Dan R Posted January 3, 2023 Share Posted January 3, 2023 Would anyone know what the size is for the drain plug as i am looking to replace it with a magnetic one. Additionally if anyone has already done this, have there been any issues with clearance against the tunnel and length of the replacement plug? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted January 3, 2023 Share Posted January 3, 2023 It should already be a magnetic plug, as far as I know. Mine is and always has been. The drain is OK in terms of clearance but be careful with the fill plug if you use a ratchet. It is quite possible to wind it out far enough to wedge the Allen key/plug against the tunnel and if you're using a ratchet you can't go back. Also, the hexagons in the two plugs are different for some unknown reason. One is 3/8", the other 10mm. I'm not sure if the actual threads are also imperial/metric, presumably they are but I've never checked. I use a cut down piece of 10mm Allen key about 20mm long for the 10mm hex and another bit of the same partly ground down to .375" for the other. I can then use the same 300mm long M10 spanner to undo both. Once they're cracked they come out fairly easily with fingers on the hexagons, or I use an open ended M10. My car is an SV so I may have a little more room. Be careful not to wind out too far with a ratchet ring! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan R Posted January 3, 2023 Author Share Posted January 3, 2023 That's really helpful, thank you. I had read that the fill and drain were different sizes (I mean why wouldn't they be!)Mine is an SV too so hopefully there will be enough room to reach the fill plug. I have read elsewhere that a stubby allen key works well, but i also like your idea of the piece of hex and a long 10mm spanner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted January 3, 2023 Share Posted January 3, 2023 You're welcome! Can be done with a stubby Allen as long as when it's fitted the angle is OK for getting leverage, if necessary with a pipe. The long ratchet ring gives more flexibility that way I've changed my box oil quite a few times now and find the long ring spanner the best way. I got it from eBay for a tenner.Make sure you have cracked the fill plug before draining. You wouldn't want to drain and then find you can't remove the fill, should you need to take the car anywhere! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted January 3, 2023 Share Posted January 3, 2023 The 6-sp drain plug (10mm hex) is indeed magnetic . This was mine prior to a box rebuild:And I second the long ring-spanner method for the filler plug (3/8" hex).JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan R Posted January 3, 2023 Author Share Posted January 3, 2023 Thank you for your replies and advice. That really helpful ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted January 3, 2023 Share Posted January 3, 2023 #5. Yes, that looks like rebuild level wear!!When I was looking for long ring spanners I couldn't find a decent, long enough, 3/8" one, that's why I bought the 10mm and made a piece of 10mm Allen key into a 10mm/.375" by grinding a few thou' off each face. I did it freehand and it took me a couple of goes to get a perfect fit into the socket but it works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted January 3, 2023 Share Posted January 3, 2023 #7: Yes, that looks like rebuild level wear!!It certainly was, after 13 years and 49K miles of abuse. Phil Stewart was quite impressed with the rubbish the plug had trapped, including this bit of shim: ...which escaped from here:JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 3, 2023 Share Posted January 3, 2023 Pretty sure the 6sp drain plug and K dry sump plug is the same as the Sierra diff fill plug - I have 3 of them on my seven :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan R Posted January 3, 2023 Author Share Posted January 3, 2023 I have to say, looking at it from the outside, it does look suspiciously like the Sierra diff plug!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamC Posted January 3, 2023 Share Posted January 3, 2023 Has anyone put a hole in the side of the tunnel to allow direct access to the fill/drain plug? Then you could come in through the footwell and re seal once done?Im considering doing it while my engine and box is out, hence the question... Mine has a hole for the reverse switch, but not the plugs which seem much more useful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted January 3, 2023 Share Posted January 3, 2023 I've never done that because it's a pretty straightforward job to change from underneath but I think there may be a chassis rail just where you don't want it........You have to get the car up and get under it to drain in any case and with the ubiquitous Sealey TP6804, or similar, filling is an easy, if a little tedious, task. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Englishmaninwales Posted January 3, 2023 Share Posted January 3, 2023 #11 Yes I cut a circular hole in the footwell for the filler when I was running a 6 speed GB a few years back. It is possible to fill using it but I recall it was still a PITA to do! Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted January 4, 2023 Area Representative Share Posted January 4, 2023 With a Type 9 GB cutting a fill plug access hole in the passenger side tunnel skin is a must UNLESS the chassis is a later type - probably just prior to the swop to the 'Warminster' chassis was carried out - 1999/2000? After that point there is a chassis diagonal in the way.I would guess that a hole may be cut in the drivers side to access a 6 speeder fill plug but again from memory there are chassis bars in the way. The 6 speeder drain plug is too low for access holes & dangerously adjacent to a longitudinal chassis bar.Advice not to get the Allen Key stuck up against the chassis bar are true. It happened to me when draining my six speeder. After breaking the stick the ratchet ring being used was allowed to ratchet back too far so I had no give to extract key stub & spanner combo. Had to Dremel the Allen Key off !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 4, 2023 Member Share Posted January 4, 2023 As a fellow victim of the ratchet trap...... there are two types of ratchet spanner. The problem only occurs with the type where you turn the spanner over to go the other way! With the type that has a lever you flick the lever and send the key stub back homeward to think again.: - )Happy New YearJonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted January 4, 2023 Share Posted January 4, 2023 I have no problem filling my 6-sp gearbox the old-fashioned way:It takes a while, but warming the oil helps.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 4, 2023 Share Posted January 4, 2023 I have had a 5sp and 6sp gearbox in my Arch S3 and never had a problem with filling / checking / topping up the gear oil. I use a cut down allen key and piece of tube (extra leverage). Once its lose I use both index fingers to turn it. It does help if you go under the car from the opposite side to the fill plug then your fingers are working in the direction they usually bend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amos91 Posted January 4, 2023 Share Posted January 4, 2023 The drain plug on the 6 speed gearbox... Does anyone know the size of the dowty washer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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