Violet Elizabeth Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Define "knackered" CWP ? Probably oil starvation caused by a long bend. Overfill, or fit some oil seals. Half shaft/Bearing ? Could be the hammer action of the half shaft, as it "floats". Easy (ish) job to get it shimmed. No more hammer. There is no reason IMHO to change from an Ital to an English with 140bhp, when there are lots of cheaper, and well proven, things you can try first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 'English' was the identification reference given, by Ford, to the Escort axle. It is a lot stronger than the Ital and, personally, I wouldn't bother faffing around with the Ital when the English axle is, relatively speaking, a fit and forget option. Ok, you need to spend a couple of hours (if that) modifying the rear of the tunnel, but if you get Arch to do the axle mods, so that it fits perfectly, the whole thing can be swapped out in half a day. Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Edited by - Brent Chiswick on 2 Nov 2005 09:46:22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul White Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Thanks Brent, I'll give Bruce a ring this morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul White Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Noger, My definition of knackered is 'whinin' like a good'n'; I haven't looked at the internals yet. The same track day helped in the knackering of the camshaft (definition of knackered here is 'snapped in two') Therefore have just made some further cam/head/carb mods which should see 155 bhp when done so am just being cautious really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Fair enough, was just trying to give a few options. I broke a CWP with a standard supersprint due to oil starvation on a trackday. Never had any further problems once it was overfilled. As Brent says, an English axle is fit and forget, you won't have any issues again. But it is heavier, and with 155bhp you probably don't need it. Sure Roger King would not have sold quite so many RK155 Crossflow engines if every one blew up the diff FWIW I am going to be putting 175bhp though an Ital, with just an LSD, shims, and some oil seal trickery. But then I am a bit odd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Noger, et al Do you know where one could take their 7 for some oil seal trickery? I've got 165bhp and am debating uprating my live, I know Andy Mac will shim, but not sure he will fit seals? Its not the days in your life ..........But the LIFE in your days!! ;0)) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I.Mupferit Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 Ah but not all the RK 155 engines were installed in live axle cars. To be honest, I changed mine because I installed a 209 bhp Zetec and felt I would be pushing my luck just that little bit too far if I didn't. If you are looking to possibly upgrade still further with, maybe, an engine transplant then an axle change will give you peace of mind now and in the future IMO. Talk to Steve Perks of SP Components in Redditch, he built my axle and fitted a disc brake conversion having had the casing modded by Arch. The tunnel mod involves removing about 1" of aluminium from the bulkhead on the drivers side, resiting the steel strengthening hoop to outside the chassis rail then reshaping the aluminium flare and re-rivetting the whole thing. It is a lot easier than it sounds and is pretty self explanatory once you start. For a bit extra clearance within the tunnel, rivet the reshaped flare from inside the tunnel on the drivers side vertical plane. It's a bit fiddly but can be done after a bit of sweating and swearing. 😬 Forgot to say, bear in mind that the new axle would have a different wheel stud pcd (4.25" instead of 3.75") so you either have to accept that you will have odd wheels back and front or change the whole lot including front hubs. Alternatively I have heard of people getting the drive shaft flange redrilled to 3.75" pcd but I'm not sure what is involved in that. Brent 2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive R 417.39 😬 Edited by - Brent Chiswick on 2 Nov 2005 13:08:35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary-Cornwall Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 I've got the Ford axle in mine having upgraded the motor from Vx 8v to the 2l XE and am looking for a solution to the weakest link 'A' Frame Bush issues. Simon mentions "Very neat and simple pan hard rod set up and should work as good or possibly better than the std A frame us mortals are used to!". Can anyone expand on this please? thanks Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrino Posted November 2, 2005 Share Posted November 2, 2005 I don't know of anyone who installs oil seals into the diff arms as a service - some info and piccies on my website HERE. I pinched the idea from Robster. Bite me 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul White Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 Brent - good point about the wheel stud PCDs that one slipped by me; too much grief I feel. Noger - would be interested in your 'oil seal trickery' as I also want to go down LSD route once the Bulk Buy is sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 Chris at the Seven Workshop is doing mine. Based on the Robster / Ferrino method in the link above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 I'd looked at Ferrino's link some time ago but theres NO WAY I could undertake such a task. Will speak to Chris in due course. Cheers Noger Its not the days in your life ..........But the LIFE in your days!! ;0)) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul White Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 Likewise - pay a man who can! Multi-coloured Beaulieu 1.8, see wraps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 It can't be that hard to get someone to do it. If the diff is out anyway, then anyone doing shims or other work could do it. McMillan, Road and Race, SPC ... Alternative is to extend the breather up to the rollbar, and overfill. Much the same effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happylarry Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 I've got the Ford axle in mine having upgraded the motor from Vx 8v to the 2l XE and am looking for a solution to the weakest link 'A' Frame Bush issues. Little known fact: Caterham do a rose jointed 'A' frame - fit and forget - no more hassle. James Whiting sorted it out for me. If you want to do it yourself, ring Caterham spares I guess. Zetec: Proud and Raw-T !! C7 LDA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violet Elizabeth Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 Just transmits the load elsewhere, and can cause problems. ISTR someone ripping the whole joint out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4ster Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 I was hoping that someone more technical would answer Gary’s question:- [qoute]Simon mentions "Very neat and simple pan hard rod set up and should work as good or possibly better than the std A frame us mortals are used to!". Can anyone expand on this please?. Well they haven’t, and it was my suspension that Simon was referring to, so here goes! A Panhard rod is a component of a suspension sytem that provides lateral location of the axle. Originally invented by the Panhard et Levassor Automobile Company, it consists of a rigid bar that connects one end of the axle to the car body or chassis on the opposite side of the vehicle. The bar is jointed to move in the vertical plane only. It is usually used in conjunction with trailing arms which locate the axle in the longitudinal direction. (Straight from the net!) The axle seems to be well enough located in my car and the upper and lower longditudinal links apparently resist any twisting forces. However, it looks as though it would be pretty difficult to retro fit this setup to me, as the brackets for the links have to be welded onto the chassis on either side near the cockpit. I hope this helps and pics are here if interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blade_runner Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Theres a ford alxe for sale on e bay... see here 'Pinky Pics' here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon redshaw Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Going back to the rose jointed A frame, I have the same and it is superb. Like the English, you fit it and forget it! Note: I actually have polybush version to fit the older style a-frame plus a whole load of rubber/metal ones. Does anyone want them. The lot for a £5'er? Note: SPC made my axle and I cannot recommend Steve more. he also made a semi helical box for me and it is sublime. Simon7R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robster Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 With regard to the oil seals, I am absoloutly convinced that this is the way forward with this diff. I wrote 2 CWPs off on track days (horrendous shrieking noise after a hard corner) caused by oil surge. Since fitting them, no probs at all. I live in Newbury and am more than happy to helf with anyones axle if they want to do the same. I would get the seal housing made up by a local engineering place and weld them in for cost and NTL donation if it helps anyone (mine cost £30 for the housings, £5 for the seals). Robin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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