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Which Alternator?


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My alternator is to say the least completely knackered. See here


I'm up for suggestions as to what make of alternator will provide reliable performance at a reasonable cost - ideally a small diameter (100mm ish??) and it needs aroud 50A output. A slightly higher output voltage than the std 13.8v would also be desirable.


Needles to say the failure in the pic also took out the alternator belt and dry sump pum and scavenge.....




Fat Arn

Visit the K2 RUM website

See the Lotus Seven Club 4 Counties Area Website here


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Arnie, SBD supply a little dinky Japenese Alternator, output of 55AMPS 14.4 volts, it has one large mounting bracket as opposed to 2 small feet. I have just fitted one and it now gives more space to work around the engine, and saves weight too! *cool*


On The Starting Blocks!

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Arnie, sorry to learn of your alternator's dramatic failure - lucky the engine is OK.


Since your not that far away, suggest you pop over to CCM Electrical, on the Ditchling Industrial estate. They remake everythink auto lectrical but more to the point have bags of commom sence and all sorts of alternatives there for you to eye-ball.


... and they are cheap!



Deliveries by Saffron, *thumbup* the yellow 222bhp Sausage delivery machine

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Arnie I recently fitted a small lightweight alternator from Brise in Dartford.

Found their service excellent. As well as the alternator they made up a complete new mounting bracket whioch was much lighter and stronger than the original Rover one.

When money allows I intend to try one of their starter motors as well.



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I've been through this process.


The brise ones are apparently modified Nippon Denso (expensive, small jap ones) jobbies.


The Alternator in the Susuki Carry, Swift and Bedford Van are all nippon denso's. They are expensive new, but if you can find a scrappy one then great. If you find another source let me know!


Also the alternator spindle is 17mm apparently, whilst others are usually 15mm, so you'd need another pulley.


In the end funds dictated that I get some cheapy new /recon ones, as I seem to go through one every 6 months.


I would like some light ones tho.


Greg, Q 86 NTM (Green 185BHP XF)

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How many wires should go to the alternator, just changing mine and have a spare (4th) wire.

2 large brown wires 1 small brown yellow (to warning light?) and a brown black wire with no connector on

it and nothing to connect to, hanging loose. should that be on the same small terminal as the br/yell


SLR for sale *cool*



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Blatman has got one but it's mounted on the inlet side.

I do, and it is.........good memory.......

Got one on the exhaust side of the Cossie too......

Daihatsu Charade 1.0l it is. Bedford Rascal version I believe has more eletrical connections (4, IIRC), compared to the Daihatsu's 3. Searching the web for a few minutes should reveal a plethora of fitting instructions on all sorts of se7enalikes......

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Having run the 50A Brise (Daihatsu/Rascal) alternator for a couple of years, I can confirm it as the single component that has made my car least usable on the road. It doesn't really charge at idle, especially when you have the lights on and even more so when the cooling fan switches on.


The net result is that you wreck batteries if you drive through the city centre at night. It is particularly bad with an engine with a big rev range as its design limit is only 12,000 rpm. If you gear a 9000rpm engine to drive it at 12,000 rpm then it is only turning at 1500rpm when the engine is idling. It needs 3,000 alternator rpm before it does anything useful.


Brise also do a high output version although I suspect this doesn't cure all the problems. When Miraz investigated this Brise recommended a Mitsubishi alternator which has a very good rev range and is still reasonably light.

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When we were worried about the difference in speeds of the water pump from tick over to 9000rpm we decided it was prudent to change to an electrically driven pump. Would an electrically driven alternator solve today's problem?
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