Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

K series camshaft locking tools


Julian Thompson

Recommended Posts

My understanding is that the crank will need to be turned back and forth, as will the camshafts - so I wonder when you'll need the locking tool 😬

 

BRG Summertime Brooklands SV 😬 It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Weeeell, you're not really supposed to use the locking tool to hold the tension on the cam pulleys as you heft the bolts off. Official Rover method is to use a long tool with two prongs that slip between the spokes of the cam wheel. I made one up with bolts & some strips of steel. The locking tool is only supposed to be used to keep the cam pulley marks lined up when you fit the timing belt when working with the original non adjustable pulleys.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That sounds right Luke.

 

I consider it bad engineering practice to use either the locking tool or, worse still, not using the locking tool and holding the crankshaft bolt stationary with a wrench and relying on the cam belt to hold the camshaft sprockets still to undo the bolts. I think this might overstress the cam belt, possibly leading to premature failure *eek*

 

Maybe this thread needs transferring to Tech Talk.

 

I also second Batterd's view that changing to vernier cam sprockets should only be undertaken if you are confident and comfortable that you know what you're doing - serious engine damage could result if you get it wrong *eek*

 

BRG Summertime Brooklands SV 😬 It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hope to be organising a couple of 'Master Classes' wrt fitting the verniers. This will agaion be in assoc. with Dave Andrews.

 

I also hope to be able to produce an article for Low Flying as a step by step guide, or perhaps even a dvd of the same - for a small contribution to NTL.

 

Reagrds,

 

Martin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Leadership Team

There is possibly some confusion that needs clearing up:

 

1. Tool we're discussing from Draper is the equivalent to Rover tool no. 18G1570, described as a Camshaft locking tool. This is for insertion between the timing pulleys to ensure no movement of the pulleys occurs during changing of the timing belt. It is NOT for locking the pulleys in order to remove the retaining bolts. The cams can rotate if the tool is not used due to the valve spring pressure on the cam lobes causing the cams to "notch" round.

 

2. The tool used for removing the retaining bolts is Rover tool no. 12-182, described as the "Camshaft holding tool". This is a long forked tool that enables the timing pulley to be held in position whilst the retaining bolt is removed, or re-torqued during refitting. In practice I have found that it is possible as an alternative to use an 8mm socket on an extension, passed through one of the pulley holes and located on a bolt head behind, thereby locking the pulley in either direction. IIRC the bolts need to be tightened to 80Nm therefore in no way should the locking tool or the cam belt (or a piston *eek*) be used as an alternative.

 

Stu.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Leadership Team

I think so Andy, but I'd need to look again to check 😬 Yep, 65Nm are the ones I have!

 

I use a small 1/4" socket set with an extension piece that's around 3" long - works a treat *thumbup*

 

Stu.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another suggestion has come in.

 

There are two flats on each of the cams (the cams themselves) that can be held with a large adjustable spanner. If this is held correctly, with the spanner across the flats of the cams, the pulley bolts can be torqued up to the required level.

 

Comments ...

 

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Leadership Team

My preference is to always have the item locked against something solid when you need to apply a known torque - especially a high one *thumbup*, but that's only my opinion.

 

Like wise with the crank pulley bolt - I'd rather not mess with it unless the engine is out and the cranks locked in position.

 

Stu.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...