Unnatural weighting to steering

[samsul]

Hi,

My 2002 SV has never steered as well as I would like but in the last month the steering has started to feel stiff and notchy. I have noticed the car wanders a little within the lane too, which is unnerving. The combined effect is that I have had to slow down dramatically so I know something's not right.

However, I can't find the issue.

I have stripped the top of the column in the dash. No issues. Steering wheel spins freely when disconnected from lower column. 

I have jacked the front end up and moved the wheels lock to lock. Identified a squeaking sound and saw that the lower column was fouling a little on the rubber grommets on the pedal box. I couldn't adjust the angle so assumed the rubbers were dry and gave a bit of silicone grease. Sound gone.

No knocking or banging noises. No hard impacts when driving to speak of.

Is this likely to be the slow death of my steering rack? What are the symptoms of a steering rack on the way out?

Thanks,

Sam

[Jonathan Kay]

I'd start by resetting the column. Would you like a copy of the Assembly Guide?

And reading the accumulated wisdom in the archives on servicing the rack.

Jonathan

[SM25T]

Check the track rod ends. They can develop extreme play or seize up. Easy to swap. Don't even need to raise the car off the ground. Once you cut the cable ties on the gaiter and crack the lock nut you can unscrew the tie rod from the track rod end. Count the turns or mark thread with paint. There are two spanner flats on the tie rod.

Remove driver side gaiter on steering rack and apply grease to rack teeth and wind from lock to lock to disperse it.

[samsul]

Hi Jonathan,

Thanks for your response. Sorry but what do you mean by resetting the column? Unbolting at the UJ, removing, and re-threading through the pedal box?

[SLR No.77]

Most likely it's the lower wishbone spherical bearings that have become tight. Give both sides a small squirt of oil (being careful of contamination on the brake discs) and leave to soak. You can replace the spherical bearings but a small drop of oil applied periodically might be all that needs doing.

Much quicker to try this solution before messing with anything else ....

Stu.

[paul richards]

What Stu says. 

[Jonathan Kay]

"Sorry but what do you mean by resetting the column? Unbolting at the UJ, removing, and re-threading through the pedal box?"

I was concerned about the fouling at the pedal box and thought that it might be a good idea to slacken everything off in order to see why it's happening.

But it looks as if you have a more cost-effective initial step suggested upthread.

Jonathan

[SM25T]

Your reported wandering could also be related to top wishbone rod ends. You need to lift the front of the car and wiggle the wheels top and bottom to look for play at all joints.

[Wrightpayne]

What SM25T says - check over all the suspension joints for wear.

Regarding lubricating the lower sperical joint make sure you wipe off any excess once the lube has worked into the joint. You dont want road dust / grit getting stuck in it and wearing the joint prematurely.

[DanRo]

Apologies for the thread creep but on the subject of spherical bearings, is lubricating them useful preventative maintenance and if so, is there an ideal lubricant to use. 

[SM25T]

Oil, not grease. Remove excess.

[samsul]

This has been extremely helpful - I took the car the 3 miles to work after lubricating the spherical joints. Night and day difference at slow speeds. Am yet to test above 30 mph. Will give all of the joints and bearings a proper look over tonight, take for a higher speed test, and report back.

If solved with a bit of oil I owe quite a few of you a pint! Jonathan, SLR, SM25T...Let me know when you're next in South Wales and we're heading to the pub! 

[Wrightpayne]

I'll be there in October and can collect on their behalf :-) (Saundersfoot)

[samsul]

Drinks are on me!

Just took it down exactly the same NSL roads as yesterday. Steered impeccably.

With hindsight, the wandering was probably the steering failing to fully self-centre and the car tracking on the same line until I heaved the wheel back to centre. None of that today.

Again, thank you all. And, seriously, send me a message if you're in the area and the drinks are on me.

Thanks,

Sam

[SLR No.77]

From new the spherical bearings will last quite some time without need for lubrication, but they're not sealed and eventually they start to run tight, whether it be that they're becoming dry or there's some corrosion.

From that point they need an occasional lubrication and initially it might seem you're doing it quite frequently, but as the oil gets in fully they'll only need a new drop of oil a couple of times a year then once again when you tuck it up for winter as a precaution. 

Periodic lubrication and they'll last for years without needing replacement.

Stu.

 

 

[Mechanical Moz]

The spherical bearings are PTFE fabric lined and are self lubricating.  Some manufacturers advise against lubricating these type of bearings as it can shorten the life.  Although in this application they should probably be sealed given the bombardment of water and dirt they get.  I guess the improvement seen with adding oil is to do with contaminants clogging it up.

https://product.minebeamitsumi.com/en/technology/bearing/rodend_sphericalbearings_cat-2_003.html The ABWT10 has the standard X-1118 glass fibre liner as far as I can tell and isn't offered with the X-1276 polyester lining "suitable for racing cars".

https://www.skf.com/uk/products/plain-bearings/spherical-plain-bearings-rod-ends/principles/lubrication/maintenance-free-bearings

 

[John Vine]

#16  The spherical bearings are PTFE fabric lined and are self lubricating.  Some manufacturers advise against lubricating these type of bearings as it can shorten the life.

Quaife say the same for their Quickshift gear-levers.

JV

[Wrightpayne]

So do we think a PTFE dry lube would be better or worse than a mineral oil considering the bearing itself is PTFE lined?

 

[SamC]

#16 ABWTE10 is the racing equivalent with the upgraded liner.

Main reason not to lubricate is that dust and dirt sticks to the exposed lubricant and generates more wear. I'd argue that it probably doesn't make much difference in this application as they'll be filthy in five minutes on our cars regardless of additional lubrication.

You'll extend the life of the bearings for a bit by popping some oil in, but if it were me I'd be replacing it this winter. It's an easy and cheap job.

[Nigel Riches]

On a different tack here, I have a L A car with Rose joint diff mounting, There is a quite deep recess in the A frame eye to position the Rose joint, which is held i place by circlips , so to protect the bearing I cut two discs of rubber sheet to form a barrier and stop ingress of contamination, these have worked well over the years. Is it possible to fabricate such things for the bearings on the joints in question here?

Nigel.  

[SLR No.77]

I've wondered the same Nigel. The spherical bearing sits in a small recess so as well as being exposed with no cover it will also hold some amount of water which might cause corrosion.

I started lubricating mine after my car exhibited the same behaviour as in post #1 and it's solved the problem, that was a few years ago and it's done 1000s of miles since with no issue, everything still tight as it should be. I hadn't realised at the time that other owners were doing the same.

I have new bearings and when I do eventually replace them (time is currently out of stock) maybe there's a way to assess the old bearing and work out exactly what has happened to cause the stiffness. My expectation would be the bearing becoming loose over time rather than tight, which is why the assumption is corrosion rather than wear within the bearing, I'm just a layman on this sort of stuff though.

Stu.