samsul

That would be really helpful - thank you

Thanks, I haven't found an obvious exhaust leak but the car is "fumey" so will keep looking. Is there a specific way to test for gasket leaks on the primaries? Is there a MAF/MAP sensor and can I simply test it with a multimeter?

In January I took delivery of an SV with the VHPD engine in it. My dream Seven. In the four months since I have been unable to use the car properly. The car appears to be running too rich. Even at minuscule throttle openings, as soon as I back off, I get cannon fire out of the exhaust. Initially, I thought this was because the car wasn't running to temperature and therefore wasn't getting off it's cold map. I have now ruled this out as a possible cause, as the car behaves in the same manner even when running at temp. In trying to sort this issue, I have: - Replaced the rad - Refurbished and replaced the heater matrix - Checked and confirmed that the thermostat works (74C) - Flushed and replaced the coolant - Fitted a new lambda sensor recommended by Caterham - Fitted new coolant temp sensors (ECU and gauge) - Replaced a small piece of the vacuum line, which had a leak I tried to run a spare Emerald but this is corrupted so nice dice. I therefore have to run the standard VHPD ECU for now. As you can imagine it has been a frustrating start to new car ownership but I love it and want to get it sorted. So what am I missing? Where should I look next? Any help appreciated. Thanks, Sam

Hello, Which lambda sensor is suitable for VHPD? Having trouble with mine and want to cross-reference the model currently on the car with what others are running. I believe this is what should be on the car: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/genuine-bosch-lambda-sensor-mhk10006-pre-2000-k-series-engines Thanks, Sam

Sorry for thread resurrection! The play is only on the passenger side track rod. I removed the gaiter on that side and confirmed the play is definitely in the track rod / rack interface, so assume it's the ball joint/bearing. I am not too sure where to go from here. Will do some ringing round tomorrow! Thanks for all the help, Sam

Are you sure the play isn't at the inner trackrod ball joint(s)- where the track rod enters the rack? Every time one of my racks has developed play it has been cured by tightening these ball joints (well, actually my dad does it for me because I'm scared ) Hi, I have the same issue. Could you explain exactly what needs to be tightened on the rack please? Thanks, Sam

Drinks are on me! Just took it down exactly the same NSL roads as yesterday. Steered impeccably. With hindsight, the wandering was probably the steering failing to fully self-centre and the car tracking on the same line until I heaved the wheel back to centre. None of that today. Again, thank you all. And, seriously, send me a message if you're in the area and the drinks are on me. Thanks, Sam

This has been extremely helpful - I took the car the 3 miles to work after lubricating the spherical joints. Night and day difference at slow speeds. Am yet to test above 30 mph. Will give all of the joints and bearings a proper look over tonight, take for a higher speed test, and report back. If solved with a bit of oil I owe quite a few of you a pint! Jonathan, SLR, SM25T...Let me know when you're next in South Wales and we're heading to the pub!

Hi Jonathan, Thanks for your response. Sorry but what do you mean by resetting the column? Unbolting at the UJ, removing, and re-threading through the pedal box?

Hi, My 2002 SV has never steered as well as I would like but in the last month the steering has started to feel stiff and notchy. I have noticed the car wanders a little within the lane too, which is unnerving. The combined effect is that I have had to slow down dramatically so I know something's not right. However, I can't find the issue. I have stripped the top of the column in the dash. No issues. Steering wheel spins freely when disconnected from lower column. I have jacked the front end up and moved the wheels lock to lock. Identified a squeaking sound and saw that the lower column was fouling a little on the rubber grommets on the pedal box. I couldn't adjust the angle so assumed the rubbers were dry and gave a bit of silicone grease. Sound gone. No knocking or banging noises. No hard impacts when driving to speak of. Is this likely to be the slow death of my steering rack? What are the symptoms of a steering rack on the way out? Thanks, Sam

Hi, You have mail! Thanks, Sam

Hi, are these suitable for a wide-track car please? Thanks, Sam

Slightly loose bolts + worn steering rack bushes were the issue. Thanks to everyone for the help.

