thompster
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Everything posted by thompster
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Hi John (and JK), I have a feeling you suggested I looked for the sensor last time this came up.. I had a quick look under the back and didn't spot anything so perhaps it is taken from something else? My car is a 2006 kit (07 registered) metric chassis K series. As suggested I should just set it according to a sat nav but I'm still curious as to why it is as it is.
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I'll be interested in anything you get back. According to the table my official starting point should be 039558 but my speedo is reasonably accurate and set to 008786. It's certainly not reading 4 times over, anyway, so I wonder if there are different settings for later cars.
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Dont tell me I remembered your name wrong... or rather didnt remember it all? I'll stick with Mankee in that case...
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Thanks Ian - just replied to your message.. I think I will give some Toyos a go, just need to find the best place to buy from now. My front CR500s will just about do another day and I've got a spare just-legal pair for the drive home then Toyos next..
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Monday was good thanks, there was a couple of other caterhams including a very nice orange R400 - didn't find the owner though. Not sure I'll get away with the 6th but let me know what it is if I might be tempted.. need to get some tyres first though..! And on that subject why can't it be simple.. slightly slidey cr500s or more grip but loss of feel from heavy tyres. Decisions decisions.
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Hi mate, Definatley after another set of treaded tyres although lifetime is less of a concern. Bike days are pain in the backside what with all the gear you need to take so with the caterham I'm enjoying just driving to a track, pottering round and driving home again. What CB says about the yokos sounds like what I'm after so maybe I'll go with those.
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Why not ZZS? Good question. CR500 is replaced by ZZS and ZZR, with ZZS being more all rounder/ fast road (I think) and ZZR being track oriented? If that's right then I don't think the ZZS would give me more track grip than the CR500s. That could well be wrong though - I find the avon tyre range a bit confusing. I really like the CR500s but get the feeling they slide a bit too early in order to give plenty of warning. I'd like something that hangs on a bit longer, even at the expense of some of the progressiveness if that makes sense? I've done some reading on here and opinion seemed to be yokos or 888s - maybe that's out of date though.
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Another tyre thread. I've done a couple of trackdays on CR500s and found they slide very progressively and predictably and seem to be a very 'safe' track tyre. I can't help thinking there must be more grip available though so fancy a set of 888s or maybe a048s next. Anyone else switched from CR500s to one of those and been pleased/regretted it? It's just track performance I'm interested in, Thanks
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You tease.....
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Hi, anyone have a pair of fog/reverse lights perhaps removed from a track car? I'm after ones with the standard plugs still attached so I can just plug them in. Ta.
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Brake cleaner - about £1.50 a can from eurocarparts if you order online for collection.
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The undertray fits under the front cruciform and is, I think, standard fit on academy cars where its main purpose is keeping gravel away from the belts. I have one on mine, no overheating problems. Not sure how much it will affect aerodynamics but it keeps a lot of muck out.
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Thanks Mike, I had a quick peer under the back but couldn't spot the sensor. I'll have a proper look next weekend. I think there must be some difference from the settings I've seen, otherwise my speedo would be reading 4x actual speed - it may not be spot on but it's not that far out.
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I've just gone to check and adjust the calibration of my 2006 speedometer (electronic odometer, one button) armed with the recommended value of '039558' for 205/55 CR500s. When I turn on the igntion with the button pressed the speedo flashes '008786' but that's so far off something must be wrong. Are there different settings for 2006 speedos or am I entering the wrong mode? Ta, James.
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Hi Richard, it's the tacho I'm going by that appears to show the engine clearing 7k to what would be about 7200 - if they're prone to over reading that would explain things. Once I get my SS ECU I'll see if it shows me clearing 8k (probably followed by an exploding piston sound...)
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Thanks Probe - it hadn't occurred to me that might be a caterham number... Hi Mankee - I've actually got an SS ECU coming from another member (to go with my newly fitted Supersport cams and verniers) but I was wondering if I'd cocked up and had one already. Since it's got the standard CC part number I'm guessing not so I'll just fit the one I've bought.
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Hi, Can anyone help ID my Rover ECU? I thought it was a standard 120bhp 1600 K series one but the rev limiter is at 7200rpm (should be 6800rpm?). Pics below, one of some writing on the back which has a date and the number '75801R' and one of the printed rover labels which say NNN100743 and M3P11PGLB. Cheers, James. http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m490/thompster/IMG_20150503_1713452_zpszaecf49z.jpg http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m490/thompster/IMG_20150503_1713182_zpssybplulp.jpg
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The devil tempts me... PM sent.
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Hi Richard, it's a 1600 academy engine so an ECU is definatley in order, although I'm not sure how much I can raise the limit without risking the (afaik) standard pistons. I looked at ZandF yesterday so if I can't track down an SS ECU or convince the wife I should buy an Emerald I'll give them a call.
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Sorted - ultimate power here I come (but expect to see a 'wanted' post for an Emerald soon..) Cheers, James.
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Thanks Richard - So thats EU3 SS and 633 or R300 cams please. I've got a lovely set of verniers wating to go on them and I really do need that extra 15bhp...
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Thought I'd have one more go before messaging Oily... If anyone has any decent EU3 supersport or 633 cams for sale drop me a line. I've read that EU2 will work but keen to stick with EU3 for the cam sensor 'just in case'. Ta.
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When I looked into this I think the answer was metric bar will go on to imperial chassis but not the other way around. The locating bushes are shorter on the metric bar ( to increase the clearance over the struts) so you'll need to put a few washers in the wells that they sit in. Not sure if the bolt thread is the same in metric and imperial bars, if not you'll need to make your own shallow headed bolts since the metric bar uses Allen/cap head bolts.
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Thanks both. I quite like the more classic look so not quite ready for a bag seat just yet though I can see the advantages. That Sparco lid looks a better shape - the bike ones tend to be built for aerodynamics hence the angular rears. I'll see if I can find a stockist anywhere sensible
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My bike lid (Shoei X-Spirit 2) has quite a big hangover at the back and catches on the Tillets. I could put some washers under the front of the seat but can anyone recommend a lid, bike or car, that has a shallow rear? Shoei would be good as there's a chance my visors will fit but open to suggestions, Cheers, James.
