phatcat Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 (Academy car, new build). Ok, I finally got the plumbing and electrics sorted, disconnected the inertia switch, and went to turn over the car, and here's what happened: 1. Whistling noise from ECU. 2. Odometer registers 0.2 miles. If I disconnect one of the ECU leads, the whistling stops. If I then go to turn the ignition on again the odometer registers another 0.2 miles. I'm now up to 0.8 miles! Any ideas? Are there any electrical connections I've missed that the guide doesn't tell you about? Note that I have a red button on my dash - I assume this is the starter button I ordered, but not sure, and also not sure if this changes the start up procedure or whether additional connections are required. Stuck, but putting lots of miles on ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatcat Posted January 9, 2005 Author Share Posted January 9, 2005 Update: 1. Actually it's only 0.1 miles per attempt. 2. The ECU stays whistling even after I turn the ignition back to 0. 3. It's definitely the starter button - as it the starter motor kicks in when I press it. When I did 3, I only did it briefly, as I am not sure what this will do. Am I basically supposed to hit the red button for 30 secs while it makes nasty noises? I have no oil pressure as yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 The odometer will add to your mileage each time the ignition is switched on. TADTS unfortunately. Not sure about the whistling ECU. Can you makeout what tune it is 😬. Have you tried pressing the red (yes it is the starter) button with ignition on? Some folks say to remove the plugs before cranking for oil pressure. Myself I've never bothered. Just disconnect the inertia switch and crank. IMHO it takes a couple of 20 - 25 second goes to start to see pressure register on the gauge. Make sure you've got a battery charger or slave battery and jump leads handy. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatcat Posted January 9, 2005 Author Share Posted January 9, 2005 Ok, well it's cranking over ok now, but there's still no oil pressure registering. I have cranked it for 6, 30 second bursts, but nothing. The ECU is still whistling at me, and my battery is getting flat. ☹️ The oil pressure gauge is connected at the back, though I've no idea if the oil pressure sender is connected, because I don't know where that is. Any ideas on : a) Where I can look to see if the oil pressure sender is wired up? b) What else might be causing no oil pressure to register? (would a minor oil leak do this?) c) Why the ECU is still emitting a high pitch whistle (with or without the ignition on). Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 In my experience, it takes ages for oil pressure to show on a 'dry' engine-I've burned out a big red starter button doing this in the past. I would first remove the oil filter and make sure it's prefilled, then get the jump leads onto your tintop and keep cranking until you see something. Obviously check your oil pressure sender is connected-don't know where these are on a K, but it should be easy to spot. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 The oil pressure sender is here - well it is a picture of mine after I bashed it! Make sure yours is connected. The whistling noise is normal (mine is very quiet and cuts out several minutes after the engine is stopped). Roadsport build photo's here Le Mans 2004 photo's here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 They all whistle until about a minute after ignition off. I think the ECU stays alive that long. The oil pressure takes an age. It doesn't matter that much - you're going to spend most of the time > 5K revs thrashing the arse of it. Just try and start it - I had exactly the same conversation with Mike in the Academy last Sunday..... Charles --- My Roadsports B 2005 diary My Caterham Academy 2004 build and race diary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatcat Posted January 9, 2005 Author Share Posted January 9, 2005 Update: Oil pressure sender - disconnected, added a little WD40 and reconnected and it started reading 4 bar! So: I connected up the inertia switch. Pressed the inertia switch button. Connected up the battery to my other car to get some more juice. Turned the ignition. Pressed the starter button... Engine fires up... ... then 3-5 secs later it stops. I've tried about 10 times, and added a little throttle the last 2 times, but to no avail - it always stops. Any ideas? I think the neighbours might be getting a little upset by the noise now 😳 Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 This is the immobiliser - I had the same problem! Think you have to arm 4 times then disarm it WILL be OK - maybe worth doing a search in case I have remembered the sequence wrongly. Don't worry about the noise 😬 They'll have to get used to it sometime Roadsport build photo's here Le Mans 2004 photo's here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mav Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 You may need to reset the immobilser and then dis-arm. Assuming you have a battery master switch, then turn it to the off position,. with the engine not running, and the ign key turned off. Turn the BMS to the on position, and then press the buttons on the immobiliser fob in the following order disarm/arm/disarm, arm, then wait for the led to flash constantly (about once per second). Press the disarm button, and then turn on the ign and start the car. Every time you turn the bms off you will need to repeat this sequence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Link to when I had the same problem here about 2/3 of the way down. Roadsport build photo's here Le Mans 2004 photo's here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatcat Posted January 9, 2005 Author Share Posted January 9, 2005 Still no joy. Tried these combos: Arm 4 times wait for rapid flash to finish and disarm. Arm 4 times, don't wait for rapid flash to finish and disarm. Arm 3 times (because mine rapid flashes on the third press) and disarm. Turn off BMS, turn on BMS, disarm/arm/disarm/arm, wait for flash and disarm. I attempted to start it after each of these combos, but the engine always ran for a few secs then cut off. Any other ideas? I've packed in now for the day anyway, so the best idea is probably to get a shower and get to the offy