to get back where you started.

And just in case I've had it backwards all this time.. here's my bias valve pointing to the front of the car. I hope it's in the 'not restricting anything' position....! (The white stuff on tunnel is gaffer tape residue)