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6 speed suddenly strange


Julian H

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Hi

My 6 speed has always been sweet as a nut (usual difficult into 2nd when cold but otherwise okay).

Today it was horrible, sudden change, difficult/impossible to get into 1st, 2nd and 3rd at times… balking, crashing refusing to go in gear,, 4th and higher okay but not as slick as has been. Now I am  worried, less than 2 weeks before a big trip. Any ideas what the problem might be? The only thing I have done that I can imagine might have affected the gear change is a new near side engine mount?

Appreciate some wise experiences…

Thanks,

Julian

 

 

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  • Leadership Team

Easy checks first … check the cable at the pedal box end (pedal box cover removed), the alignment isn’t great and they can easily fray, stretch, then let go completely ….

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4 hours ago, Gridgway said:

I think my clutch actuating arm bent or broke many years ago.  K-series 6 speed.

Was that on a dry-sump car (with the "modified" arm)?  IME the standard Ford arm is bomb-proof.

JV

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9 hours ago, SLR No.77 said:

Easy checks first … check the cable at the pedal box end (pedal box cover removed), the alignment isn’t great and they can easily fray, stretch, then let go completely ….

Agree with that.  This is what the Assembly Guide says about cable set-up:

Fittingclutchcableatpedalbox.jpg.89a9fd13418c810d923e29e60fbc0926.jpg

JV

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Hi

i checked my clutch cable, looked a bit worn so replaced it. Still no good, almost impossible to get a gear.

Another observation, running the engine trying to get into gear there is a noisy chatter when clutch is depressed.

Thx

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Hi Julian, if it is a wet sump and the bearing is sounding noisy it would be wise to also thoroughly check the clutch assembly. Also make sure the spigot bearing is ok as well. It would be unlikely that the operating arm as it is the standard robust Ford item. If it had the dry sump bell housing the first suspect would be the Caterham manufactured operating arm as they frequently fracture and bend hence the reason behind the PGM manufactured uprated arm.

Best wishes PGM

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I have ordered all the parts except for a clutch fork pivot pin. I wonder is it likely to have been broken, should I get one of those in case and where can I get one (very) quickly to have it just in case please?

Thanks

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If not already mentioned it is possible to change the CRB without full engine removal, it involves sliding the engine forward just enough to change the CRB. If I remember there is a guide here on the site.  
 

Although if not conclusive it’s the CRB worth checking clutch and other components via full engine removal.

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  • Leadership Team

The fulcrum pin is part of the bellhousing/belltank and unrelated to which gearbox is fitted.

Stu.

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