Hi, yes. The car would run fine for the most part but would occasionally simply die; complete loss of electrical power and motor. Happened on a few occasions and under different conditions (lights on/lights off, over a speed bump etc.). Like I say, turned out to be a short due to corroded wiring. Can't say for sure this'll be your issue because I know very little about k-series cars and even less about Ford engined cars but perhaps a lead to investigate? Hope you get there! Best, Sam

I had a similar issue, albeit with a k-series car. Turned out to be corroded wiring running to/from starter motor and battery causing a short. Feel for you and hope you get it sorted quickly. All the best, Sam

Hello, Noticed that I had some in and out movement of the steering wheel. Checked the clamp that connects the top and bottom of the steering column. Noticed that it's possible, if the screws holding the clamp together back off a bit, for one end of the column to rotate within the other. This doesn't fill me with confidence. Has anyone done anything to address this? I am thinking of installing a second clamp or potentially drilling through both the overlapping sections and installing a dowel/bolt?

Hi, I have removed the heater matrix from my car and suspect I may need a new one. Only model I can find online is from a Mini. Will this fit a 2002 SV; I have read conflicting reports. Link to the item: http://www.motoradsonline.co.uk/products/Caterham-7-Heater-matrix.html Thanks, Sam

I have a set on my car. I can confirm that you have to be accurate with your measurements - John had to print up a second iteration for me (very kindly). The mounts work really well and have stabilised the mirrors - no more guesswork! I fitted the Motamecs without any issue. Great solution.

I have a set on my SV. Highly recommend!

Hi, I have 2002 SV with the Girling T156015S MC. I want to upgrade but want to go via the OE supplier rather than Caterham Parts, who want nearly 400 quid (https://caterhamparts.co.uk/master-cylinder/29-brake-master-cylinder-13-16-all-de-dion-cars.html?search_query=77176&results=3) Any ideas who manufactures these now? AP? Thanks, Sam

Hi, Has anyone got an SV hood bag for sale please? Thanks, Sam

Hi, thanks for replies. The bleed tee and extremely slow filling seems to have done the trick. The car is now running significantly cooler - around 70C - and the temp stabilises at idle, even after a decent run. I am a bit concerned by the low coolant temp but better than hot! I have attached a pic of the location of the bleed tee; not perfect as I didn't have the space to install above the heater valve but apparently effective anyway. One thing to note is that holding a steady throttle at idle no longer affects the temp. Therefore, perhaps I had a small airlock/air bubble all along and by applying throttle, and circulating more coolant more quickly, I was able to negate the effects? I am going to do some more rigorous testing ahead of Le Mans Classic in a few weeks, where I am sure we'll get stuck in some serious traffic. *Apologies for the strange angle of the photo - not sure why the forum has rotated the image?

Hi Andrew, I am not sure what radiator is on the car so have taken a couple of pics: Best, Sam

Thanks all. I have been taking readings from the gauge and OB readouts and looking for trends within rather than between. So I am happy that I have 2 consistent baselines to work from. I have now replaced the thermostat with a brand new, and tested, 88 degree stat with a 3mm hole drilled in the top. I have installed a bleed valve at the heater matrix end of the system, as high as I can get it. I have replaced the expansion tank cap. I have flushed the coolant and replaced with new. I have refilled and done my best to re-bleed the system with the front of the car in the air. Still, the car runs about 10 degrees hotter than it used to - around 88-92C now compared to 80C previously. The temp will increase from this point when stationary or with no throttle input. However, on most occasions, if I hold a steady throttle at idle the temps will drop by 10 degrees rapidly. This is still puzzling me as I suspected a sticky thermostat, which has now been ruled out. This, I think leaves the pump, a blockage, or I still have a flipping air lock!

Hi, Brand new cap on the expansion tank so can hopefully rule that out. Bit of a breakthrough...if I hold a steady throttle input when the temp rises at idle I can bring temps down to normal operating range within 20 seconds. That implies the coolant isn't circulating fast enough on its own so I think I am narrowing the issue down to thermostat or water pump. Thanks for all advice. It's getting there!