ncm
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Everything posted by ncm
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Hi giles, I was thinking of wear more in terms of the inside of the brass cone as it grips the mating cone on the steel gear, theory being that the greater the wear the closer the two sets of dog teeth will become... Guess I'll be stripping it for a look-see this winter. Brian.
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Thanks for taking the time to reply Mankee. As you suggest, replacing the rings when the box is apart is an obvious thing to do, but mine is still in one piece...does anybody have an answer. Brian.
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I have a spare type 9 5 speed bought secondhand as being in good condition and was wondering if it is possible to assess synchro wear by measurement of the gap between the dog teeth of the ring and those on the gear? I can find no reference to this dimension in either the genuine Ford service manual or the Haynes book or by searching the net. Does Blatchat have the answer? Thanks in advance, Brian.
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BM sent. Brian.
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Hi Paul, Is the thin steel sandwich plate that fits between the engine block and bellhousing damaged ? I believe that it is this plate that is intended to keep the motor in the correct position. Cheers, Brian.
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Clive, the rear springs sag with age..you will possibly find that the rear beam is contacting the exhaust clamp that holds the rear box on ..mine does 😬
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PM sent. Brian
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Hi Fred, when you say that the wiper motor functions as before after you have connected up the box are you operating the original dashboard switch at the time? I believe the idea behind the unit is that it is operated independently of the original switch to provide intermittent wipe, but is overidden by selection of continuous wipe using the dash switch ie the unit will only work when the dash switch is in the off position, as page 9 of your instructions states"the dashboard switch has priority over the interval circuitary".Wiring diag. looks OK to me , but I wouldn't claim to be an electronics expert! Cheers, Brian.
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I would be interested to know if you manage to sort this. The fuel gauge on my 1990 car has reacted to the slightest movement of the tank's contents from new yet the oil pressure gauge,which you would expect to react instantly, moves with the speed of a comatose snail Brian.
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Roger, as the owner/builder of a 90 spec dedion car I would be interested to know what CC are saying. Do they deny that these parts are factory supplied or do they no longer stock or wish to supply replacement parts? According to my build manual and the 60 odd page computer 'product breakdown report' that came with my kit, the rear disc bolts are part number 79085 and are 3/8" UNF x5/8" crown head bolts. Looking on the online stores for this part finds 79085FIA, the lower retaining bolt for the FIA bar. I happen to have a pair of these and can report that the under head measurement is 7/8". Cheers, Brian.
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Time to move on one of the runabouts...2000 W reg Corsa B 1.0i 12v GLS 44,500 miles.Red..shiny red,not the usual flat red 😬 😬Spec includes sunroof,electric windows,electric & heated mirrors,central locking and height adjustable drivers seat. Family owned for 8 years,run as my everyday car for the last 5. MOT to June 2011, no advisories.Over the last couple of years it has had F&R shocks,F&R springs,discs & pads and both handbrake cables.Two new tyres were fitted before this years test, and I have recently replaced all filters(air,pollen&fuel).£1375 o.n.o. We are located in Chesterfield , close to M1 JN29. Mobile number 07950925777 Brian. Edited to add:- Photo's available by e-mail. Edited by - ncm on 5 Nov 2010 15:03:56 Edited by - ncm on 5 Nov 2010 15:06:16
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BM sent. Brian.
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Hi Steve, I have a car that you may be interested in, but live in Chesterfield..just off Jn29 of the M1. Is this too far away?? Brian.
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If you have no power to the fuse box then check that you have both of the heavy brown wires connected to the alternator as power is fed from the battery(or cut off switch)to the alternator through one wire and then onto the fuse box through the other. Cheers, Brian.
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Might be worth having a chat with James Whiting. According to his ad in January 2004 Low Flying he was able to supply an Ital disc brake conversion for £800 +vat. Brian.
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pm. sent re tacho's. Brian
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Can't see why you would need to turn down the disc as this is factory fitment for the GT6/Vitesse.I omitted to mention that you also need the correct caliper mounting bracket as the bolt spacing is different between the type 14 caliper and the Triumph fitment type 16.Are you using the Ford fitment caliper that bolts up to the original mount? Brian.
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According to the Weale book, the S4 front stub axle has the part number 132448, a triumph part, which is listed as available here http://www.canleyclassics.com/catalog.asp?category=200208041028013385868557. I would guess that the easiest upgrade for your front brakes will be to fit the larger diameter discs and PB16 calipers from the GT6/Vitesse. Brian.
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Looking at the website it would appear that they already have Y9,Y16 & B636/2 already in production.For my early de-dion chassis that would just leave the small diameter E2030 bush to produce. Due to the design variations over the years might it be easier to list the bushes individually rather than'de-dion front' etc? Brian.
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Hi Andy, I have experienced the problem described by ECR. In my case one of the connectors came adrift whilst the engine was on full song....tacho died completely , closely followed by the engine. Unfortunately it was the battery connection that came off and subsequent investigation revealed that the tacho, fuel pump ,alternator and several other less important items had fried One other possibility, that happened on a track day, is a plug electrode burning off. Engine started perfectly even when cold and ran fine at low revs but attempting to boot it brought back the missfire. That one was eventually traced to a brand new distributor having too much advance...after it had destroyed the freshly rebuilt bottom end ☹️ Brian.
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Hi, our S1 Elise has a 'lower steady arm' that bolts to the sump to the rear of the engine(intake side). Brian.
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Never did care for the 'leave the bolt loose' routine,or the eye pivoting on the thread . On my 1990 De-dion car I used a longer bolt.... fitting the bolt through the cable eye first,then a nut then the pedal and finally a second nut to secure the bolt firmly, thus the eye pivots on the smooth shank of the bolt.... 😬 Brian.
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Barry, my 1990 De-dion chassied car was originally fitted with a pressure switch in the brake lines,the mechanically operated switch came later. You can still check the wiring by connecting the two spades together though!The switch can be found screwed into a multi-way union attached to the upper engine bay diagonal member at the side of the pedal box. Brian.
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Paul,if 1 to 2 white knuckles equates to 45-60Nm then you'll be spot on to the Ford manual 😬 😬 Brian.