before it shuts - need to fill my jerry can with beer or I won't start tomorrow either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Almost certain it will be immobiliser related, just need to get the right sequence to set it. Once you have done this you will be on to making sure the cooling system works - often another minor challenge! Keep going, you are doing well and will overcome the niggles Roadsport build photo's here Le Mans 2004 photo's here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 From memory, when in 'reset' mode the immobiliser light is on soild. You need to press the disarm (I think) button a number of times until the beep and the light goes off. If the light is off, then the immobiliser should be off. I'm fairly sure that if the fuel pump primes when you go from ignition off to position 2, the immobiliser is off. The main reason I can't remember is that this happens all the time at the events (the scruitineer generaly checks the BMS) and I just end up pressing the button on the immobiliser loads ot times until I can turn it off! Charles --- My Roadsports B 2005 diary My Caterham Academy 2004 build and race diary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 phatcat, I know there seems to be a number of opinions of resetting the immobiliser so here's my 2p. Press the arm/disarm alternately 5 times. No need to leave more than about a second between presses. Has always worked for me in the past. If it still won't run then it could be that there is something else not quite right. This includes the possibility that its not something you've done. Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you switch the ignition on? I'm assuming that is a yes for it to run for the 2 or 4 seconds. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted January 9, 2005 Share Posted January 9, 2005 Regarding the resetting of the immobiliser, it doesn't matter whether you press the arm or disarm button actually. But press the same button and on (usually) the 4th press you will hear the immobiliser relay click a few times. The immobiliser is now reset. Press disarm and you should be A-OK and ready to go. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatcat Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 Just spoke to Caterham Tech, and they say that as long as the red light is not on, then the immobiliser is disarmed and the car should run. I also think that I must have tried at least 20 combos of turning the immobiliser off and on! The fuel pump sounds ok, so I guess I'll just to get them to fix it at the PBC. ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatcat Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 Just spoke to Caterham Tech, and they say that as long as the red light is not on, then the immobiliser is disarmed and the car should run. I also think that I must have tried at least 20 combos of turning the immobiliser off and on! The fuel pump sounds ok, so I guess I'll just to get them to fix it at the PBC. ☹️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatcat Posted January 10, 2005 Author Share Posted January 10, 2005 oops, sorry for double post 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Drawmer Posted January 10, 2005 Share Posted January 10, 2005 I'm not sure, but if your 'plipper' is making the immobiliser light go out, and the car is only running for about 10secs before stopping.... Then I would guess that the immobiliser and the ECU are not 'aligned'. This can be corrected by anyone with a Rover diagnostic tool. Caterham Cars - or a Rover dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kny Posted January 11, 2005 Share Posted January 11, 2005 Any progress? There was another thread here which offers some other suggestions. Kenny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 "Just spoke to Caterham Tech, and they say that as long as the red light is not on, then the immobiliser is disarmed and the car should run." - sorry to be a pedant, but this is just crap - the red light will be off if there's no battery in the car! - stupid point I know, but it serves to prove that this is a very simplistic answer and the truth is a lot more complicated. I have an academy car with a Master cutout switch and a starter button. I never leave the cutout key in the car, so I have to go through this procedure every time I start the car... 1. Check that ignition is OFF and gearstick in neutral! 2. Put in FIA key and turn 3. Press the "lock" button on the plipper 4 times with a pause between each press - each time you press it you should hear a "click" from the immobiliser (on the bulkhead above the steering column). After pressing 4 times and having the immobiliser click its acknowledgement 4 times, the relay will click a few more times by itself and the red light will be flashing. 4. Press unlock once and the red light should stop flashing 5. Turn ignition to ON (listen for IACV to burble about, and fuel pump to whine) 6. Press big red button NB, if when you turn the ignition on the light goes constant red, then you haven't unlocked the immobiliser. Good luck. PS where are you, if anywhere near Edinburgh, I'd be happy to help... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manxseven Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 Charlie do you have to do all that even if you stall the Car (as these days, you usually have to turn the key to the off position then back on to get it started) What a palaver L7 BDA Supersprint Joy here 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_pank Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 no, only have to do that if you've removed the FIA key - you don't even turn the ignition to "off" if you stall - that's why the big red starter button is good for the track "if" you spin and stall all you have to do is press the button and off you go again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alias Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 Rob Walker had a similar problem with his odometer creep. In the end he sent the Odometer back as it registered about 12 miles before his car left the garage. I believe this should be covered by warranty. ----------------------------------------------------------------- 1400 Supersport with 6 gears and clamshell wings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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